Author Topic: Head Steady Set-up  (Read 822 times)

Offline tommo903

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Head Steady Set-up
« on: 04.07. 2017 13:45 »
While I had the tank off last night, I took the opportunity to replace the 4no long bolts and washers that hold the head steady brackets down (the ones fitted looked like local hardware shop items). However, after refitting the horizontal bolt that passes through the spacer bar, I can't now refit the nut as there's not enough space due to the new bolt head that's higher than the previous one.
Do the fittings look correct? I have a spring washer under the bolt head and a plain washer under the head steady bracket. The new bolts were supplied by Draganfly.

Thanks, Steve

Offline Topdad

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #1 on: 04.07. 2017 14:20 »
Whats the clearance like on the other side ?
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Offline tommo903

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #2 on: 04.07. 2017 14:22 »
I had to gently tap the horizontal bolt in and one of the flat sides was scraping against the top of the rocker bolt!

Online RichardL

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #3 on: 04.07. 2017 14:34 »
I don't think you need the washers between the bracket and the rocker box. I've never had them. Nevertheless, that won't change the relationship between the top of the rocker-box bolt head and the head (or nut) of the cross bolt. The clearance is tight even with the original bolts. You could try a serrated, rather than spring, lock washer. I assume those are stainless bolts, so you could consider having some height turned off the heads (of the bolts).

EDIT: ...or return them to Draganfly if you can find the right ones elsewhere.

Richard L.
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Offline Slippery Sam

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #4 on: 04.07. 2017 14:48 »
Tommo
I've just had the steady off mine reinvent in the last week - don't ask!
My bolts clear but only just.
I did the rocket bolts first and made sure they were properly and evenly torqued before fitting the cross bolts.
Pretty sure the cross bolt is a reduced head one and no washer on bolt head just on nut side.  My cross bolt doesn't look like yours.
When I say they just fit I mean I can actually still get a socket on for tightening.
Which model is it?  Might be a different steady to mine (s/a alloy head).
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Online JulianS

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #5 on: 04.07. 2017 16:10 »
Those bolts should be standard head not reduced hex thick heads. Until  this photo posted I have never seen bolts like that on a rocker box. They are so much scrap.

The washer under the bracket is needed to provide enough clearance between the rough cast part of the rocker box and the bracket to allow things to be peroprly seated.

The spacer needs to abut the brackets or the steady will not be firmly attached. If it is too short you may need to insert a washer/washers between tube and bracket or balance the tightening of the cross bolt and the long bolts so that the tube abuts. There is usually sufficient clearance between the bolts and the bracket drillings to allow a bit of movement.

Photo from late parts book.

Online RichardL

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #6 on: 04.07. 2017 16:26 »
The washer under the bracket is needed to provide enough clearance between the rough cast part of the rocker box and the bracket to allow things to be peroprly seated.


Ah! That explains why my engine nipped up.  *smile*  You could counter with, "If you left out those critical parts, who knows how screwed up you could be?" I do.  ;)

Richard L.
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Offline tommo903

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #7 on: 04.07. 2017 16:39 »
Thanks all...so it looks to be the bolt head that's the problem. I have to agree, they do look too thick and in addition, the spring washers underneath are too small and don't 'match' the bolt head anyway. Any idea who sells the 'correct' bolts please? By that I also mean the cross bolt which also looks wrong to me as well.

I agree about using the plain washers under the bracket. Mine were missing and now having added them, the bracket does now sit properly.

Steve

Online JulianS

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #8 on: 04.07. 2017 16:49 »
You need to challenge Draganfly.

I usually deal with C and D Autos - a phone call to them may be worth it. 01564 795000.

Offline tommo903

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #9 on: 04.07. 2017 16:55 »
Thanks Julian..I'll do that.

Out of interest, I'll photograph the bolts I removed when I'm home later, just to see if you think they may be the originals. The heads are shallower but they do have some lettering on top...I always consider this as an aftermarket item but I could be wrong!

Steve

Offline Tomcat

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #10 on: 05.07. 2017 08:20 »
I had exactly the same problem with new pattern rocker box bolts. Pretty sure the head of the new bolt is longer?  I used a reduced hex nut to solve the problem.
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Offline tommo903

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #11 on: 05.07. 2017 09:01 »
Your right Tomcat, the pattern bolt heads are longer, hence why I was having a problem...mine will be winging their way back to where they came from today. I've now refitted the old bolts for the time being so that I can ride the bike at least.
Out of interest, I've pictured the old bolts as I'd like to know if they're original...I've always tended to think that bolts with stamping marks are aftermarket, (that's certainly true with japanese bikes) but I'm not sure about the 3 bolts with 'Wiley' on them. The 'SPARTS' bolt does have a marginally longer head so I'm guessing this is an imposter!

Online duTch

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #12 on: 05.07. 2017 09:06 »

 May be wrong, but vaguely recall having some 'WILEY' heads on some studs on my '58 R-Rocket in the '70's ....... *dunno*
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Offline coater87

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #13 on: 05.07. 2017 11:41 »
 I had a few Wiley bolts that came with my project.

 Only noticed it because I gad never seen a "wiley" brand bolt before.

 Maybe they came with the bike, or maybe Wiley was a good maker of after marker replacement bolts- like Colony is for Harley? *dunno*
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Online JulianS

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Re: Head Steady Set-up
« Reply #14 on: 05.07. 2017 18:52 »
I think the bolts in the photo are original fitment. I have both Wily and Sparts in my odd parts including head bolts. many of the bolts used by BSA would have been bought in proprietor ones. They would,  head bolts excepted (blackened finish)   have been finished in dull cadmium plate rather than the now common bright zinc, with forged heads.

Photo from service chart 15, though poor quality, does show markings on some of the bolts.