Author Topic: crankshaft  (Read 1537 times)

Offline spyke

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crankshaft
« on: 25.06. 2009 23:55 »
Hi chaps ,

I have a large journel crank which i need to remove the  sludge traps , what
is the best way?
Where previous attempts have been to do this the crank is a little "chewed" around the edges of the centre dotting
I know this isnt good but ive seen one thread that this type of damage can lead to crank failure ,whilst i accept the possibility of this what can I do? as this is my only crank , I intend to build the engine in a low state of tune and dont intend on thrashing it.Any comments.

Cheers Spyke
A10 spitfire style

Offline MikeN

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Re: crankshaft
« Reply #1 on: 26.06. 2009 09:20 »
Spyke,
When SRM did my crank they gave me back the old sludge trap plugs and I observed that they had drilled them down the centre,wound in a hex head bolt about 3/8" 10mm  and tack welded it to the plug .Then unwound them.Quick and effective if you are so equipped.
  Dont give up,You must get them out and clean it out properly.
Mike

Offline A10Boy

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Re: crankshaft
« Reply #2 on: 26.06. 2009 09:28 »
If your plugs have been centre punched on the threads, you need to lightly drill into the indentation, this then releases the hold on the punch mark.

The old type slotted head ones can be very difficult to remove, you might need to make up some huge screwdriver device, stick the crank in the vice and get plenty of leverage going on.

I recently removed some hex head plugs, I had the crank in the vice, and an old fork leg on the tommy bar for added leverage and it was still a struggle.

good luck
Regards

Andy

1958 Super Rocket
Plus
1974 Kawasaki Z1a
Yam XJR 1300

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: crankshaft
« Reply #3 on: 26.06. 2009 11:30 »
I used to use the "shift fitters tool box" A ball pein hammer and a chisel.
Then I got some really fat bits for the impact driver, they work a treat.
Use the same ends now but in the rattle gun.
Always replace them with the hex headed aluminium plugs which will be much easier to remove next time.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Online RichardL

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Re: crankshaft
« Reply #4 on: 26.06. 2009 12:23 »
Spyke,

The way I did it is to lightly drill the edge dimples to release their hold, as mentioned, then dirll a hole in the center and drive an allen key into that hole. It won't matter if you drill all the way through, because you will be relacing those plugs. I don't know where Trevor got aluminum plugs, but my hex-driven type are steel (or, maybe, iron). When drilling those edge dimples, definitely favor the plug edge versus the crank. If I recall correctly, the drill diameter was 5/16" as was the hex key, however, there is a print article that describes the process and has been posted on this forum that describes the process. I just can't put my finger on it right now. It might be a good idea to find that article or wait for one of us to locate it.

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2020 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDEon September 27, 2020 (if it's not cancelled and we are free to move about by then). Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Online RichardL

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Re: crankshaft
« Reply #5 on: 26.06. 2009 13:31 »
OK, here is the link to the hex (allen) key  sludge-trap-plug removal technique I described.

Richard L.

http://bsa.hailwood.com/endplug.html
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2020 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDEon September 27, 2020 (if it's not cancelled and we are free to move about by then). Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline wardleybob

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Re: crankshaft
« Reply #6 on: 04.11. 2012 13:02 »
I allways weld a 10 mm bolt in the plug to remove it also when i replace the plug i make sure it is oil tight with a dab of plumbers   paste