Author Topic: A10 new restoration, Engine  (Read 5350 times)

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #45 on: 20.06. 2016 17:02 »
In deed there must be Beeza.

I thought at first I would just enlarge the slot but then considered the importance of it being there.

no way do I ever want fuel dripping on a mag.

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #46 on: 20.06. 2016 17:57 »
Seems there are two .

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #47 on: 21.06. 2016 18:22 »
Tried again this afternoon to put the rocker box on ..

just not enough room to get it in place with out hitting the pushrods.

Could it be this non a 10 frame ?

I will try again tomorrow but this time remove an adjusting cover stud to see if I can get another half inch clearance.

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #48 on: 21.06. 2016 18:57 »
Tried again this afternoon to put the rocker box on ..
just not enough room to get it in place with out hitting the pushrods.
The box will need to push the rods around before it's in position.
Quote
Could it be this non a 10 frame ?
I will try again tomorrow but this time remove an adjusting cover stud to see if I can get another half inch clearance.
I don't know if this applies to you; on the Plunger one of the rocker cover studs has flats so it can be removed to facilitate removal and replacement of the rocker box. I don't think it's possible without removing that stud.
Once you have the rocker box on the engine:
It seems that unless you have very long, slim and flexible fingers, (or you have a large pet spider, which seems possible in the Antipodes) you will struggle with rocker box refitting. Some say, it gets easier with practice. All I know is, he's called the Frig!
Just don't bolt it down hard until you are sure they are all in their cups.

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #49 on: 21.06. 2016 19:02 »
Understood greybeard.
Im hoping removal of the stud will do it.

Find out in the morning .I want to get this engine started

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #50 on: 21.06. 2016 19:14 »
Understood greybeard.
Im hoping removal of the stud will do it.
Find out in the morning .I want to get this engine started
It helps if you can calm down and take your time. A tip from others here is to use rubber bands stretched over the box and around the rocker arms so the cupped ends are presented to the pushrods. With the bike on the centre stand and the plugs out I put the bike in fourth gear so I can turn the engine over a bit using one hand on the back wheel and with the other hand I can feel the rockers starting to move. I do find though that the flippin pushrods seem quite happy to sit on the edge of the cup so be careful!

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #51 on: 21.06. 2016 19:24 »
Yes by far the trickiest thing yet .

i have thick fingers and not the best eyesight but luckily patience.

Then the gaskets keep displacing too ..

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #52 on: 21.06. 2016 21:08 »
Then the gaskets keep displacing too ..
I glue my gaskets to one side only using Blue Hylomar. I then bolt the rocker box down with no pushrods using only four of the bolts. This makes sure the gaskets are firmly pressed in place until the BH sets. When I'm ready to finally fit the rocker box I can apply BH to the other surfaces.

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #53 on: 22.06. 2016 16:51 »
Well after numerous attempts I got the rocker box on ,It was a little hook tool that helped me .What a fiddly job.

I have had to screw the intake adjusters in a lot to get the correct valve clearances  [NOT SURE WHY] I went from thin to large flange barrels and from alloy to iron head there must be a difference some where,maybe I need iron head adjusters I dont know. 

I also have 2 nuts and two shoulder bolts left over Im assuming these were on the rocker box for the alloy head [I replaced the studs and nuts to short ones]. Cant find a carb drip tray for a manual advance so ill try to alter what I have tomorrow.

The rear adjuster cover wont go on when the engine stay is in place but I can live with that.   

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #54 on: 22.06. 2016 20:18 »
Well done! After a couple of hundred miles you may want to retorque the head so you'll get more practice at fitting rocker box's. Whoopeedoo!
My tappet adjusters are also well in but I think that's due to me fitting a camshaft that's been reprofiled from a worn camshaft. *doubt*

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #55 on: 23.06. 2016 07:56 »
Beeza.

I think this is a manual advance/retard carb tray on ebay uk right now

eBay item number:
131045490173


To expensive for me.

Offline Beeza

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #56 on: 23.06. 2016 08:53 »
Hi polly, ebay item is not correct but wow it is expensive, that's about $85 aus with post. I'm going to try my hand at making one.
My iron head A10 has lash caps fitted to the top of the valve stems which brings the adjusters out a bit further.
Thanks Thomas

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #57 on: 23.06. 2016 08:59 »
Lash caps .....yes that sounds like a good fix .Are they readily available ?

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #58 on: 23.06. 2016 09:25 »
...I got the rocker box on ,It was a little hook tool that helped me .What a fiddly job.
The Aerial Huntmaster has the A10 engine with small differences. There is a plug, about the same size as the primary case oil filler cap in the top centre of the rocker box. This must make pushrods location easier. I'm not positive but I think it's possible to fit the Aerial box to the Beeza.
Ah, I've just remembered, the swinging arm models have the head steady fixed to the top of the rocker box so just ignore my suggestion.  *shh*

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #59 on: 23.06. 2016 09:57 »
Would the mushroom type [allen headed] adjusters work better I wonder .very little hex head left to adjust on the intakes ?