Author Topic: Clutch adjustment (again)  (Read 1462 times)

Offline Sam C

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: May 2015
  • Posts: 56
  • Karma: 0
Re: Clutch adjustment (again)
« Reply #15 on: 05.08. 2016 15:41 »
Some really helpful stuff here.

To update you all: I took the bike for a test ride yesterday, and it's literally never felt so good! The clutch is not exactly 'effortless' but it's a damn site less effort and even more amazingly I can very easily engage neutral. Something that was never the case before.

All in all I think the bike is about the best it's been since I've had it. All thanks to the advice I've had on here. So cheers all!

I've still got food for thought though and have bottled the 240mile round trip I was planning to do from today (I'm taking my 'other toy' instead: Triumph GT6!). Sods law that will break down now!

Once I've taken it for a proper long distance ride I'll let you know if I feel the need to open it all back up again / start fiddling around with the clutch lever down by my right foot. The idea I like best is Dutch's though since it's weird that the adjuster seems to be in the right place, but the lever seems to be in slightly the wrong place!

Cheers

Offline chaterlea25

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jun 2009
  • Posts: 3260
  • Karma: 47
Re: Clutch adjustment (again)
« Reply #16 on: 05.08. 2016 18:43 »
Hi All,
Quote
'm not by any means disputing any other suggestions, but something else that occurred to me is if the Actuating arm is that far out of whack I wondered if it's possible for it to be a tooth too far around on the spline, which may place the adjuster correctly, but place the arm too far out  *????*

Quote
it's weird that the adjuster seems to be in the right place, but the lever seems to be in slightly the wrong place!

Yes the adjuster will fit in any spline position,
If you eyeball down looking at the lever and adjuster nut face they should be parallel
you can also remove the adjuster and thread in a longer 3/8 x26 bolt
When the top lever is parallel with tha casing joint the bolt should be at right angles to it and the case joints

John


1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4540
  • Karma: 41
Re: Clutch adjustment (again)
« Reply #17 on: 05.08. 2016 19:50 »

 
Quote
....you can also remove the adjuster and thread in a longer 3/8 x26 bolt....

  I wasn't sure what you meant for a while *conf*, then it clicked...similar to pulling the pushrod through as a guide.

 It may be tricky to do it in situ, ( assuming it could be an issue), depending if the split pin is easy to remove/replace without dropping it (magnet on stick retrieval tool !) I actually found it to be near impossible.
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline Sam C

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: May 2015
  • Posts: 56
  • Karma: 0
Re: Clutch adjustment (again)
« Reply #18 on: 16.08. 2016 18:49 »
Chaps

Sorry for being quiet for a bit.

I'm afraid that I had a fairly nasty (not bike related) accident just over ten days ago and have been in hospital since (still am).

On that I'm going to put up another post explaining what's happened and asking about views on electric starters for A10s.

In mean time: don't worry, I'm on the mend and this will all just be a story soon enough!

Cheers

Sam

Offline ellis

  • Valued Contributor
  • ****
  • Join Date: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: 3
Re: Clutch adjustment (again)
« Reply #19 on: 16.08. 2016 23:51 »
Start saving up Sam could be in excess of 15 hundred pounds, but would be nice to just press a button.     :! *good3*

Ellis