Author Topic: 1953 A10 forks  (Read 700 times)

Offline MartinK

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1953 A10 forks
« on: 08.12. 2016 15:19 »
Please look at the wheel in the forks. the brake side is fixed tight to the fork so can get no closer yet the gap to the nearside fork is less.I have checked the wheel in regards to the brake side fork and taken a straight line down the fork and measured the gap between the top of the wheel to the fork centre and done the same at the bottom and have found a difference of 6mm. the top being the larger measurement. should the measurement be the same which would line the wheel up better? Could the fork have a slight buckle ( which I cannot see)? Any help would be good, thanks.

Online terryg

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #1 on: 08.12. 2016 15:51 »
If it was mine I'd be checking alignment of the front wheel with the rear, and adjusting the front offset as necessary.
In saying that I'm assuming the rear wheel (rim) is in the right place for starters.
Terry
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Online RichardL

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #2 on: 08.12. 2016 16:19 »
I believe Terry has hit it by pointing at offset, but in case this is not clear, it refers to the offset of the rim with respect to hub (really, the centerline between the two spoke attachment flanges, but that might make it less clear). The point is, it's a matter of spoke adjustment that brings the rim to center between the forks. Having said that, on my swingarm model, there is about 18-20mm between the inside of the left fork and the spoke flange (kinda hard to get to for a casual measurement). If this does not equate to conditions for a plunger I suppose someone will point that out.

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Offline dave55

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #3 on: 08.12. 2016 16:23 »
Just been out to garage and checked mine and its same distance from fork leg to rim on both sides .
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Online Greybeard

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #4 on: 08.12. 2016 17:12 »
I've been out to my shed to look at my bikes front wheel. It's dark and a bit tricky to see details. The outermost flange of the brake drum is all I can see when lining up the tyre edges, (gunsight style). It appears that your drum may be more offset, (more showing), but I may be wrong. 

On mine, on the other side the gap between the bottom of the fork leg where the axle comes through and the hub is about an index fingers width. The axle protrudes about a little fingers width into the breeze; yours looks like it has more protruding. I cannot see the hub to fork leg gap on yours. I have a feeling, (from memory so could be wrong) that the spindle doesn't have a locating step in the left fork leg. In other words the fork leg could be located closer to the hub. You may find that you can loosen the locking screw and pull the leg out until you have an equal gap both sides.

If you are still struggling tomorrow I'll drag the bike out into the light and take some pictures and measurements for you.

Offline duTch

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #5 on: 08.12. 2016 17:20 »

 I don't know if it would have any affect, but if the stanchion is not quite pulled into the top yoke taper it may affect the distance from yoke to axle centres ?  *dunno*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
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Online muskrat

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #6 on: 08.12. 2016 19:54 »
The spindle (axle) seems to be protruding too far out of the left forkleg. The spindle might be binding in the leg, wedge the slot and see if it corrects itself. This may also indicate a bent stanchion or trippleclamp. But in saying all that the offset does look a bit off to the left.
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Online morris

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #7 on: 08.12. 2016 20:47 »
It seems to me that the offset ain't right.
Remove the brake plate and lay the wheel brake side down on a flat surface.
On my plunger, 17mm between rim and surface puts the wheel dead centre between the fork legs.
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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #8 on: 20.12. 2016 15:42 »
I'd like to see an update to this post please.  *????*

Offline MartinK

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #9 on: 29.07. 2017 08:47 »
I'd like to see an update to this post please.  *????*
I'd like to see an update to this post please.  *????*
Hi GB. I did reply. It would appear that the offset needs attention by adjusting the spokes. I have read loosen tight side and then tighten the other side using quarter turns. Apparently this method is the norm so I will try it and let you know.

Offline MartinK

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #10 on: 29.07. 2017 08:54 »
Thanks for all the help. I am going to try to alter the offset using the spokes. I believe that loosening the tight side by a quarter turn and then tighten the wide side by the same should move the rim central. If not quite there I will repeat this process. The reason for late reply is that I purchased yokes and forks from a 53 Flash and had them powder coated with the frame and just started working on the bike again. Thanks again

Online Jules

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #11 on: 30.07. 2017 09:27 »
I had exactly the same issue with my '56 SA and used the spoke realignment method to centre the wheel in the forks - I did this in conjunction with checking the front to rear alignment though. I think you need to be sure that f/r is good as well Martin...

Offline MartinK

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Re: 1953 A10 forks
« Reply #12 on: 27.08. 2017 11:45 »
Hi All. Sorted out my offset wheel problem by adjusting the spokes. Thanks for all your input.