Engine sprocket distance piece question

[duTch]

 
 

Hi.Cannot see clearly but have you fitted the large disc and gaskets that fit between engine case and primary back cover, they should amount to distance you are out.

   Billy-b, something in my 'logic' tells me you (or I) may need to re-think that one


 Musko got in as I was typing

[Colsbeeza]

Thanks Fellas,
My first photo of the spacer was after I turned it around for the photo. So I am glad I had a reason to pull it apart. It has a very sharp edge. I may even gain 1/2 a mm getting the sprocket a little closer. As John (CL) said, the main bearing may not have been clamped properly.
Damned if I can remember whether the round steel plate was behind the front of the inner case. but I don't think so. Nor did I measure the depth that the scroll is through the sliding plate. Tempting as Muskrat's suggestion is, I had best pull it down again and rebuild from scratch, remembering to take photos of every step. I should have taken John's advice to check the alignment BEFORE putting on the inner case. All else being OK, I will still keep Muskrat's idea in mind.
I will also check the position of the Clutch centre before dismantling and compare to John's measurements referred to in a previously referenced post. I will also try an O-ring behind the spacer as Orabanda has done.
I also think there is too much clearance on the end of the inner basket, allowing it to float back and forth, allowing the chainwheel to wobble a bit.
So I will try to be more methodical. Looks like the 33 years will be 34.
Cheers
Colin

[RogerSB]

Yep! you need to check for the spacer and gaskets and take care to align the back of the chaincase, it mustn't flex at all or it'll be damaged. Shim any clearance with washers to prevent movement where it bolts to the frame at its lower rear.

You do get a little wobble on the clutch chainwheel - until you fit the chain, then it magically disappears .

Muskrat's advice of having the distance piece ground down to the required size (if necessary) is probably a cheaper option than replacing the engine sprocket bearing if it's the wrong one.

Edit: Engine sprocket bearing = engine sprocket sleeve (as it's sometimes called).

[Colsbeeza]

Yes thanks Roger,
I am certain the sleeve has the right 8mm flange for the S/A, so I probably have enough to get away with machining. Busy at the farm yesterday, so haven't got into it yet.
Col

[Colsbeeza]

Well,
 Yes Roger, the steel plate was there. Today I refitted the distance piece together with a Orabanda-inspired Viton O-ring, and screwed on the Cush Nut about half way and re-checked the alignment. I took John's advice and used a steel straight-edge and not the plastic ruler, and lo and behold the sprockets are in alignment within less than 1mm.
Suspect it was the steel straight-edge that did the trick, and not so much the Distance Piece.
That will do me anyway! A little disappointing, as I was all committed to do the Muskrat solution.!
 I also removed the inner cover rear mounting bolt and the cover sprung back a little. I don't think there has been any damage, but I fitted about 1.6mm of spacer (two washers). This after screwing on the outer cover temporarily to ensure there was no tension remaining. There were no spacers there when I dismantled it a few months ago. (Not my doing).
I measured the Bearing sleeve and it seems to be unmolested Swingarm.?
Also attached are a couple of photos of the Clutch Nut, showing exposed threads. Does that look about right.??
As a final check, I took a photo from above to use the inner cover as a visual straight-edge.
Also attached a photo of my John Chaterlea Clutch Locking Tool. What a great piece of kit that is. It took all the nightmares away - Breaking teeth off the gears etc. Any associated Royalties John.??
Nevertheless, I chickened out at 55 ft-lbs.
Moving on to the clutch mysteries now.
Cheers
Colin

[Colsbeeza]

I dunno what happened to the attachments.
I also forgot to mention that the engine sprocket has a lip of 0.7mm
Colin

[Colsbeeza]

OOps,
Stuffed up the maths.
From the photos, the length of mainshaft thread protruding from the Clutch centre is 12.8 + 3.9  =  16.7mm
Colin

[RogerSB]

Hi Colin, glad to hear you're getting there. I went through the same nail-biting time last year changing from 6-spring to 4-spring clutch. A couple of washers at the rear mounting of the inner case is about par for the course.

My situation was slightly different in that I fitted a complete SRM clutch kit which comes with everything you need except push rod - and I must admit I just fitted it following the instructions and didn't measure anything, but here's a photo I took and you can see there's about 3 - 4 threads still showing with the nut done up tight.

[Colsbeeza]

Roger,
Thanks for the feedback. I had an afterthought regarding the sprocket alignment. I placed a ruler over the photo #19, as the photo was taken from directly above. the sprockets appear to be in good alignment. Useful if you forgot to align it when you should have.!
I do have a question about the Clutch Inner Basket/drum tightness --
Is this inner basket supposed to be locked tight up against the Clutch Adaptor by the Centre Nut & Thick Washer.? or should the Inner Drum have a little play behind the Washer.?
Colin

[Colsbeeza]

Fellas,
I have answered my own question. John CL said it has to be tight.

https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=6305.msg43499#msg43499

So all is well then.!!
Colin

[GFlash]

Hi,
If I understand correctly, 67-1138 should be 10 mm, but how big should the outer diameter be?

Regards
Robert

[berger]

the one in the picture is 42.9mmOD / pattern part, don't forget to turn out the relief for it to fit correctly on the crank. i have had a msg from Gflash and agree that this post could confuse people. by turning out a relief i mean if you are making your own you must remember to make sure it has that valley so it can butt up to the crank web over the radius on the crankshaft. i don't mean the piece itself should be turned outwards. 

[GFlash]

Many thanks berger