1955 A10 Golden Flash 650cc - swinging arm model - clutch problem

[BrianS]

I thought I would do some simple jobs on the A10 just to get my hand in but am not doing very well so far as you may have seen from my front brake and front spindle questions 

I had a leak from the clutch cover but I think I found that, when I went to drain the oil, it was a slightly loose drain valve bolt.

However, there was also an occasional rattle coming from the area of the clutch that I wanted to investigate so took the cover off.

First off I found that there was only one nut holding each spring on (the parts diagram show there should be two so that they can lock together) and they were all finger tight. Some of them had their heads chewed as if attacked by a small angle grinder - see photo - and one was thicker than the others and mysteriously coated in white paint.

The inside of the casing also had a dribble of white paint running down from the inside of the filler hole. Why might a previous owner have done this? There are also some fresh rub marks on the filler cap and hole which may explain my rattle. I hope they can be seen in the photo.

What is more worrying is that a couple of the bolts are shorter than the others and, again, they seem to have been attacked by an angle grinder!

I would welcome any comments and suggestions as to how to proceed.

Brian

[trevinoz]

It looks like you are up for a new hub. The studs were probably damaged at some time and have been "repaired".
I use a single nyloc nut on the studs rather than the two nut locking set-up.

[Klaus]

Ohoh yes the bolds are not common and had to be released. These bolds are fix and I gues the clutch had not worcked propper.
These six spring clutch are bot the best. If you will use your bike not only for posing, spend some money in a belt drive clutch form BNR.

cheers Klaus

[BrianS]

Ohoh yes the bolds are not common and had to be released. These bolds are fix and I gues the clutch had not worcked propper.
These six spring clutch are bot the best. If you will use your bike not only for posing, spend some money in a belt drive clutch form BNR.

cheers Klaus

Hi Klaus! Odd though it may seem, the clutch was working fine! 

I had a look at the BNR website but, unless I was doing something wrong, I couldn't see the product or get a price. I am guessing they are expensive?

Brian

PS My A10 isn't classy enough to pose on 

[BrianS]

It looks like you are up for a new hub. The studs were probably damaged at some time and have been "repaired".
I use a single nyloc nut on the studs rather than the two nut locking set-up.

Thanks for that - I guessed that I would be in for a new part!

Draganfly offer them at a sensible price but they won't be available until Jan 2017 

I have found one on eBay - not sure how long to come from India though     http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BSA-CLUTCH-CENTRE-6-SPRING-5-PLATE-M20-M21-B30-B31-B33-B34-A7-A10-66-3903-/152284005203?hash=item2374d58353:g:KZUAAOSw~1FUUyZV

Brian

[BrianS]

Sorry - put this on the wrong sub-forum 
Can a mod please move it to the correct one please?
Brian

[Klaus]

Hi Brian,

have abnother loock at the picktures and it seems the clutchbasket and other parts are nearly new.
So have a look at here these are right bolts.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/57-4754-BSA-A10-A50-A65-TRIUMPH-T90-T100-T120-T140-CLUTCH-SPRING-PIN-SET-OF-3-/252472170641?hash=item3ac8839891:m:mE6uhiPs0lhXdOF47bwY_5g

For get off the basket you need an extractor like this one:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/BSA-6-Spring-Clutch-Hub-Extractor-Puller-61-1912-or-61-3362-P117-/191972536078?hash=item2cb2746f0e:g:9zoAAOSwFMZWqc1k

Be sure the cushdrive is very tightened  and the endplay of the chain is 1 insh I think.

Yes the BNR clutch kit is 570 pounds. But I gues you have a chance to bring the cluth in good condition with the correct bolts.

cheers Klaus

[Klaus]

I am wrong with the bolts six spring are fixed.
So you need only the nuts.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/BSA-GOLDSTAR-A10-ETC-NEW-OLD-STOCK-CLUTCH-SPRING-NUT-42-3249-X6-/162276406199?hash=item25c86d73b7:g:p6oAAOSwcLxYJOrQ

[Triton Thrasher]

Hi Klaus! Odd though it may seem, the clutch was working fine! 

Hope it's still as good after you fix it.

[Topdad]

Brian, as Klaus says so diplomatically the 6 spring clutches aren't the best, in fact I hate 'em with a vengeance , probably because I haven't the patience to set them up or the skill of Kevin . Being mortal mine went into the bin and eventually I sent bits of it to various people who wanted continue to torment themselves with a 6 springer as spares. If you can't afford a belt drive setup and by the way have you heard of Tony haywood in flint who also does belt drives , try a secondhand 4 springer . Much easier for more mortals= more time riding  and will keep you sane   

[chaterlea25]

Hi Brian,
The Ebay link to the centre for £17 is the correct item, then the nyloc or double 1/4BSF nuts
OOps just noticed this is from India !!
I have no time for the 6 spring clutch either, but if it works, the best of luck with it
Judging from the photo it has had some recent new parts
Anyway if you decide to change the clutch, a 4 spring clutch (triumph type is available at half the price of a BNR belt kit
There are several 4 spring clutches available and you will see that the price varies quite a bit
This is due to the difference in price of quality vs cheapo imports
The SRM clutch is probably top of the pile but has the best quality components available

While you have the primary cover off check that the crank cush drive nut is fully tightened
Check recent posts for a Citroen /Peugot tool that will fit the "nut" . tighten to  65ft/lbs torque
Pull and push on the crank to check for endfloat

John

[BrianS]

Thanks for the very helpful replies guys 

I have contacted Steve Burch of SBV Classics who I bought the bike from and he is hopeful that he can sort me out a good used hub so that I can get the A10 back on the road quickly. I have also ordered a puller. Steve has a large stock of parts so fingers crossed. http://www.sbvclassics.com/parts.php

As I said, the clutch (perhaps surprisingly) worked well other than the mysterious rattle so, hopefully, I can get the bike back and running quickly and cheaply and find out what other work or parts are essential before I start investing in clutch upgrades and such like. I am missing some lovely riding weather

I will check the crank cush drive nut properly John but, on first inspection, it all looks OK with no discernible end float.

Brian

[Greybeard]

I've read here that early six spring clutches are OK which implies that BSA later made an inferior six springer version. My '55 bike has a six spring clutch that works fine; requires a strong left hand but works as expected. My clutch still has the domed cover which keeps excess oil out of the clutch. After a recent reassembly I had difficulty getting into and out of gear while stationary but after using a dial gauge to set up the spring retaining nuts it's been great.

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
 

I've read here that early six spring clutches are OK which implies that BSA later made an inferior six springer version. My '55 bike has a six spring clutch that works fine; requires a strong left hand but works as expected. My clutch still has the domed cover which keeps excess oil out of the clutch.

GB, the plunger bikes as I believe yours is have a completely different clutch to the swingarm A models
The plunger clutch is a fine piece of engineering, it has a roller bearing, a splined mainshaft holds a solid inner drum and the pressure plate is a rigid two part construction

Why BSA used this on the plungers and the poorer design on the swingarm models is a question that history has not answered
Some sources say that the plunger clutch is a Burman design ???

John

[Greybeard]

Interesting. I wonder if the reason is that many plunger framed bikes were hitched up to mahoosive family sidecars so needed a tougher clutch.