Author Topic: Drive side main bearing  (Read 1604 times)

Offline Colsbeeza

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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #30 on: 18.04. 2020 12:31 »
Thanks RDFella for the Mics thoughts. I have digital to 0.0005" but like you I don't trust them. However they were cheap!!
Swarfy, I had to machine about 3mm off the inner end of the sleeve bearing some time ago to align the sprockets. Before assembly, I put the sleeve on without the spring etc to make sure it would go a little further on the spline than needed. All OK there.
BTW, regarding the plastic cage on the NJ206, I had a thought that once it is located in the Drive side crankcase, to remove it with heat above 120 Deg C would mean a replacement - one downside of this arrangement. However I would try dropping the case in boiling water 100 Deg C first, chill the outer bearing and see if it would come out. I got the spare bearing in case.
Col
Colsbeeza
Australia

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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #31 on: 19.04. 2020 12:13 »
Col,
They came from a stash of stuff I bought at auction.
No case & no calibration block either but I have checked them against internal micrometer and one of them is 0.0003" out
The internals did not come with a calibration sleeve either.
For the stuff we do a normal 0.001 +/- .0005" is more than good enough just so long as it is properly calibrated and you use the block for temperature corrections.
Having never done this before we of course went overboard.
What was interesting was all of the bearings were different widths , We had 3 old ones removed from crank cases .
I do not watch TV so have a ton of indoor time to do things like haunt industrial auctions.
I suspect in the near future there will be rich pickings as a lot of small engineering business will not survive the Virus. 
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline Colsbeeza

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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #32 on: 19.04. 2020 12:45 »
Hi Trevor,
You will be right about small engineering business failures, just when we need them more than ever. I'll keep my eyes peeled.
I decided to buy two identical bearings, and use one  inner ground loose as a spacer tool. I haven't measured them yet, but if the widths of the inner rings are only a thou or two different, then I should be able to correct for difference and go very close on the first trial shim measurement. I got a third one as a spare for any future failures. A$143 incl. freight to the shop for three isn't a bad price. Hopefully I'll never need to purchase one again.
Col
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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #33 on: 20.04. 2020 09:24 »
So you are going to remember where you left taht bearing in 15 year time are you ?
Yeh right.
I bought 5 copper head gaskets from Lannin to make up the minimum freight weight 3 years ago and I can't find them.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Online cyclobutch

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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #34 on: 20.04. 2020 09:27 »
Where do you find micrometers to 0.0001"?

Looks like a normal mic but has a little vernier scale on the barrel for tenths.
Various, including ...
'58 Iron Head Flash Bitza


Offline Colsbeeza

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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #35 on: 21.04. 2020 00:30 »
Yes Trevor I have a foolproof system. Now where did I leave it.?
Thanks Cyclobutch. I haven't seen any, but will keep an eye open.
Col
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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #36 on: 21.04. 2020 07:43 »
Where do you find micrometers to 0.0001"?

Looks like a normal mic but has a little vernier scale on the barrel for tenths.

Thats the animal and you need reading glasses plus a good magnifier to read it .
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Online berger

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Re: Drive side main bearing
« Reply #37 on: 27.04. 2020 12:53 »
if I remember correctly there was some discussion on which way the inner race of the drive side roller bearing fitted to the crank web on swingarm bikes regarding pulling it back off again? well I have two old and one new of these bearings, two are the same make and the other a different make that I had a good look at whilst playing in the shed, and I discovered you can't go wrong if you look where the outer race has been ground and fit the inner the correct way the rollers and grinding near enough match up. if you turn the inner round and fit it there is a distinctive difference in where the rollers run in the outer. hope this is of help to anyone who has dropped the inner out and doesn't know how it goes back. first pic correct , second pic where grinding and rollers don't match. can of worms now opened *whistle*