Author Topic: reproduction toolbox  (Read 439 times)

Offline coater87

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reproduction toolbox
« on: 22.06. 2017 00:20 »
 Anyone own one of these?

 My original toolbox needs lots and lots of work.

 This is the bulbous one and someone tried to flatten it out at one time. They also managed to twist the entire box a little, and drilled a bunch of mystery holes in the back. Lots of cracked out metal around the mount holes too. Im thinking the bike it came off was in an accident and the toolbox took the brunt of it.

 If the Repops are OK, I might save myself the hours and hours its going to take to get the lid to close decent and plug all the holes. Then the hours its going to take to get the metal close enough to fill and smooth.

 Ill keep the original as a rainy month project. If the repops are not so good, then I guess I have to bite the bullet and just fix it.

 Lee
Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Online terryg

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Re: reproduction toolbox
« Reply #1 on: 22.06. 2017 09:27 »
Here's an alternative...
http://www.owensmotorcycles.co.uk/spares-toolbox-BSA-A10.html

Maybe a bit pricey, especially once shipping is added.
Terry
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Offline a101960

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Re: reproduction toolbox
« Reply #2 on: 22.06. 2017 11:04 »
Good condition? £60 for that? I don't think so
John

Offline coater87

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Re: reproduction toolbox
« Reply #3 on: 22.06. 2017 13:46 »
 Yeah, thats quite pricey for that.

 Once you start welding on that lid, and I dont care what method you use or how much heat sink putty you smear on, its going to warp. Its the shape of a lid or a fender or hood that gets you, and our tool box lids are a particularly bad shape for welding. There is no strength in the lid (not even a folded edge) and the metal is all going to pull to the welds.

 With my limited talent, I would end up making that one worse than it is. *sad2*

 Lee

 

 
Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Offline Topdad

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Re: reproduction toolbox
« Reply #4 on: 22.06. 2017 14:36 »
Don't think you could ,should be given a decent burial  *conf2*
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Offline Sluggo

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Re: reproduction toolbox
« Reply #5 on: 23.06. 2017 21:06 »
Ill jump in here and feel free to tell me to butt out....

But first of all it would be helpful to know which year and model as they differ. My understanding is early rigids and plungers had a flat(ish) lid and more triangular,, swing arms are more rounded and a slightly curved lid.  I have several for various projects (Singles and twins)... and on some non stock bikes ill adapt a Enfield one as they are super cheap on Feebay or some dealers.

I can snap some pix of some of mine for reference if you like but I am not selling any at this time,,

But my $0.02  on repops,, the asian & indian made ones vary tremendously. I know some of the people in India and my close friend Sobby is a manufacturer. He correctly and wisely advises that most of the sellers are agents and the people who make the parts never hear from the consumers. They would happily correct issues if known in most cases but its a communication issue.  In Sobbys case. He IS the manufacturer and warrantees his products for life against my strong objections and advice.  ( a limited time span sure,, but lifetime is a long time).
Many parts like that I call 90% parts.  They get it right most of the time,, but its always some little thing..  If you could just get them to correct those issues it would transform the business.

As to repair,., theres several ways to do it.  I worked for years in aerospace and know some of the top welders in the world.  Amazing stuff.  They  can weld paper thin materials with zero distortion and defects.  I used to have in my tool box 2 safety razor blades welded end to end on the sharpened edges with a perfect weld bead.  ZERO distortion.  The key is Tungsten Inert Gas welders with good heat control and gas shielding.   At a foundry-manufacturer I worked at for 6 years I call "Pretty Close Cast parts" we had some really nice weld chambers.. From small weld boxs with gas ported in to full chambers that looked like sandblast cabinets. You slide the part in, seal the door, a pump draws out the Oxygen and then purges the chamber with argon, Argon/Nitrogen or in some cases a Argon Helium or other gases mix..  You can weld all day in a O2 free environment without traditional issues.

You can also make purge shield plates out of perforated copper and apply to the backside and with careful weld control weld with impunity.

Another method is metal spraying. Several vendors in my area will clean sheetmetal or your cars 1/4 panels,, then use a liquefied metal spray and rebuild the area up..,  It works great for rusted out and paper thin areas.  Will never rust again either.  I have 30 years experience doing custom body and paint, and many ways to solve these issues...

One thing I used to do frequently is take a angle finder and contour gauges and make templates for needed patch panels.  Go to the wrecking yards and find a car with similar curves,, cut out an area much larger with the nervous saw.  (I use a DeWalt cordless saw, drills and angle grinder with cutting discs while mobile)  Take it back to the workshop and tack it in place,, I an okay welder but on precision stuff take it to one of my guys and pay to have it finished welded in.  Then I grind the welds down, shape it, Anneal it if needed, and paint the sucker.   There ARE people out there who can do this if you cant, the question is time and money.
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Offline dave55

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Offline coater87

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Re: reproduction toolbox
« Reply #7 on: 24.06. 2017 05:47 »
 Thanks guys.

 I can find round tool boxes over here, most are pretty beat, the ones that are not are covered in pretty newish paint. You always wonder what's under the new paint.

 The t.i.g. welder I use is an ancient Miller 250, I don't have any special chambers or million dollar set ups unfortunately. I usually just use a shot bag to form panels. That's worked for me a lot of years.

 I think I will add a couple pictures because everyone loves pictures. *smiley4*

Central Wisconsin in the U.S.