Advice wanted, rear wheel locking up

[Roadhog]

Hi, just rebuilt my plunger back wheel hub and brake drum. Everything is about new. Fitted sealed bearings, all parts fitted as per bsa parts diagram. However when I tighten it all up , solid wheel. Clearly the spacers and bearings are clamping up tight when spindle nut tightened up, any ideas. thanks

adm edit: title edited to reflect topic content

[Greybeard]

Maybe one or more of the bearing outer races are not fully seated.

You've got to take the bearings out so compare their width to the old ones using a mic or digital vernier caliper. If they are the same width check the seating for damage or muck.

I'm trying to remember the details but there is some sort of tricky thing in the middle of the hub that has to be properly positioned. Someone with a functioning memory will come along soon.

[Greybeard]

How did you get on removing that damned tin dust cover?

[Greybeard]

Trying to identify how the bearings are located from this blurry image is tricky

[Roadhog]

I had to start from scratch with both hubs as someone previously had fitted wide rims and big tyres, so it was a case of total rebuild, the dust cover on the right hand side was the wrong one initially, I just got a new one which seems to be a push fit, I don't have confidence it will stay in place. Im thinking maybe its the brake drum that is squashing into the drum and locking it up? i will look tomorrow and see if it needs a shim. otherwise its total strip and start again.

[Roadhog]

Hi, I got the bearings from Dragonfly, should be right. they are the same as what came out. Everything is clean as its all been sand blasted and the outside powder coated. I ensured that there was just a little play between bearings and the spacer, so that it did not lock together when in place.

Maybe one or more of the bearing outer races are not fully seated.

You've got to take the bearings out so compare their width to the old ones using a mic or digital vernier caliper. If they are the same width check the seating for damage or muck.

I'm trying to remember the details but there is some sort of tricky thing in the middle of the hub that has to be properly positioned. Someone with a functioning memory will come along soon.

[muskrat]

G'day Roadhog.
If the bearings in the hub are seated the spacer should be snug (not tight or loose). When all done up the bearing inner races and spacer are locked, same with the drum.
Cheers

[Roadhog]

Yep. that all sounds as it is. I think I will strip it an start again.

G'day Roadhog.
If the bearings in the hub are seated the spacer should be snug (not tight or loose). When all done up the bearing inner races and spacer are locked, same with the drum.
Cheers

[duTch]

 

 Along the lines of the above, when I put mine together, the right side bearing needed some tweaking to relieve lateral pressure...... I think from memory I left it a bit shy of butted-up, and left the locking/retainer loose and ring and cover right off , tightened the axle nuts, and if the bearing locked did the retainer ring up until it freed-repeat until axle nuts are tight and wheel runs free (or something along those lines).

 Do you have the correct chainwheel spacer behind the Brake-plate? It's about a ~1/4" square section one...

[Roadhog]

Hi duTch, all spacers and parts are correct going by the parts list and diagram. I think I have found the problem, when I stripped it again. It was the brake drum that was locking up, due to the rubber sealing ring next to the bearing, so when the dummy spindle goes through the bearing it could not seat as the rubber ring held it off and locked up the bearing. However because I have fitted sealed bearings, Im leaving out the rubber sealing ring as its not required.

However, new question. should the Bearing thrust washer go on the left hand side as per BSA parts diagram, or on the right hand side as per Dragonfly part number. The left hand bearing already has a permanent stop in place, nothing for the r/h bearing? 

[duTch]

 I don't remember any 'rubber sealing ring', but built from scratch anyway and running sealed bearings, so fairly irrelevant I guess 

 

.....However, new question. should the Bearing thrust washer go on the left hand side as per BSA parts diagram, or on the right hand side as per Dragonfly part number. The left hand bearing already has a permanent stop in place, nothing for the r/h bearing?

  Now that is *veeerrry* taxing.... If I recall, it took a bit of experimenting to make a choice, but have a feeling I put mine in the right side, but your image up ^^there^^ seems to show it on the left... (sorry but not pulling it apart to find out just yet), maybe I made a note of it somewhere...

[Roadhog]

I stripped the hub and now placed the thrust washer on the right hand side and it seems to work.  the rubber seal is the modern alternative for the old felt seal. however it cant be necessary with sealed bearings. Problems resolved. Thanks all.

[duTch]

 Good you got it sorted,I had a look at the parts list which shows the thrust washer behind the left bearing (but the books have been known to be 'wrong'- hey), and the only felt seal I can see is on the RHS, Kinda 'B' in your fuzzy diagram (?)

 No matter if it works, it works 

[Roadhog]

Sadly its not actually worked, The brake drum when tightened up into the left hand plunger bracket , spins lovely, when I attached the splined hub, still great, when I put the spindle through wit spacer and half tighten spindle nut , still great, once the spindle nut is fully tight, the whole hub is solid and cant spin. clearly something is getting crushed, but No idea what, any ideas, thanks 

[Greybeard]

Have we gone past checking bearing thicknesses?

With the wheel out of the bike, what about sticking a length of chunky threaded rod with a couple of large roofing type washers and tighten it up. See how it moves.