rear chain adjustment

[duTch]

 

    For the alignment side of things I get the measurements from the centre of the swingarm spindle to the wheel spindle the same.

Sounds simple but just how do you do that?

 I say BSA500 (Andy?) is suggesting ensuring the Rear axle and swingarm spindle are parallel. Having said that, the same has to be the case with the Drive sprocket/Mainshaft/S/A splindle/Axle as I said above ^^^^ (mainly G'box mainshaft/ R Axle)

  Trev, ¿¿ I think you mean the chain is tightest when the G'box mainshaft/Swingarm spindle/ R-Axle are in line, and slackest when at the ends of the arc ? If not I disagree through fundamental geometric reasoning...?
 The plumb-bob system has merit if the the F-forks are guaranteed dead straight ahead....each to their own I guess

[BSA500]

Yep parallel.I used to have massive issues with aligning the back wheel with the front causing issues during MOT time. Done using a steel tape measure. Get the chain measurement correct and then check it and if its out tweak until its right usually a few mm out.  And yes its Andy 

[RichardL]

Well, the topic here has really changed to wheel alignment.

Unfortunately, our member LJ is not active on the forum any more. (Hello LJ, wherever you are.) I can't believe it's been 10 years since he posted his wheel alignment method. Here it is: http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=368.msg1737#msg1737

Richard L.

[stu.andrews]

Have I got it wrong? I have always thought that when the GB sprocket, SA pivot & rear axle were all in line, this was the longest measurement, hence the time to adjust the chain.
Tell me I'm wrong, Trevor?

[Butch (cb)]

I just pull the chain up when the bike is on the side stand and check that the axle looks about the same in the s/arm slots on both sides before tightening it all back up. I’ve never noticed any bias when turning one way as opposed to the other, the main inhibiting factor to any antics there being the centre stand tang on the left. My local MOT station has long since ceased to take any interest in this machine. Am I under thinking it?

[duTch]

  Something I can't help notice when I'm (reluctantly) behind another bike, is to have a look at how the bike is tracking.

 I'd forgotten until this arvo when this happened and the rear was obviously trackinging to the right. Can also be a case of twisted forks or frame, but most likely bad chain adjustment. When I can, I (reluctantly again) try to let the rider know, but usually have a blank responsive look like " thanks, but what the farque would you know ? ", or similar;  . Didn't have the chance today, 'cos he/she was going right and me left, but the point is, anytime when riding with others (which I don't, except the youngsta), just check things out, and take .

 Also it's worth remembering looking at the sprockets occasionally to see where the wear marks are, because a misaligned chain/sprocket will wear quicker- and the bike will ride like a plastic bucket

[BSA_54A10]

 

    For the alignment side of things I get the measurements from the centre of the swingarm spindle to the wheel spindle the same.

Sounds simple but just how do you do that?

 I say BSA500 (Andy?) is suggesting ensuring the Rear axle and swingarm spindle are parallel. Having said that, the same has to be the case with the Drive sprocket/Mainshaft/S/A splindle/Axle as I said above ^^^^ (mainly G'box mainshaft/ R Axle)

  Trev, ¿¿ I think you mean the chain is tightest when the G'box mainshaft/Swingarm spindle/ R-Axle are in line, and slackest when at the ends of the arc ? If not I disagree through fundamental geometric reasoning...?
 The plumb-bob system has merit if the the F-forks are guaranteed dead straight ahead....each to their own I guess

Weah, I wll go stand in the dunces corner with the pointy hat on.
Tightest when sprockets and spindle are all in a strait line,

AS for alignments , I do them by eye the test on the road.'
If the rear is not strait it will cause the bike to turn in big circles much like a rudder or rear wheel steering.
So a few hard accelerations will quickly tell you if the wheel is not true to the frame
Some hard acceleration followed by engine braking will tell you if the wheel is not tight enough.
Just done 1000km and tweeked the rear wheel at the first 3 fuel stops so now the bike runs arrow strait.

[muskrat]

Another way is to release the handle bars. If she turns left pull the left side back.
Cheers