Oil change A10 '57'

[Padsta33]

Having recently acquired my 1st BSA (a Gold flash) I would like to change the fluids. Can anyone recommend the correct engine oil and gear oil.
And the best place online to purchase such.

Paddy.

[morris]

Ouch... here we go on another oil thread... 

I am extremely happy with Penrite's 20/60 classic light for the engine and Penrite's Gear Box 30 for the box.
For the Primary, use the lightest oil you can find (I use ISO 32 Hydraulic oil) or else use an ATF
Just google Penrite and you'll find plenty dealers.

[Topdad]

Without inline file use a mono @ sae 30 or 40 which can be used in the g/box .These engines are designed to keep the crap in suspension which is dropped in the sludge trap on the crank or settles in the tank .It's always a good idea to clean the tank before refilling you'll be surprised how much sludge and crap builds up . Don't want to start an "oil thread "( have I ) but there as been  a lot of discussion about using special g/box oil something bearing on bronze bushes and sulphur but I use engine oils and it works. If you have filter you could use multi grade ,hope that helps, Bob

[Greybeard]

I thought the argument that three different oils allows you to see which component is leaking is a good idea. I have an in-line filter on the return from the engine and still use SAE40 from Morrisons. http://www.premierlubricants.co.uk/morris-golden-film-sae-40-classic-motor-oil.html
I use SAE 90 in the gearbox and ATF fluid in the primary.

[Padsta33]

I figured this would bring a few options, I appologies if this has been written about before. I always use too use Morris 40, in all my other classics in the past. So may stick with that. Should I remove the oil tank to clean, and what's the best way too clean her out?
Cheers
Paddy.

[Topdad]

From personal experience I'd say yes, when I did mine I was sure it was spotless only to find loads of grud losened once new oil and some vibration set in, Bob, ps some people steam 'em ,I just used paraffin a good stiff brush and an assortment of thin long screw drivers ,then prolonged rinsing out .

[terryg]

Definitely remove the tank.  If you have a pressure washer it can help, after putting some solvent in the tank, but it's messy!
If your tank is rust free inside it's easier. There are also forum threads with good suggestions for cleaning up corroded tanks.

[stu.andrews]

Engine oil will depend on the engine's history. If recently rebuilt & NO sludge in the sludge trap, then a multigrade such as 20/50 would be fine, although might "wet sump" a bit more. If an in line filter is fitted, then a multigrade can be used. Otherwise a straight 40 or even a straight 50 in the hotter weather. In the primary, an ATF is good & due to it's colour, any leaks are colour coded! Gearbox- use a straight 50 grade. Clean out the oil tank by removal, paraffin & thorough drying, not forgetting the oil tank gauze.
Happy biking!

[Padsta33]

Thank you, great info and advice. Think it's recently been worked on, and it's certainly oil tight all round. I shan't be riding her until April/May when the show season begins, and only for local plodding. Maybe it would be overkill to fully service, cos I recon fluids have been prob done in last 12-18 months. (Without many miles ridden) and is starting on 1st kick, running really smooth.