Author Topic: A10 new restoration, Engine  (Read 7475 times)

Online muskrat

  • Global Moderator
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • **
  • Join Date: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 10760
  • Karma: 130
  • Lithgow NSW Oz
    • Shoalhaven Classic Motorcycle Club Inc
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #15 on: 17.04. 2016 18:52 »
G'day Polly.
Bugga. it will need to be crack tested properly to see how far the crack goes. If it doesn't reach the valve seat it could be tig welded.
Why would anyone have to enlarge that hole??
A swap to an iron head will mean the carb will sit a bit lower and flat (not angled down) and different tappet clearances. No big deal, just make sure there's no step in the port from carb to manifold.
Cheers.
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #16 on: 07.05. 2016 09:07 »
Well what an expencive repair on the head. [400 pounds]

Needed a new seat and one oversided valve guide.

It had been welded before [badly].It will be weeks before I get it back so Im going to push on and get the pistons and barrels fitted.

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #17 on: 07.05. 2016 10:37 »

 Eeeew- that's about `800 bills in my $$..Hope it all works out (I'm sure it will), using the Iron Head in the meantime is not such a bad idea, and you'l get to enjoy the bike and while not ideal at least have a comparison *conf*

 Hey Richard, from your reply # 46 P.4,
Quote
...........  I followed the Haynes manual rather carefully. Problem is, as far as I have seen, the Haynes manual never mentions or shows the sludge trap, so I didn't know about it and, therefore, did not clean it. About 20 miles into test rides I spun a big-end bearing with the best explanation being that stuff from the sludge trap blocked the oil hole.

Richard L.

 
 Not having a go at you by any means,I knew I'd seen something before, and I know it's been discussed before, but came across it again the other day while looking for something else, but couldn't remember where I've seen the comment most recently (until now, catchup reading).
 My '73 edition Haynes page 26, para 5, end of line 2 states; "The plugs located at each end of the crankpins should be removed so that the internal oilways can be cleaned out."
 As per photo attached.

 It's an obscure and easy to miss way of saying " there's a sludge-trap hidden in the crank behind plugs  that should be removed, so the sludge within can be removed. (just sayin' that so if anyone goes searchin', it can be found)
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #18 on: 07.05. 2016 11:54 »
The iron head was just a bare casting with valve guides so im not going to put any money in to that.

Im still hoping to get the bike done using the alloy head by summer

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #19 on: 07.05. 2016 12:37 »
looks like fate is working with me today
My barrels and pistons are ready to put on the bike and the mail man showed up with my guide to give the machine shop......
All thats needed now is motivation to get to the garage and fit the pistons/barrels.

I have had a thought tho ,Im going to take the pushrod followers and retaining pin/ball  from the thin flange to put in the thick flange ,are they the same . I already found the longer studs Im going to need around the base of the barrels

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #20 on: 07.05. 2016 12:58 »

 
Quote
Im going to take the pushrod followers and retaining pin/ball  from the thin flange to put in the thick flange ,are they the same .

 Yep all the same part numbers
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Online muskrat

  • Global Moderator
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • **
  • Join Date: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 10760
  • Karma: 130
  • Lithgow NSW Oz
    • Shoalhaven Classic Motorcycle Club Inc
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #21 on: 07.05. 2016 22:32 »
I beg to differ duTch. The screw into the top of the flange is a tad longer for the thick flange. 67-0276 thin flange, 67-0949 for the thick. No big deal, it will just sit below the surface of the flange.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #22 on: 07.05. 2016 22:53 »
Yes I found that out today. I checked the cost and a set of three with a new ball is cheap so i ordered a set  and will fit the barrels next week.

While im waiting I think I should maybe chase the head bolt threads to make sure there are clean.Anyont know what tap size I would need ?   

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #23 on: 07.05. 2016 23:29 »

Quote
I beg to differ duTch. The screw into the top of the flange is a tad longer for the thick flange. 67-0276 thin flange, 67-0949 for the thick. No big deal, it will just sit below the surface of the flange.
Cheers

 Fair call, but in my defense, parts books '49-'53, '54-'57  list it as p# 67-0276 for all 
  and 'circa '58' on> list p# 67-0276 for A7/SS, and 67-0949 for A10/SR (but I didn't look at that).

 I don't care that much just curious, I have a 1/4" grub screw in there which is far too long anyway, but the lifters haven't fallen out yet *smile* even if it is probably BSF *bash*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline trevinoz

  • Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia.
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jul 2006
  • Posts: 3184
  • Karma: 71
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #24 on: 08.05. 2016 00:02 »
Head bolts SHOULD be 3/8" BSF.

Online muskrat

  • Global Moderator
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • **
  • Join Date: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 10760
  • Karma: 130
  • Lithgow NSW Oz
    • Shoalhaven Classic Motorcycle Club Inc
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #25 on: 08.05. 2016 03:27 »
G'day polly.
This is another topic that is wandering way off original topic.
Could you please ask any questions not related to the "ID engine & frame" in their respective sections. Head bolts, follower keepers in Engine and so on.
There's no such thing as a dumb question but the search button will answer most.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #26 on: 14.05. 2016 23:23 »
Understood muskrat ....I should of asked or looked to the search ...

My thread is this overhaul  and how this pans out

Offline cableguide

  • Moving Up
  • **
  • Join Date: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 26
  • Karma: 0
  • south coast uk
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #27 on: 16.05. 2016 20:22 »
Nice project. My 0.2$

From what I understand and I may be wrong but apparently excessive smoke can be caused by an incorrect cam breather cork..something to do with too much oil being flung everywhere etc ..sorry I cant be more specific.

Offline polly

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #28 on: 16.05. 2016 20:38 »
Hopefully I have found the reason  for the smoke, being the cracked head .. but until I get the head back and fit it im not going to know.

This has been a tad expencive so far and my fingers are crossed that its going to work out .

My fingers are crossed at this point .

Offline a10 gf

  • Global Moderator
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • **
  • Join Date: Sep 2006
  • Posts: 3181
  • Karma: 57
  • West Coast, Norway & Alpes Maritimes, France
    • A10 GF
Re: Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #29 on: 16.05. 2016 20:55 »
Quote
My thread is this overhaul  and how this pans out
ok, but am changing title\splitting\moving the engine details to 'engine'.
The orignal posts about numbers\frame has been moved to 'frame'.
Thanks


Stand with
A10 GF '53 My A10 website
"Success only gets you a ticket to a much more difficult task"