Oil & Detergents

[BSA_54A10]

When Musky thinks we have gone too far he will either delete or split the post.
Abiotic oil theory dates back to the anchient times of pre-atomic theory when every thing was made of different ratios of earth, wind , fire & water.
Now there is a slight possibility that some oil deposits could have occurred abiotically, but you have to get a lot of ducks lined up in the correct order for it to happen.
Just because I can make something happen in a lab under highly controlled lab conditions does not mean it will happen in the enviroment.
No abiotic oil deposits have been identified to date.
People who have no understanding of partial pressure, solid state diffusion and permability of the earths crust have used the "regeneration of spent oil wells" as proof of the existance of abiotic oil .

This is why an understanding of physics & chemistry are so important.

Edited by adm

[duTch]

 Thanks Trev, I'll do my best to analyze that. The concept came to my attention about ten years or so ago, and not many have heard about it. I only heard of 'fossil fuel/oil' in the seventies, until then it was generally known (in my young world) as 'mineral oil', and when I heard about abiotic, i started to question stuff.
 But this is not the right place- just thought I'd sneak it in

[RichardL]

Now there is a slight possibility that some oil deposits could have occurred abiotically, but you have to get a lot of ducks lined up in the correct order for it to happen.

Uuuh, if you use ducks lined up, I think it would be fossil fuel. 

Honestly, I'd never heard the term "abiotic oil" before. After Trevor's description and a bit of Google, it is apparently a lot of hooey on the order of ether being the fifth element (after air, fire, water and earth) occupying all of outer space.

Richard L.

[BSA_54A10]

Well the thermodynamics of most of the proposed paths is sound but the probability is not high.
The thermodynamics of coal, lime & magnetite turning into iron is sound too.

[JulianM]

And the subject of this ost was?   

My opinion,
In a newly rebuilt engine that has really been done properly with all new parts, bearings seals etc, then use the best quality 'Modern' detergent type multigrade oil possible.  Best if it is also redily available so you can but it in the high street if you run low on a trip.  I use Motul 20/60 as I find that 20's leak less when cold and standing in my workshop for weeks on end.  reality over theory winning again.
J

[Zander]

What does the collective think about the use of flushing oil after a drain down?
( runs for cover)

[bikerbob]

I would imagine that most people would be like me, I change the oil every year without fail regardless of how many miles that the bike has done if it has done less than 1000 miles I change the in line filter every 2 years with this set up there is no need to ever consider using a flushing oil. I have never used a flushing oil.

[Zander]

I've not used it for years, and never on a bike,  but I've found a fair bit of dross in the drained oil and filter of the GF.  I don't know how long the bikes been standing.  Apparently, it's an " older restoration", and judging by the lack of carb on the piston crowns, it's not been run much. i could flush it by doing an oil change and draining it when hot, which is probably the best way of dealing with it.

[gavinoz]

Hi Zander, to repeat what others said, I would never use flushing oil in my A10 engine again.I would not describe the sound as 'a bag of nails'. More like two knights in armour going at each other with maces!! Cheers, Gav.

[Zander]

Thanks for the info, Gav - I'm convinced.  A double oil change is the way I'll try to clean the engine up a bit.👍

[jachenbach]

Not A10, but may be relevant: I ran a '74 Karmann Ghia, air cooled, no filter, for 200,000 miles and sold it still running fine with 10w40 high detergent oil changes every 1500 miles. When I met my wife she drove an old VW beetle. The first time I checked her valves I couldn't believe the crud in the rocker covers and all over the rocker arms and shafts. Mostly water sludge but some harder black crap as well. 2 quick oil changes (about 500 miles) and when I next checked the valves it looked like new parts inside. Continued to run fine for a couple years after until the fuel pump diaphragm gave out and filled the crankcase with gasoline.
  I don't doubt that it would be possible to loosen crap and trash bearing shells, but I see no reason not to run a good grade of modern oil in an engine that starts out clean. IMO frequent changes are the real key to long life. I have 265,000 on my 4 cylinder Jeep on full synth and 6k changes. Still has almost 60psi oil pressure.

[Triton Thrasher]

Uuuh, if you use ducks lined up, I think it would be fossil fuel. 

Is your duck squeaky and stiff?

[coater87]

 Flushing oil?

 I dont think I have ever heard of it. But I do remember being told that adding a quart of kerosene to the engine right before a change and letting the motor run for 10 minutes was the way to go.....

 Basically just thinned the oil that was in there and maybe knocked some sludge down...at the cost of the bearings and every other moving part.

 And that was back in the days when the oil you ran was very crude (see that?).

 I dont think that ever needs to be done these days, and it would ruin more than it could ever help.

 Lee

[Butch (cb)]

I was quite recently given a whole bunch of tins of some kind of flushing fluid - modern stuff at that. The tins are small enough that I guess you add them to the oil for a short run prior to a change. I'm not going near them.