Crankshaft shimming

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
This suggestion is going to make Richard Mad as to why he or anybody else didn't think of it 
Remember the crank was only a smidgin tight

I would have given the thrust face of the timing side bush a shave with a scraper or some emery cloth 

John

[muskrat]

G'day John.
Not a bad idea at all. We're only talking a thou"
Being a F&T I'd need to scrape & blue a few times to eliminate high spots. If not you could end up with too much end float once the high spots wear off. But that's being pedantic I spose when considering the load and amount of use.
Cheers

[RichardL]

Hi All,
This suggestion is going to make Richard Mad as to why he or anybody else didn't think of it 
Remember the crank was only a smidgin tight

I would have given the thrust face of the timing side bush a shave with a scraper or some emery cloth 

John

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha! Mad, I'm not mad, who's mad, why would anybody be mad? Haahahahahaha. If I was mad it would only be at myself. Now, if by "mad" you mean loony, that's another thing.

Actually, that's what I should have thought of and done. So easy with one of my sanding disks mounted in the drill press.

Anyway, considering all the chiding, teasing, mechanical criticism (some scary), loss of all integrity and dignity, I am sharing a link to the Youtube video I made showing me bumbling and fumbling with my homemade puller. Hoping you find it amusing and good for a laugh, in general, or maybe just at me.  https://youtu.be/SuiQZnIYU-c

Richard L.

[berger]

I would most probably put the nuts on the studs then put bolts through all the other holes and smacked the end of crank with the nut fully tight and I bet bobs ya uncle it's ready to go     Richard that was well worth watching I couldn't stop laughing when it set on fire.

[BigJim]

Great video!! Thank you Richard. Excellent lighting and storytelling commentary. Most impressed with the puller, patent pending i hope. Good luck with setting the stack and the rebuild. More videos please!
 

[Greybeard]

As an insurance advert in the UK says; "Simples!" 

[muskrat]

G'day Richard.
Maaaaate. Sorry but that was painful  . only made it to 2:30 the 1st time Cut the studs shorter. I like the hollow spannere (wrentch). Luv'd the fire Heat the bearing all the way round.
I would have had it off berore you had the first nut done up  You must be retired 
Again sorry somebody has to tell you.
I appreciate the time and effort you put in but a $50 puller can have many uses on a BSA.
Cheers

ps sorry but I'm celerbrating got 2 jobs (full time) to choose from today. 10 beers, 2xdouble rums and a smoke AND the wifes away And Alice cooper on the jukebox. And still in shed 8:30PM.

[Greybeard]

I would have had it off before you had the first nut done up...

Well, OK, but what about the bearing? 

[RichardL]

I would have had it off before you had the first nut done up...

Well, OK, but what about the bearing? 

 

[RichardL]

Musky,

Enjoyed your comments. Others will wish they took your warning regarding the video.

"Cut the studs shorter " Genius! The final piece in the puzzle I needed before setting up Chinese manufacturing and sending it to market.

I made the original version of this work of art (the puller, not the video) somewhere around 2006, so, if it's even imaginable, I knew less about A7/A10 engines than I do now. I figured the modifcation would work, even if it continued the circus. I think the video runs 11 minutes, so, quicker than a round trip to Harbor Freight (as if all the time in fab never happened).

Congrats on the job offers. If I drank 10 beers I couldn't walk, let alone read or type.

Richard L.

[MrShifta]

Hi guys,  I have my 1956 A10 s/a cases on the bench with my crank, with reground small journals, ready to fit. A new C3 RHP roller bearing fitted in the outer case. The roller inner slides onto the crank but not loose.  I do not know the ancestry of the crank but the stuff I bought had a load of A10 plunger bits in so it could be earlier.

I have set up my dial indicator and checked the end float and it is 40 thou ( 0.040" ) It seems miles too much so is there something else I should be looking at. I can turn a spacer to fit behind the inner but 0.040" is hardy a shim.

The Haynes manual talks about shimming both ends of the crank to ensure centralising the crank/conrods ???

Is there a method of checking the central position before I fit conrods etc.

Help.....

[sean]

Hi guys,  I have my 1956 A10 s/a cases on the bench with my crank, with reground small journals, ready to fit. A new C3 RHP roller bearing fitted in the outer case. The roller inner slides onto the crank but not loose.  I do not know the ancestry of the crank but the stuff I bought had a load of A10 plunger bits in so it could be earlier.

I have set up my dial indicator and checked the end float and it is 40 thou ( 0.040" ) It seems miles too much so is there something else I should be looking at. I can turn a spacer to fit behind the inner but 0.040" is hardy a shim.

The Haynes manual talks about shimming both ends of the crank to ensure centralising the crank/conrods ???

Is there a method of checking the central position before I fit conrods etc.

Help.....

how is the bushing face on the timing side  ?

[berger]

has it had a pattern part bronze bush fitted in timing side, yes make a spacer and harden it , your looking for a couple of thou end float when the drive side is all fastened up tight. MR haynes

[MrShifta]

I will go down the workshop in the morning and take the cases apart to check. The bush looked fine with no wear in the bore but I will look at the face. I have some Titanium bar to make a spacer so would save hardening ?

Thanks for the pointers.

The questions of the NF206 main bearing, I got mine from Bearing Revolution in Telford, U.K. it is an RHP, C3 steel cage and cost £48.57 incl vat and P&P.   ( I have no connection to them )

[Swarfcut]

   Have a close look at the crank webs in the area where the timing bush and inner race bear against the crank. Both sides should have a distinct area raised from the face of each web, to act as a bearing surface against the bush and as a seating for the inner race. Any variation from the norm here will result in greater freedom for the crank to float before being shimmed.

 A further error can also be in the thickness of a pattern bush flange and its relationship to the case.  A valid point there from sean, a thicker flanged custom bush may be required.

 I understand the A 50/65 engines had a loose thrust washer here, urban myth? Is this what bergs means?

 On the drive side I have seen cranks with a  recess machined into the face of the web by a loose inner race, the next stage of damage after the crank shims have departed as swarf, the well known result of a too loose cush nut. This wear/damage is always a possible on an unknown crank of dubious source.

 Swarfy.