continually adjusting clutch cable

[peter small]

Kiderminster motorcycles

[peter small]

Clutch has just arrived by courier full clutch including push rod hardened one end so you can cut it and harden to correct length.
A primary case gasket
All for the price of £295.00 inc delivery

Just waiting for the 6 spring locking plate to arrive

All good fun

[chaterlea25]

HI Peter,
I'm presuming "4 spring locking plate" not 6??

I dont bother with them, some threadlock on the threads is a better bet
I dont know if you read the guide I wrote on the fitting of primary drive parts,? its not always straightforward
Heres a link to it
http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=9646.msg70166;topicseen#msg70166

Happy Christmas
John

[peter small]

John

I already have a 4 spring locking ring, its getting the 6 spring off i dont have spare plates to diy one and i dont want to ruin the 6 springer so ordered one not dear
just makes the job easier.
Thanks for the link very interesting i will certainly check alignment.
The kit has locking washers roller bearings x 20 new nut and washer.
The engine has a new chain and drive sprocket so no need to change just adjustment needed.
I am sure i have seen a better oil  seal carrier behind the clutch but i dont know who sells them any ideas.

Happy Christmas

Pete

[chaterlea25]

Hi Pete,
Ooops my misreading of your post, 
Usually the six spring centre nuts are not tight ?? theres always a first time though
In the photos you can see my home made locking tool,
Phil Pearson the Goldie Guru makes a sliding plate with a bush and seal,
But, I think these are designed to work with his own clutch ?? Not sure on this?

There are several ways to improve the sealing on the sliding plate,
I have made a few different versions which are a definite improvement on the original

SRM sell a felt ring that fits between the adaptor and sliding plate ??

An improved oil resistant foam seal can replace the big felt, ( which always leaked profusely on mine)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-GOLD-STAR-B31-B33-A7-A10-PRIMARY-CHAIN-CASE-IMPROVED-SEAL-42-7504-/172034761152?hash=item280e1221c0:g:wj8AAOxyYANTYklW

I saw a post somewhere pointing out a very possible leak path between the two parts of the sliding plate
a run of sealer around the joint will help a bit there
A "perfect" seal at the sliding plate will then require a case breather

HTH
John

[peter small]

Seal on order
A question while i have the primary to bits has anyone fitted a larger engine sprocket i believe 21 teeth is standard. 19 T for side car use.
I would probably go for a one tooth increase.
If you have what advantages or disadvantages in doing it or should i leave well alone.

Pete

[chaterlea25]

Hi Peter,
My experience is that an increase to 22 (or 23 teeth on the Super Rocket) is well worthwhile
Going back to my guide these sprockets can come with varying width shoulders which affect sprocket alignment
This may help or hinder the alignment 
Is anything straightforward  

John

[BSA_54A10]

Out of curosity exactly how are you hardening the tip of the pushrod ?

[peter small]

No problem
I have a professional plumbers torch a  Rothenberger Torch runs on propane which takes the rod end up to a bright cherry red. i then quench in oil , i did temper the first one to a light straw colour but on the second attempt i didn't bother.
I have seen people quench in water but thats a bit severe can cause chipping as the end although hard become brittle.

Its also very good at heating up casings to remove bearing etc. isn't bad at soldering plumbing fitting either.

Pete

[BSA_54A10]

OK Pete,
Try this.
Heat about a 1/2" of the rod to bright red.
Count to 20 then quench in oil
When cold, try to sratch the end with a file or stanley knife blade.
If you can scratch it it is not hard

Once satisified it is hard, polish the rod clean then heat the rod about 1 to 1.5" away from the tip and back temper to brown/blue

[peter small]

Trevor
I will bear in mind that hardening process when i harden the new rod for the 4 spring  clutch , however my next stumbling block is the 6 spring clutch adaptor on the gearbox shaft why they didn't use the same principle as Triumph and use an internal thread beats me i have 3 of those various sizes.
I dont really want to buy an extractor just to use it once, my mates dont have one so i am scratching my head again must not  damage the shaft.

Anyone got an idea i have spare 3 leg pullers i can customize. just a thought can use heat


Pete

[chaterlea25]

Hi Peter,
A gearbox sprocket nut from a C11 four speed will thread onto the centre,
then the 3 legged puller can be used

Just another bit of random BSA info
John

[BSA_54A10]

I have a small bearing seperator that will go behind the clutch hub then it is out with the rattle gun.
Because of the jerky nature of rattle guns they generally will pull anything off no problems.
Quite by accident a long time ago, being lazy I used the rattle gun to tighten the hub puller and low & behold, the hub just popped off.
So the hub tool which is really only meant to be a preloader, actually pulls the hubs off.

[peter small]

Good suggestions all round thought i would give it a gentle tap half time in the football  with the hide hammer. you guessed it fell off.
Great joy

Now for drive sprocket and nut removal

Pete

[peter small]

Clutch is on, easy job i didn't fit the tab washer as advised loctite and torqued to 65 ft ibs.
Unfortunately the levers i bought the cam adjuster doesn't fit replacement on the way,
new clutch cable. nothing of the old 6 spring set up left.
22T engine sprocket next job hope it all lines up does with the standard 21T. chain is new pretty new.

I just hope it all works out