Author Topic: A10 new restoration, Engine  (Read 5351 times)

Online duTch

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #60 on: 24.06. 2016 10:12 »

 
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Would the mushroom type [allen headed] adjusters work better I wonder .very little hex head left to adjust on the intakes ?

 I have socket head adjuster grub screws fitted (grub screws really), and they are also close to the limit. I also had my cam ground, so maybe that's the bottom line *dunno*
 The 'lash caps' are a good idea I think lonstroke A7's have them (?), I have them on a Lister diesel engine.

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The Aerial Huntmaster has the A10 engine with small differences. There is a plug, about the same size as the primary case oil filler cap in the top centre of the rocker box. This must make pushrods location easier. I'm not positive but I think it's possible to fit the Aerial box to the Beeza.
   
 I saw one of these at a swap last year, and it had I think a single central holding fixture for each inspection cover, so maybe even more prone to leaking *dunno*

 
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I glue my gaskets to one side only using Blue Hylomar. I then bolt the rocker box down with no pushrods using only four of the bolts. This makes sure the gaskets are firmly pressed in place until the BH sets. When I'm ready to finally fit the rocker box I can apply BH to the other surfaces.

  I'm with GB here, but I did the
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... .......... I can apply BH to the other surfaces.
at the same time using 3Bond, with some silicon grease on the head surface. Has started to seep a bit after ~9K miles, but due to on/off a couple of times early on


Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #61 on: 24.06. 2016 11:13 »
Is this oil going to work ?

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #62 on: 24.06. 2016 14:45 »
Slowly but surly Im getting there.

Bodywork all fits

Electrics this afternoon [if it ever stops raining]

Where does this vent get routed on the top of the oil tank ?

Cant run it as I have only just noticed I need short reach plugs.

So until I get them I can start polishing and touching up paint work.

Offline a101960

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #63 on: 24.06. 2016 16:24 »
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Where does this vent get routed on the top of the oil tank ?
Just connect a piece of pipe that simpley route it down vertically.

Offline nimrod650

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #64 on: 24.06. 2016 21:05 »
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Where does this vent get routed on the top of the oil tank ?
Just connect a piece of pipe that simpley route it down vertically.
could the oil tank be vented into the primary chaincase i have an inner pimary case with a 5/16 threaded hole on the top above the clutch *????*

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #65 on: 25.06. 2016 00:02 »
 
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could the oil tank be vented into the primary chaincase i have an inner pimary case with a 5/16 threaded hole on the top above the clutch *????*

 You could, but would still need to vent the chaincase or it may pressurize too *eek*

 I think better to vent them both into a vented bottle behind the G'box and crankcase breather also- I use a 500ml square plastic juice bottle
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #66 on: 25.06. 2016 11:53 »
So other than the drip tray problem I have another problem, The advance/retard cable ,It has to take an extreme bend under the carb bowl .

I am beginning to wonder if the iron head ever could of come with a manual   a/r mag.

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #67 on: 25.06. 2016 12:08 »
this is the bend needed for the cable...a bit extreme I think

Offline shuswapkev

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #68 on: 25.06. 2016 13:56 »
has anybody ever welded one of these up???

my head guy replaces the valve seats for $25 each for 4 ...  maybe have the seat cut out...v out the crack  weld and replace the valve seat...

bit of work  ...but...

hate to see it go in the bin...

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #69 on: 25.06. 2016 21:56 »
G'day polly.
As far as I know it was only the alloy head models that had the manual advance. These heads have a bit more of a downdraft which places the carb a little higher.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR, '76 XT500, '77 AG175 '83 CB1100F, '81 CB900F project.
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Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #70 on: 28.06. 2016 13:55 »
Started it today
Big old backfire ,then I swapped the plug leads and she leapt into live.

May be third kick. oil flowing as it should no leaks anywhere. I couldn't resist riding her around the communal garden area until told off.

Boy this is a powerful bike . I have to finish the electrics but cant wait to get her out on the open road .....

I am really jazzed right now.

Thank you to all that helped me do this .

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #71 on: 28.06. 2016 14:55 »
 *woo*

Online TT John

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #72 on: 28.06. 2016 15:07 »
Slowly but surly Im getting there.

Bodywork all fits

Electrics this afternoon [if it ever stops raining]

Where does this vent get routed on the top of the oil tank ?

Cant run it as I have only just noticed I need short reach plugs.

So until I get them I can start polishing and touching up paint work.



Polly, surely if that's a alloy head, you will need long reach plugs, not short reach.

TTJohn

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #73 on: 28.06. 2016 15:10 »
I converted to iron head TT John .    not without its problems I can tell you .

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #74 on: 30.06. 2016 17:53 »
When I changed the oil before starting her up I found these two slithers of very thin aluminium on the drain plug  magnet under the mesh . They are wafer thin , No other debris or dirt on the mesh nor the tank filter.