Author Topic: Brake adjustment  (Read 1045 times)

Offline Angus

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Brake adjustment
« on: 12.08. 2016 12:34 »
I have read regularly on here then the brake arm on both front and back brakes should be at 90 degees to the cable pull. E.g. the back pointing straight down and the front 90 degrees to the fork leg. Since these brakes are not the best they need all the help they can get. On both the 1960 A7 and 1961 A10 (full width hub) the levers are not at 90 degrees. As the A7 was on the ramp having a good clean and check over I thought I would try and do the back brake. The lever was at about 4:30 (hour hand) but on taking it off it has a square hole. This means that you can only adjust it 90 degrees which is way to far. I have not taken the brakes apart so don’t think centring the shoes will help and they should not be worn as are about 4000 miles old.
Is there another method of adjusting this.

 
1961 A7 since 1976
1960 A10 Gold Flash Super Profile Bike
1958 Matchless G80 Project
1952 Norton Model 7 Plunger
1950 T100

Offline Topdad

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #1 on: 12.08. 2016 13:03 »
Hi angus, I had the full width hub from my old A7SS and was sure it had a multi point arrangement so that you could adjust the angle of dangle that way . I think I still have it if so I'll let you know and maybe it would fit the back brake for you .
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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #2 on: 12.08. 2016 20:28 »
I seem to recall discovering on my Plunger machine that if I turned the brake arm over I got a better angle position.

Online morris

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #3 on: 12.08. 2016 20:50 »
Probably the wrong brake arm, just like on my rear FWH. Tried every position but none would work.
Some time ago I ordered a multi point, but the hole was to big so couldn't use it.
Meanwhile still searching after a correct one...
 *spider*
How's this for incorrect angle?;
'58 BSA A 10 SA
'52 BSA A 10 Plunger
'55 MORRIS ISIS
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Online chaterlea25

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #4 on: 12.08. 2016 21:39 »
Hi All,
You can try turning the brake cam 180 degrees,
or the shoes can be packed by making steel "shoes" folded around the flat ends

Its equally important to get the lever on the crossover shaft working at 90 degrees to the cable as well
I have found that the brake cables being sold are too long resulting in a loop hanging down

On my SR I had to pack out  the relined brake shoes(NOS linings) to get the arm at the correct angle
 I shortened the cable outer to get it to run as straight as possible, and re soldered the ball end back on the shortened to suit inner
I can now lock the back wheel if required  *smile*

 *warn*Being competent and confident at soldering is a requirement for modifying brake cables *warn*
 *warn*The consequences of failure can be fatal *warn*

Silver soldering or brazing overheats the steel wire and wrecks its temper

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Online muskrat

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #5 on: 13.08. 2016 06:11 »
 "*warn*Being competent and confident at soldering is a requirement for modifying brake cables *warn*
 *warn*The consequences of failure can be fatal *warn*

Silver soldering or brazing overheats the steel wire and wrecks its temper"

I agree with John. The nipple must be soldered correctly.
 I push the inner through the nipple then flare the end and push a pin head in, then soft solder. Never had one let go, even with heavy braking on the race track.
If you need to pack the shoes try the ones for the A65 68-5519.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
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Online bsa-bill

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #6 on: 13.08. 2016 08:18 »
Quote
I seem to recall discovering on my Plunger machine that if I turned the brake arm over I got a better angle position.

Last night I started to reply with the same thought, if the lever has no kink ......., sometimes the square is not cutout exactly along the axis of the lever, and turning it gives a half notch difference, but then I started to doubt my thinking, this morning my minds a bit more positive and I agree with GB
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline duTch

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #7 on: 13.08. 2016 09:12 »

 
Quote
   I seem to recall discovering on my Plunger machine that if I turned the brake arm over I got a better angle position.


Last night I started to reply with the same thought, if the lever has no kink ......., sometimes the square is not cutout exactly along the axis of the lever, and turning it gives a half notch difference, but then I started to doubt my thinking, this morning my minds a bit more positive and I agree with GB

 I also read that earlier and agreed in principle at the time, except that I'm a bit confused as my Plungers b/arm can't function turned over..*conf* , unless GB has a different B/arm..??
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #8 on: 13.08. 2016 09:35 »
... I'm a bit confused as my Plungers b/arm can't function turned over..*conf* , unless GB has a different B/arm..??
Memory problems: It was the front lever that I was able to flip;  it's a flat lever, just a stamping really. The rear lever is cranked, as shown.

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #9 on: 13.08. 2016 09:37 »
Quote
except that I'm a bit confused as my Plungers b/arm can't function turned over.

both my bikes are S/A, the brake arm I referred to though may well have been one of several spares I've bought or off a full width hub that I could have bought.
Just about impossible to claim anything to be original on these old girls unless you bought it new
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline duTch

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #10 on: 13.08. 2016 09:58 »
 Thanks GB- that's more like it *smile* ..
Quote
Just about impossible to claim anything to be original on these old girls unless you bought it new

 Probably true, unless it was procured ~30++ years go, although, I did try and adapt a few rear brake arms on mine that I thought might work better, but the only one that fitted, and works is the original (I even made one), that I'm lucky to have acquired back then *smile*...My main problem then was I was trying to use the wrong foot pedal *bash*

 Angus, as you have a square hole *eek*, and don't mind modifying it, you could use a square file and carve it so it has eight points instead of four. It's easier than you might think, that's how I made mine from flat bar.

 **modified**.. *bright idea* you could even easily make one from scratch using Stainless flat bar...*work* *beer* *smile*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #11 on: 13.08. 2016 10:37 »
My main problem then was I was trying to use the wrong foot pedal *bash*

That was when we first met. You were on the Yahoo Groups BSA forum, (asking for help on that forum was like pissing in the wind!) and I suggested that you join this forum. You seem to have made yourself at home!

Offline Angus

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #12 on: 13.08. 2016 11:15 »
Thanks for the advice.
Flipping the lever had no effect. I dont really want to start making steel shoes as its not that bad YET. The cross over lever is at right angles and the cable appears a good length. I am think of buying one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bsa-brake-arm-for-b31-b33-G-star-RG-Star-made-of-polished-SSteel-/322225936520?hash=item4b06299888:g:dWoAAOxyVLNSvX6H instead of getting a file out just not sure its the right size.
1961 A7 since 1976
1960 A10 Gold Flash Super Profile Bike
1958 Matchless G80 Project
1952 Norton Model 7 Plunger
1950 T100

Offline duTch

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #13 on: 13.08. 2016 11:25 »

 
Quote
That was when we first met. You were on the Yahoo Groups BSA forum, (asking for help on that forum was like pissing in the wind!) and I suggested that you join this forum. You seem to have made yourself at home!

 You've done well, I don't even remember the yahoo groups  to have forgotten it, I thought I first remembered you when I was following the Cannonball in '12 ? Until i got a bug; file name .eml - I remember that bit(ch) got rid of it by searching the system by that name, and was VERY satisfying to stab the little f***er to oblivion (and I'm not a agro type-much)
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Online morris

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Re: Brake adjustment
« Reply #14 on: 13.08. 2016 15:05 »
I am think of buying one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bsa-brake-arm-for-b31-b33-G-star-RG-Star-made-of-polished-SSteel-/322225936520?hash=item4b06299888:g:dWoAAOxyVLNSvX6H instead of getting a file out just not sure its the right size.

That one's exactly like the one I bought. The star hole will probably be to big...
'58 BSA A 10 SA
'52 BSA A 10 Plunger
'55 MORRIS ISIS
The world looks better from a motorbike
Belgium