Author Topic: Cleaning rusty rims  (Read 887 times)

Offline worntorn

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Cleaning rusty rims
« on: 20.04. 2017 18:36 »
I fitted an a65 brake plate to the 63 SR wheel last fall. This works ok but the actual drum contact area is only 1 1/8" wide whereas the TLS shoes are about 1 5/8" wide.
The plan was to eventually lace the a65 drum into the nice SR wheel but that seemed   unlikely to ever happen.
A try at cleaning up the rusty a65 rim turned out ok.
Copper pan scrubs along with some type of metal polish really cut the rust without scratching the chrome.
The Autosol tube didn't go far so out came a cheap bulk tin of metal polish sold by Aircraft Spruce. It worked just as well as the Autosol at about 1/50 th cost.
Glen








Offline Slippery Sam

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #1 on: 21.04. 2017 07:45 »
Nice job Glen,
It's amazing what results a bit of elbow grease can achieve.
I tried the wider shoe'd TLS on my A10 and gave up and sold it (the TLS).  I'm keeping my eyes open for a narrow version.  I'm sure Julian quoted the part numbers at one point (maybe on other forum) so if I dig that out I'll link it or add the part number for the one that fits the SR hub.
Must look out the Aircraft Spruce you talk about to see if it's available here - it's always great to find an economic version of something we use every day.

Looking good Glen - keep up the good work.
Raymond.
BSA A10 Cafe Racer project
Scotland

Offline dave55

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #2 on: 21.04. 2017 09:06 »
Is this the stuff?   http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/cleaners_polish.html   looks like good stuff  *smiley4*
BSA Bantam D7 175  1961
BSA A10 650 Golden Flash 1955 Plunger
Suzuki GSX1400 2003

Offline worntorn

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #3 on: 21.04. 2017 17:19 »
Dave, I don't see the polish on that page but here it is- - I bought the 2 lb tin for $30 CDN,  it will last a long time.
Glen
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/pages/me/polishes/metallpolish.php

Offline worntorn

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #4 on: 21.04. 2017 20:56 »
Nice job Glen,
It's amazing what results a bit of elbow grease can achieve.
I tried the wider shoe'd TLS on my A10 and gave up and sold it (the TLS).  I'm keeping my eyes open for a narrow version.  I'm sure Julian quoted the part numbers at one point (maybe on other forum) so if I dig that out I'll link it or add the part number for the one that fits the SR hub.
Must look out the Aircraft Spruce you talk about to see if it's available here - it's always great to find an economic version of something we use every day.

Looking good Glen - keep up the good work.
Raymond.

The problem with the wide shoes of the TLS fitted to the SR drum is that area in the drum where the spoke ends reside.
The shoes will contact the high spots of the casting in this area and this causes extreme pulsation. Grinding down the areas that made contact in that strip helped ease the pulsation, but some remained, due to an out of round drum.
The wheel wouldn't quite fit in the lathe (18.5" swing) so I was contemplating a setup on the mill for trueing the drum.
It occurred that the sticky Emery paper method for arcing shoes to drum could work in reverse for trueing the drum.
Even a few thou out of round makes a lot of pulsation and a few thou can easily be removed with emery paper.
The method is to cut some strips of self adhesive backed sandpaper or emery paper and stick them on the linings. Put the brake plate into the wheel and tighten the spindle nut with the brakes applied. This was all done with the wheel blocked up but laid flat on the workbench.
I used a bar clamp to hold the brake on lightly then started to rotate the brake plate. Initially the plate would drag heavily in some areas and run free in others. About 30 minutes of this and one fresh application of emery paper had the brake plate turning with identical drag all of the way around.
On trial all pulsation was gone.
I used the bike like this for awhile then decided to fit the a65 drum and rim for a full contact setup. The a65 drum needed the same sticky Emery treatment to get rid of pulsation.
The full a65 setup is marginally stronger than the previous bitsa 2 ls but should wear a lot less and would be less likely to overheat.
This is the old Sr wheel and drum with its problematic bumpy spoke end area.


Online JulianS

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #5 on: 22.04. 2017 10:41 »
Nice job Glen,
It's amazing what results a bit of elbow grease can achieve.
I tried the wider shoe'd TLS on my A10 and gave up and sold it (the TLS).  I'm keeping my eyes open for a narrow version.  I'm sure Julian quoted the part numbers at one point (maybe on other forum) so if I dig that out I'll link it or add the part number for the one that fits the SR hub.
Must look out the Aircraft Spruce you talk about to see if it's available here - it's always great to find an economic version of something we use every day.

Looking good Glen - keep up the good work.
Raymond.

The narrow shoe TLS is the Eddie Dow conversion - see my post under "Service literature scans documents"

There is a problem using the A65 brake on then A10, with either the narrow or wide brake hub, and that is getting sufficient safe engagement of the fork lug with the brake plate.

The brake is designed to fit the A65 fork which has a longer lug to engage with the brake - some 6 mm longer than the A10 lug according to my measurements.

Many have overcome the issue by building up the brake plate with weld to get the necessary engaement.

Photo shows 1968 A65 fork leg at top and 1962 A10 fork leg at bottom.

Offline worntorn

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #6 on: 22.04. 2017 15:18 »
You are right, I left that part out. I had to build up the lugs on the brake plate with Al.tig weld then clean up in the mill. It's not bad to do but it sounds like the Eddie Dow version would be the ticket, if one can be found.
I don't mind having the greater brake swept area of the A65 setup.
There, I have waited years to write the phrase "brake swept area" . It was in every Smokey Yunick road test back in the day😀

Glen

Offline WozzA

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #7 on: 23.04. 2017 00:45 »
I took a chance & had my badly rusted rims Hydroblasted..
It cleaned the hubs & spokes up a treat...
Unfortunately there is bad pitting in the rims so will be replaced ..
'51 Golden Flash Plunger
'57 Golden Flash Swingarm

Melbourne
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Offline Jules

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #8 on: 25.04. 2017 03:40 »
the blasting did a good job Wozza, who did that for you, would you recommend them ie they were careful and good, what sort of $$ was it? I'm in Melbourne burbs and good contacts are always useful....cheers

Offline WozzA

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Re: Cleaning rusty rims
« Reply #9 on: 25.04. 2017 04:22 »
G'day Jules... here's the link to previously posted infomation ... he's in West Sunshine
word of warning, Hydroblasting removes all paint & rust it can NOT fix badly pitted rims..  the compound used with the water leaves a dull finish on the chrome BUT it does re polish up nice.
 http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=11622.0
He's away on a cruise ATM should be back in a couple of weeks..
'51 Golden Flash Plunger
'57 Golden Flash Swingarm

Melbourne
The biggest lie I tell myself is
"I don't need to write that down, I'll remember it"