Author Topic: Top end strip  (Read 738 times)

Offline tlmark

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Top end strip
« on: 12.10. 2016 14:51 »
Hi Guys
over the winter I'm planning on stripping the head of my A10 just check the valves as the right cylinder is a little smoky but also so I'm comfortable knowing how things work on her. and try to fix a couple of oil leaks  ;)
I'm also going to return it to using a monobloc carb. 

so really I'm just asking for any advise regarding the job, and any tools that will make life easier?
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Online Greybeard

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #1 on: 12.10. 2016 18:12 »
This is useful for early machines: http://www.bsawiki.com

These engines were designed for the average owner-mechanic to be able to fix them so common sense goes a long way.
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Online muskrat

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #2 on: 12.10. 2016 20:11 »
G'day tlmark.
I'd be looking at the bore as well. Shame to do a head job ( *shh*) and she still smokes afterwards.
Cheers
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'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
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Offline mikeb

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #3 on: 12.10. 2016 22:07 »
read the various posts on this forum about aligning the pushrods with the rocker cups - i've had more success and less profanity using the 'rubber bands' and bits of wire method. you're supposed to get a pushrod comb which helps hold the pushrods in place - but really this just solves one problems by creating another.
make sure you have some moly goop for under the head bolt washers so they go down evenly. and a 3/8 drive torque wrench (I first tried with a 1/2" - grrRR! too big).
and read the posts about annealing copper head gaskets. turns out its necessary, easy and good fun.
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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #4 on: 12.10. 2016 22:14 »
I seem to recall a discussion here about grease vs dry when tightening head bolts. One of the Trusty's will comment I'm sure.
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Online muskrat

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #5 on: 13.10. 2016 02:19 »
I seem to recall a discussion here about grease vs dry when tightening head bolts. One of the Trusty's will comment I'm sure.
I do them dry but make sure the threads (both hole & bolt) are clean.
Cheers
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'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
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Offline TT John

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #6 on: 13.10. 2016 08:39 »
Musky,
Just looked at the  picture of your A7, is that the original tank or is it an Indian replacement as the badge & black paint work seems to be going downhill, I know I got an Indian tank for my A7 and notice the knee pads were out of alignment and I had to straighten them up but apart from that it was perfect.

Regards TTJohn
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Online muskrat

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #7 on: 13.10. 2016 20:09 »
G'day TT John.
That is the original tank, knee grips and badges (re-chromed). Yes the paint work on that side is a bit sad. I masked it up very late one night after half a box of beer  *bash*. The other side looks better and overall not bad for 1st attempt just using rattle cans.
Cheers
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Offline tlmark

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #8 on: 14.10. 2016 19:47 »
Cheers guys all advise welcome

Push rod comb?   *eek*

need to look that one up  *smiley4*
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Offline Billybream

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #9 on: 14.10. 2016 20:12 »
The push rod comb is a thin steel strip with cut outs to aid push rod location during head reassembly, never had a lot of success when using it, I manage with Fingers and bent wire. The comb tends to misplace the gasket and gets messy with sealant, but not expensive to buy. The push rod task is one of a BSA major challenges.
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Online Greybeard

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #10 on: 14.10. 2016 20:24 »
The push rod task is one of a BSA major challenges.
True, but if you happen to have long thin fingers with an additional joint you'll be OK.
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Online RichardL

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #11 on: 15.10. 2016 00:33 »
For me, I now find getting the front nuts back on is the biggest rocker-box pain. Though, I think the technique I used last time is not too bad. I put a bit of heavy grease on the end of thin knife then laid a washer in the grease. This is not the washer that goes under the nut. Those are easy to get in place by using a needle-nose pliers . The washer on the knife is to support the nut from below the fin below the below the end of the stud. The washer protrudes up through the hole in the fin to support the nut while you turn it with one or two fingers.

Well, that wasn't even where I was going. I don't have either skinny or long fingers, so I have come to trust the comb. The important thing being to keep the cups down by holding the adjuster ends up with rubber bands back to one of top bolts. I stick the coated gasket to the rocker box rather than the head and this avoids most of the sealant smearing. Once I think I've got things in place I check with a small-diameter articulating mirror and a flashlight to look back up at the cups. (For the record, I know this repeats myself and others.)

Richard L.

 
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Online orabanda

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #12 on: 15.10. 2016 01:03 »
Richard, we might be in different hemispheres, but we install the front nuts the same way!
I usually reach for a 6" steel rule, hacksaw blade or a narrow (1") paint scraper to hold the nut in place.

ps; good luck with the election you have our sympathies ; it's a bit like having to choose between syphilis or gonorrhea!

Richard
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Offline East_Coast_BSA

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Re: Top end strip
« Reply #13 on: 15.10. 2016 04:41 »
I use a magnet for the front nuts.  A small telescoping variety, looks similar to a ball point pen when it's not extended.  It sticks to one flat of the nut and I set the washer on top.  Hold it up into position and start turning.  It works really well.  As far as push tubes go, I never have a problem.  I have long fingers (and kind of thin).  I back off the adjusters all the way and set the rocker box on.  At TDC only one valve is open, so three of them drop right on.  The other I just move into position and move the rocker and I can feel the cup capture the rod.  I never use sealant on anything, just dry paper gaskets.  I've never had a problem and I've pulled that rocker box off many times.  Maybe I'm just lucky.
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