Author Topic: Clutch sleeve ID  (Read 1068 times)

Offline Peter in Aus

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Clutch sleeve ID
« on: 25.04. 2016 10:04 »
Hi all, Having trouble fitting my 6 spring clutch sleeve to my A10 SA 58, I fitted one of SRM sprocket nuts with the seal in it and now the sleeve hits the nut seal before in seats on the taper and I am wondering if I have the wrong sleeve. When I got the bike the clutch was striped out and some of the parts were missing. I picked up some parts from some of my mates around the traps, so not sure if it is the right sleeve.
I also noticed that when I checked the primary chain that the alignment was about 3/16" out, the clutch chain wheel was to far in.
I see Draganfly has two sleeves listed 42-3017 for A10 SA and 65-3873 B31 SA that look the same and I think I may have the B31 sleeve.
can any one tell me how to identify the difference in them, please.
Cheers
Peter

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #1 on: 25.04. 2016 11:28 »
Peter,
BSA made all their own gearboxes.
With a few exception they all had the same tapper on the main shaft so there are dozens of them.
The only sure way is to measure the diameter of the holes at both ends of the mainshaft hole.
It is one of the things where BSA parts books are often wrong.
Any model that had both a tin & an alloy primary, used 2 different clutch sleeves as the alloy chaincases needed more clearence so the clutch & sprocket were moved slightly further out.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #2 on: 25.04. 2016 12:49 »
The only sure way is to measure the diameter of the holes at both ends of the mainshaft hole.

Thanks Trevor for getting back to me.
I'm a bit thick! I don't understand how that  can identify the sleeves but from what you are saying I might have a sleeve from a tin primary case so I think I will just order a new one for that model and hope it fixes the problem.
Cheers
Peter 

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline trevinoz

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #3 on: 25.04. 2016 22:21 »
From experience new ones don't fix the problem. There are some about which have the taper not quite right which then has the clutch too far out.

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #4 on: 26.04. 2016 00:38 »
Ummmmmm looks like I going to have fun, have ordered new one so will keep you posted.
Peter

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #5 on: 27.04. 2016 09:25 »
Every one I have bought in the last few years have been the alloy chaincase type that have smaller holes so they sit further out on the mainshaft.
When fitted to my tin primary ( M20 not A10 ) they all foul on the outer cover.
The hole in the middle is tappered so the bigger it is the further it sits on the tapper on the mainshaft.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #6 on: 27.04. 2016 13:24 »
Thanks Trevor. I hope the one I get sits out at least 3/16" more, It will be a week or two before I get it so will post the results when I get it. *smiley4*
Peter

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline trevinoz

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #7 on: 27.04. 2016 22:43 »
Peter, the one that you have is probably for a single. I will see if I have one in the shed and photograph it and post so you can compare. Once you know the difference they are easy to identify.

Offline trevinoz

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #8 on: 27.04. 2016 23:47 »
Peter, here's the two sleeves.
The first is for a single, the second a twin.
Note the area above the scroll.
The single type has a square section while the twin is scalloped.
The twin is cut away to clear the sliding plate as it goes further on the shaft.

Offline trevinoz

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #9 on: 27.04. 2016 23:50 »
Reading your first post again, you say that the chainwheel is in too far. Could it be that the engine sprocket is out too far?

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #10 on: 28.04. 2016 01:27 »
Hi Trev, yes it is a possibility that the engine sprocket is out to far, will have to look at that, it seems that the sleeve is the right one looking at your photos so will have to wait and see when new one arrives if there is any difference.
Have attached pic of my sleeve. 

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Online chaterlea25

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #11 on: 28.04. 2016 22:57 »
Hi Peter,
Quote
can any one tell me how to identify the difference in them, please.

How far does the threaded end of the mainshaft protrude through the sleeve?

http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=9646.msg70166;topicseen#msg70166

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #12 on: 29.04. 2016 00:31 »
Thanks for that John, that post is very helpful.
The thread is sticking out .770in that is quite a bit more than showing on yours so hopefully the new one (when I get it) will be better. *smile*

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #13 on: 05.05. 2016 03:24 »
Well the new clutch sleeve arrived yesterday and sits out a lot more now, in fact the sprockets seem to line up OK, so that is good, "BUT" the new clutch sleeve has a cut away in the center of the taper and is only just or not engaging the taper on the shaft at the end, why they have done this is a mystery to me maybe some can tell me why they done it? Could it be a mistake in machining? See pic
I think it will be OK when dun up but it is one of those things that sit on your mind all the time! *conf2*
What are your thoughts?
Peter

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: Clutch sleeve ID
« Reply #14 on: 05.05. 2016 14:48 »
You have been supplied an M20 one for use with a tin primary.
The parallel porton takes a cork tube to seal against the sliding plate.
AFAIK not used on A group twins.
Bike Beesa
Trevor