Author Topic: Twin Leading Shoe set up  (Read 416 times)

Offline RoyC

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Twin Leading Shoe set up
« on: 20.01. 2018 14:14 »
I set my TLS brake by, removing the tie rod, pulling the brake lever so that the one shoe was on then locking the other shoe on and adjusting the tie rod to this length.
The brake comes on when the handlebar lever is pulled about half of its travel but, I can carry on pulling the lever and it does not get any firmer.
Is this something to do with the stoplight switch or have I adjusted it wrong ?

Roy.
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Offline bikerbob

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #1 on: 20.01. 2018 14:28 »
Surely the stoplight switch works off the rear brake unless you have modified the front brake and the modified switch is limiting the travel of the lever.

Offline RoyC

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #2 on: 20.01. 2018 15:06 »
Surely the stoplight switch works off the rear brake unless you have modified the front brake and the modified switch is limiting the travel of the lever.
Stoplight works off both front and rear brakes.
The front brake cable has a switch built in.
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Online JulianS

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #3 on: 20.01. 2018 15:40 »
I set up the TLS using the BSA manual method. I find it easier that the 3 hand method. Once set and the linings bed in do not readjust the rod or the linings will have to bed in all over again.

I adjust the cable with front wheel off ground, until shoes just off rubbing. Even then, with wheel stationary the lever will come back to the bars. But when moving it is quite different. The shoes slide within the hub when brake applied in motion and you will not get the lever to the bars and if you try you will lock the wheel.

It is a spongy brake but very effective,

The stoplight switch will not cause a problem.

Offline RoyC

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #4 on: 20.01. 2018 16:19 »
Thanks for that Julian.
Not had it on the road yet.
It was the spongy feeling and the lever back to the bars that I was a little concerned about, but I think that I will check to see if both cams are lined up along the flats.
They are new linings and a new drum.
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Online Kickaha

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #5 on: 20.01. 2018 18:18 »
The stoplight switch will not cause a problem.

The Triumph guys I know say the in cable stoplight switch give a spongy feel
1955 BSA Gold Flash
New Zealand

Online JulianS

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #6 on: 20.01. 2018 18:23 »
Feels spongy with or without the stop switch, feels worse if the cable is too long, but still stops very well.

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #7 on: 20.01. 2018 18:41 »

Not had it on the road yet.


I think you should test its stopping effect.

Offline Tomcat

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #8 on: 21.01. 2018 07:16 »
I set up the TLS using the BSA manual method. I find it easier that the 3 hand method. Once set and the linings bed in do not readjust the rod or the linings will have to bed in all over again.

I adjust the cable with front wheel off ground, until shoes just off rubbing. Even then, with wheel stationary the lever will come back to the bars. But when moving it is quite different. The shoes slide within the hub when brake applied in motion and you will not get the lever to the bars and if you try you will lock the wheel.

It is a spongy brake but very effective,

The stoplight switch will not cause a problem.

Thanks for that info Julian.  *smile*
'48 A7 '59 SR '74 850 Commando TDM900

Offline duTch

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Re: Twin Leading Shoe set up
« Reply #9 on: 21.01. 2018 08:01 »

 
Quote
...The Triumph guys I know say the in cable stoplight switch give a spongy feel

 I have one of those type of cables on my conical TLS, and I guess it may be a bit spongy but I don't usually need tho squeeze the begeezas out of it either.
 It's surprising how little cable line- pressure there actually is when setup well ; much less than the clutch in fact....in my case,  the spongy is mainly because the switch is in the middle of a curve so when under tension it needs to try and straighten itself before it can make contact to activate the stop light... so loses some integrity

Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia