Author Topic: A10 new restoration, Engine  (Read 7471 times)

Offline Greybeard

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #75 on: 30.06. 2016 20:01 »
Are you sure they are alluminium? If they are steel they are likely to be bits of crankshaft shim. I cannot understand how they got under the sump strainer.
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Online RichardL

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #76 on: 30.06. 2016 20:40 »
How closely did you inspect the sump plate before you affixed it to the just-completed rebuilt engine? 93.47% sure those are shim bits. Hopefully, they are pre-rebuild.

Richard L.

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #77 on: 30.06. 2016 20:43 »
I guess it could be steel.
they are wafer thin
the two bits were attached to the magnet ...so i also have no idea how they got passed the mesh.I guess maybe they could of managed to go past the cut out hole but there a bit big for that .

Do you think I have a problem ...All seems good.
 

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #78 on: 30.06. 2016 20:47 »
Richard,
I only did a top end overhaul since buying the bike .Hopefully they have been there forever. first oil change since getting the bike

Online morris

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #79 on: 30.06. 2016 21:08 »
I guess it could be steel.
they are wafer thin
the two bits were attached to the magnet

If they were stuck to the magnet, they're definitely steel.
I would at least take the sump plate and mesh off, and poke my fingers and a flexible magnet in as far as they would reach to feel if there's any more.
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Online RichardL

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #80 on: 30.06. 2016 21:08 »
I hope you are right Polly. Maybe try a short ride, say 10 miles, and pull the sump plate again to see if more pieces show up. If you haven't used gasket sealer yet, maybe skip it until you've done a couple such tests. If no more pieces show up, maybe the bits you just found were simply missed by the previous rebuilder. On the other hand, maybe the PO had discovered bits in the sump before the sale and removed those on top of the mesh in case you checked that becore purchase, but missed these.

I wonder if anyone here has a good way to check crank play with the assembled cases in the frame. I'm really trying to avoid saying it has to come apart, bbbbut, it does seem like a strong possibility. I'm honestly hoping someone chimes in and says I'm completely wrong.

Richard L.

Offline muskrat

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #81 on: 30.06. 2016 22:10 »
Yes, looks like shim to me.
You'll need to remove the timing cover, mount a dial gauge to contact the end of the crank and use a screwdriver to push & pull the crank (using the inner cover or oil pump for leverage). While your there mount the gauge vertically on the crank to measure up & down, then horizontal to measure back and forth. Any more than 0.002" in any direction is too much.
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Offline chaterlea25

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #82 on: 30.06. 2016 22:22 »
Hi All,
I would remove the primary cover and check the crank cushdrive nut for tightness,
I have a pain in my wrists repeatedly typing that it needs to be tightened to 65ft/lbs
punching and C spanners just dont work *sad2*
Its an easy matter to attach a flat piece of steel to the case screws and use a magnetic base dial gauge on  the end of the crank push and pull to measure endfloat

John
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Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #83 on: 30.06. 2016 22:25 »
Bugger,

Well now I guess I know why the bike was cheap.

Sh.t pistons and rings/barrels .A cracked alloy head  and now this. Ive overcome everything so far but cant see how Im gonna overcome this

Online RichardL

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #84 on: 30.06. 2016 22:42 »
You could look at it this way, if it helps. It's not like you had completely removed the engine from the bike, rebuilt the whole thing and now have to do it again. You've already got the top end sorted, so the worst real back-tracking will be putting the rocker box on a second time. I think most of us have had to do that before. At least you will get to inspect the bottom end and, hopefully, find no news worse than the shims gone.

Richard L.

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #85 on: 30.06. 2016 22:48 »
Yes Richard,

A good way to look at it .

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #86 on: 30.06. 2016 22:50 »
I wonder, How many miles could I ride it this summer without really messing it up before I strip it down . ?

Online RichardL

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #87 on: 30.06. 2016 23:29 »
I've no experience wth that, so maybe someone else can shed some light. I think knowing how much play is there will affect how the question is answered.

Richard L.


Offline bikerboy

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #88 on: 01.07. 2016 01:12 »
Polly

I have known bikes do a couple of 1000 miles with a bit of extra end float but more worrying is where parts of those shims ended up that were not in the sump. A10's in general really need the bottom ends 100% as the damage that can be done is damned expensive believe me.

As already said measure the end float (I would take off both the primary case and the timing case personally) check for up and down play both ends and listen to what it sounds like. Bottom ends normally give a fair bit of notice when there is wear anywhere.

When is the Uxbridge Show btw I am only down the road in Ascot?

Offline polly

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Re: A10 new restoration, Engine
« Reply #89 on: 01.07. 2016 04:56 »
Well sounds like I got some work to do Bikerboy.

I think Ill wait till after the Uxbridge [17th July] show to check her out now.

I have 2 bikes of my own and four others lined up and still have room for more on the stand.

I transport mine in a van along with loads of marquees and bbq /chairs/tables .It would be great to have some more BSAs .