Author Topic: A10 new restoration, ID engine & frame  (Read 3217 times)

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
A10 new restoration, ID engine & frame
« on: 02.04. 2016 12:16 »
Im new to the forum and am about to start this new project .

I just got an A10 last week end and intend a full restoration.

Im sure this is the first of many questions

Firstly I would like to know what I have ..registered as a 1958 A10 .

The engine number seems a bit jumbled [is this normal ?]
CA10 RR 3052   under that its stamped HHC.

THIS WAS SOLD AS A RUNNING BIKE BUT i HAVENT STARTED IT AND iM TOLD IT SMOKES .

Any help would be great.
 

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #1 on: 02.04. 2016 16:19 »

 Hiya Polly, my guess is it's at least a Road rocket maybe S/R(?) pretending to be a kind of RGS...dunno if that tanks is rgs, or just a long range which with those bars makes me think you could be in the USofA *dunno* ?
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6387
  • Karma: 55
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #2 on: 02.04. 2016 16:19 »
Polly,

Welcome to the forum. *welcome* That's a nice project you've acquired. 

Based on CA10 RR 3052, I would take it that the cases are from a '56 Road Rocket. Looking at the various engine and frame number lists, including from BSAOCUK, there is no reference to "RR". I am making a leap and assuming that "R" and "RR" are interchangeable. There has been some discussion of this here on the forum, with one explanation being that BSA used "RR" for export models (maybe thinking, it's more "Road Rockety" for the the unwashed masses, like me). Someone here might have the definitive answer. I suspect and hope they will chime in to correct me if needed.

That bike has some nice and, I assume, original parts on it, like the Altette horn, the brass tach drive, etc. It also seems to have a bowl extender on the monobloc carb. That and the cafe tank lead me think that one of the previous owners liked to ride her real fast. Not saying that's a bad thing. I am interested in knowing if that tank was an option offered by BSA or an aftermarket part of the period. Someone?

I am making a wild assumption you are somewhere on Earth. Would you mind sharing a slightly more specific locale?

Looking forward to your story of getting her started and fun with the restoration.

Richard L.

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #3 on: 02.04. 2016 16:32 »
Hi Richard,

Thanks for the welcome

Im in London U/K

The tank is fiberglass and I was supplied with the original steel tank .

I shall attempt to start it tomorrow and get an idea of what it may need. I intend to get it running and fix whatever the motor needs first then strip it down to polish/ paint.

The bike appears to be complete and comes with a lot of spare bits.   

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6387
  • Karma: 55
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #4 on: 02.04. 2016 16:41 »
Hi Polly,

As I said, looking forward to your first-start story.

I went back and checked the engine numbers and amended my guess to a '56 Road Rocket. If the bike has lived in the UK all it's life, there goes the speculation about "RR" numbers being for export.

Richard L.

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #5 on: 02.04. 2016 17:12 »

 I may be wrong, but think my '58 RR had CA10RR engine- too long ago now.

 Polly, Without knowing how much A10 experience you have, I don't wanna tell you how to suck eggs, but if you haven't already done it, might be worth taking the sump plate off for a looksee before startup ? Don't forget to put a catch pan under *eek*, should I reckon have about 150ml / 6oz drain out , if more than that, it has wet-sumped.

 PS, if you do know how to suck eggs, I'd be interested in knowing another useless trick  *dunno*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #6 on: 02.04. 2016 17:20 »
DuTch,

Thanks for the tip   ,I will do that   I guess Im looking for what ? metal particles ?

Offline metalflake11

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 678
  • Karma: 9
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #7 on: 02.04. 2016 17:58 »
DuTch,

Thanks for the tip   ,I will do that   I guess Im looking for what ? metal particles ?

Some A10's tend to leak past the oil pump and fill the sump with oil, and when you start the bike it smokes until the scavenge pipe removes the excess. Hopefully that's the only reason it smokes in the first place!
England N.W
1960 A10
England

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6387
  • Karma: 55
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #8 on: 02.04. 2016 18:10 »
If it has quite a bit of oil in the sump it will blow it out the breather hole located at the rear of the left case just behind the primary cover. This will leave a big mess on the floor or pavement. Also, yes, you will be looking for any metal bits, particularly thin stips (or what was once thin strips) from wasted crank spacing shims. If you find these, don't bother starting up, as it means a tear down. Depending on the type of sump plate you have you're going to need one or two replacement gaskets. One if it's pressed steel, two if it's billet aluminum. You can make these yourself, of course.

Richard L.

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #9 on: 02.04. 2016 19:05 »
I have charged a battery that was supplied with the bike .
Im going to spend tomorrow trying to start it and will update on my findings

Online KiwiGF

  • Last had an A10 in 1976, in 2011 it was time for my 2nd one. It was the project from HELL (but I learned a lot....)
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Feb 2011
  • Posts: 1940
  • Karma: 17
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #10 on: 02.04. 2016 20:48 »
Hello and welcome, the frame number would also help identify the bike, but to BSA the engine was used more to describe the exact model.

The more tuned A10s like the road rocket are more desirable to most (read more valuable!).

You won't need a battery to get it started as you have the normal self contained magneto by the look of it. It would start with no battery.

It's good practice to check the oil is returning to the sump after it starts, although another option is push the bike in gear with the plugs out until you see oil returning.

Be prepared to have the bike off the road a long time if you start taking it apart! Once you start and start finding things wrong *problem* you'll just keep going......until you have the ubiquitous "basket case)  *help*

Good luck!
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6387
  • Karma: 55
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #11 on: 02.04. 2016 23:13 »
Polly,

If you're the kind who doesn't mind a little help in person, and if you think it would indeed help, I believe we have forum members in or near London who would gladly volunteer to show up for the startup. I might be a bit too far away to personally participate.

Richard L.


Offline terryg

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Nov 2012
  • Posts: 565
  • Karma: 6
    • thecarshipenterprise
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #12 on: 03.04. 2016 07:43 »
Very nice little project, Polly. Good advice already coming your way, I see.

Welcome to possibly the best mech/tech forum I know, it's helped me many times.
Terry
'57 'SR', '59 SR, '63 RGS

Online Brian

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: May 2007
  • Posts: 1806
  • Karma: 43
  • Mt Gambier, South Australia.
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #13 on: 03.04. 2016 08:02 »
Polly I just noticed you said

"I have charged a battery that was supplied with the bike .
Im going to spend tomorrow trying to start it and will update on my findings"

I was just wondering if you are familiar with bikes fitted with magneto's ? You dont need a battery to start your bike. If you are not familiar with magneto's there are a few things you should check and do before you try to start the bike.

Online Klaus

  • Valued Contributor
  • ****
  • Join Date: Jun 2015
  • Posts: 439
  • Karma: 10
Re: A10 new restoration
« Reply #14 on: 03.04. 2016 08:40 »
Hi Polly,

And a welcome from Germany *welcome*

The bike looks greate and I gues you have much fun roaring open  roads when the bike is runing.
It looks like a RGS with its outfit, the steel tank comes with the 4 inch Goldstar  Badge.
It seems there is no much work to do get it on the road.

cheers Klaus


If you think, everything is under control, you are not fast enought.

BSA DB34 Goldstar, BSA A10 Road Rocked, BSA A7 Shooting Star, BSA M33, BSA M24, Kawa W650