Clutch adjusting

[chaterlea25]

Hi Roy,
The inner basket sometimes (mostly) cuts a groove into the shaft adaptor 
You may have to turn it a bit to get the splines to line up so it can be pulled out
Make sure the adaptor puller fits on fully before applying tension to it, pouring boiling water over the lot can help as it
heats the adaptor quickly so the heat does not travel through to the shaft as happens when heating with a blow lamp

John

[RoyC]

Hi Roy,
The inner basket sometimes (mostly) cuts a groove into the shaft adaptor 
You may have to turn it a bit to get the splines to line up so it can be pulled out
Make sure the adaptor puller fits on fully before applying tension to it, pouring boiling water over the lot can help as it
heats the adaptor quickly so the heat does not travel through to the shaft as happens when heating with a blow lamp

John

A couple of pictures to show my problem. The thread for the puller appears to be external not internal.

Is this the tool I need ?

[RogerSB]

Roy,
Your picture is for 6 spring. I believe there are two different threads for the 6 spring, depending on year of bike, either 24 tpi or 28 tpi.
My picture attached is for 4 spring.
6 spring is MCA (Aston) Ltd, Pt no P117.
4 spring is MCA (Aston) Ltd, Pt no P110.
MCA (Aston) product is what virtually everyone sells.


The inner hub should just pull off the clutch centre (adaptor) - then you tackle the clutch centre with a puller.

[RoyC]

Roy,
Your picture is for 6 spring. I believe there are two different threads for the 6 spring, depending on year of bike, either 24 tpi or 28 tpi.
My picture attached is for 4 spring.
6 spring is MCA (Aston) Ltd, Pt no P117.
4 spring is MCA (Aston) Ltd, Pt no P110.
MCA (Aston) product is what virtually everyone sells

Unfortunately Roger I have already got one of those in your picture. 
I have ordered the one in my picture, now I hope that it's the correct thread.    . It's 1-3/16" INTERNAL x 24tpi THREAD.    P117.

[RogerSB]

When you get the centre hub off if you have a grove running around the clutch centre/adaptor (some have, some don't) you may be better off using a bearing separator like this. It's £19.99 from Screwfix, it pulled mine off when the P117 couldn't move it. Also handy for other jobs whereas the P117 will be useless when you throw your 6 spring clutch in the bin.

[RogerSB]

Roy, don't forget when you tighten the puller onto the centre, if that doesn't move it then give the end of the puller bolt a whack with a lump hammer.

[RoyC]

Just to clarify, this puller is to remove the inner cage ?

[JulianS]

Roy

The puller you need for the 6 spring hub is the one with internal threads.

The puller with the external threads is for the BSA 4 spring.

With your 6 spring clutch the pressed centre with the studs and the chainwheel should pull away leaving just the hub on the gearbox mainshaft to be pulled off with the tool.

[RoyC]

Roy

The puller you need for the 6 spring hub is the one with internal threads.

The puller with the external threads is for the BSA 4 spring.

With your 6 spring clutch the pressed centre with the studs and the chainwheel should pull away leaving just the hub on the gearbox mainshaft to be pulled off with the tool.

The pressed centre with the studs is jammed solid but the chain wheel is loose.
So it's just a matter of pulling the inner cage with studs until it comes off.
I'll have to rig up some kind of puller off the studs. 

[JulianS]

You can just leave it on and pull it all off with the centre puller.

[RoyC]

You can just leave it on and pull it all off with the centre puller.

I'll give that a go Julian, when my puller arrives, that is if I have enough thread to hold the puller.

[RogerSB]

Roy, picture of 6 spring chainwheel showing the bearings and the clutch sleeve (sorry I know it as, and have been referring to it here as clutch centre).


Also see pictures of p17 and p18 of my own produced parts book, which makes it easy to cross reference what parts are what and what they are called.


The bit that needs to be pulled off is no 40 on p17.


No 61 is the bit that should (in your case) just come away with a good yank. Once that's off the chainwheel with its bearing should just fall off.


Good luck.

[RogerSB]

The chainwheel movement is undoubtably play in the bearings. The 6 spring chainwheels are usually wobbly without the plates and pressure plate fitted. You may try to use that play to work the clutch hub (or centre) off all in one go. Grab the chainwheel and give it a good yank from side to side. May work.


You'll get there in the end.

[RoyC]

The photo makes it all clear now, I can see that the centre cage is just held by the splines and it's just a matter of working it loose. Thanks a lot for that.

[RoyC]

Just had reply from SRM and they recommend Castrol Classic 20/50.
in the primary case.