Author Topic: End float  (Read 783 times)

Offline A10 Tim

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End float
« on: 24.08. 2016 20:46 »
Hi all,
       I'm upgrading to the four Spring clutch on my A10, and noticed there is .007 thou end float on the crankshaft, i thought I would put it by you chaps in the know as to whether I should split the crank cases and shim the crank. I renewed the timing bush, rings, ends etc about 5 thousand miles ago and just put the original shim that was there back.
Or would 7 thou be ok for a few more miles.
Your thoughts much appreciated.
                                              A10 Tim

   

Offline RichardL

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Re: End float
« Reply #1 on: 24.08. 2016 20:58 »
One-piece shim or a shim stack? Did you measure the thickness of the shim or stack before you put it in?

Richard L.


Offline A10 Tim

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Re: End float
« Reply #2 on: 24.08. 2016 21:14 »
Hi Richard, As I remember it was a one piece, and I never measured it. I had the timing bush end of the crank ground and fitted a new bush as for some reason it sufferd there. The rest was good, so I renewed the ends, rings etc but never checked the shimming.

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Re: End float
« Reply #3 on: 24.08. 2016 21:18 »
G'day Tim.
7 thou" is too much. The problem is oil going to the bigends can leak out between the crank and thrust face of the bush. The more endfloat the less oil getting into the crank. With a new bush with the right clearance it should be minimal BUT *ex*
ALWAYS check and re-shim if a new bush or main bearing is used.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline RichardL

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Re: End float
« Reply #4 on: 24.08. 2016 21:27 »
Well, the reason I asked was to suugest looking in the sump for thin shim bits if any were used in the stack.

Richard L.

Offline A10 Tim

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Re: End float
« Reply #5 on: 24.08. 2016 21:34 »
Richard,I've not seen anything when I drained the oil, I always look for any metal particles and there was none. I will check further.

Offline A10 Tim

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Re: End float
« Reply #6 on: 24.08. 2016 21:43 »
G,day to you Muskrat,
The timing bush is still tight, it is the side to side movement of the crank that is 7 thou.

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Re: End float
« Reply #7 on: 24.08. 2016 21:56 »
I realize that Tim. The oil is fed into the bush then into the crank. Oil will seep out of the bush at either end (even when new). More end float means more area to seep.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Muskys Plunger A7

Offline A10 Tim

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Re: End float
« Reply #8 on: 24.08. 2016 22:04 »
Ah I see, I didn't think of that, thanks muskrat.
Many thanks
               

Offline RichardL

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Re: End float
« Reply #9 on: 25.08. 2016 00:14 »
Richard,I've not seen anything when I drained the oil, I always look for any metal particles and there was none. I will check further.

Wasn't really thinking particles. More like bits sitting on top of the sump screen when you remove the whole sump plate. Anyway, it may not matter since 0.007 float is too much and likely means a strip-down. I think Muskrat agrees. What say you M?

Richard L.

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Re: End float
« Reply #10 on: 25.08. 2016 09:23 »
If it were mine I would.
I have seen them running with more than that, but it's only a matter of time (and a lot of money).
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline A10 Tim

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Re: End float
« Reply #11 on: 25.08. 2016 18:21 »
I'm going to take your advice and go for the strip down. I want to do it properly this time.
I post a few pics as I do it.
Am I right in saying that if I mic the shim that's in there now and add say 5 thou, that would be the size of the new shim or shims, That would give 2 thou end float when assembled.
Cheers
         Tim

Offline RichardL

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Re: End float
« Reply #12 on: 25.08. 2016 19:08 »
I don't think I would do it that way. Better to take the old shims out, put the inner race back on (some people use a trashed inner race with the ID ground a bit bigger for easy removal during the testing), bolt the cases together and measure the float. Create a shim stack that fills the need to get to the desired float and measure again with that stack. When you know you have the right height shim stack, you might choose to have a single shim ground to match that height (I don't, but some better mechanics here do). If you go with the single shim, assemble with that and measure again.

Richard L.

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Re: End float
« Reply #13 on: 25.08. 2016 20:15 »
I only have one thing to add to Richards post. If you use another bearing with a slightly larger bore (2-3 thou" is enough) make sure it is exactly the same thickness. I have seen cheap Chinese bearings 1 or 2 thou" different in thickness. Calculate the difference in your end float measurement.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7