GB is not OK, again!

[chaterlea25]

Hi GB and All,

I put a blob of grease on the ends of the pushrods in a bid to keep them in the followers
If a pushrod is sitting up on the edge of a follower it is easily noticable as one tappet adjuster position will be very different to the others
I have rebuilt quite a few A7/10 engines for other people over the years
One thing I will not (cannot) do is compromise on the quality of parts I fit, it would come back to bite me on the Ass
   

GB,
On the Feked followers in the pictures, two of them show marking from the pushrods 
Were both these either inlet or exhaust side?
I am just wondering if there's a possibility that something is still amiss with the valves / collets/ springs   
When the engine is back together, turn it over and when each valve is fully open, see if each valve can be levered
down at least a further 60 thou (1.5mm)

I wonder how "soft" those followers are ?? have you tried a file on them?
Now I wonder about the quality (or lack) of in on other parts supplied by Feked

John

[muskrat]

G'day John.
I'd say they sell the same parts the other vendors do. Some good some not so. I can't imagine too many factories putting out parts for old bikes.
Cheers

[chaterlea25]

Hi Muskie,
Probably, 

John

[duTch]

I'm off to bed. I'll respond to this post tomorrow.

       I tried that but had to get up to tell you stories.....


 

...If a pushrod is sitting up on the edge of a follower it is easily noticeable as one tappet adjuster position will be very different to the others....

 Not to forget that one will always be up by default, and if it happens to be an offending inlet, may be same as exhausts,or if an offending Ex., will be significantly higher.... A finger over the top hole will provide some suction.

 Probably been said (or goes without), but after getting the rods in place and a squiz down the tunnel for viz inspection, maybe a rotation of the crank to make sure all are doing up/down as they should (hand pressure to hold them in place- a 'tool' could be made)

[RichardL]

To borrow from Berger, I AM sitting in the pub (or "at the bar") so maybe that's why Dutch seems to be confusing valve up and down with adjusters screwed out too far. Dutch, if I'm  wrong, please just imagine me in a dunce cap.

Richard L.

[duTch]

 Now that's my kind of bar.... but I have a habit of bringing the pub /bar to me.... Not sure what you mean here though-

....so maybe that's why Dutch seems to be confusing valve up and down with adjusters screwed out too far...

...

 Now I am confused 

[RichardL]

John mentioned the tappet adjuster being threaded out too far when the pushrod is on the lip.

 You replied, "Not to forget that one will always be up by default, and if it happens to be an offending inlet, may be same as exhausts,or if an offending Ex., will be significantly higher.."

I'm sure you didn't mean that one tappet adjuster is always screwed out by default. Did I miss something here? Remember I speak Ozzie as a second language.

Richard L.

[duTch]

 Ok,  now I'm with you,  but you've gotten ahead of it....I was still at the stage before adding the R-box,  doing an all round visual on the pushrods to ensure they are installed correctly.
 When happy with that,  *then* the box goes on and hopefully the rods won't move.....after the job is done and valve lash adjusted,  it may be possible to have a look down the tunnel with 'a small mirror and very bright torch'...should one be at hand  (or an endoscope)

[Greybeard]

I put a blob of grease on the ends of the pushrods in a bid to keep them in the followers

Yes, that's good; the pushrods have holes in the end so the grease would seal and work better than oil.

If a pushrod is sitting up on the edge of a follower it is easily noticable as one tappet adjuster position will be very different to the others

I agree, but I didn't see any obvious differences

I have rebuilt quite a few A7/10 engines for other people over the years
One thing I will not (cannot) do is compromise on the quality of parts I fit, it would come back to bite me on the Ass

I hear what you are saying. I trusted that the well-known supplier would not be willing to threaten their reputation by selling crap. Naive? Me?

On the Feked followers in the pictures, two of them show marking from the pushrods 
Were both these either inlet or exhaust side?

I'm afraid I didn't take account of where they came from

I am just wondering if there's a possibility that something is still amiss with the valves / collets/ springs   
When the engine is back together, turn it over and when each valve is fully open, see if each valve can be levered
down at least a further 60 thou (1.5mm)

Will do

I wonder how "soft" those followers are ?? have you tried a file on them?

Yes, I will. I'll have to be careful though, as I'm going to return them and don't want any silly arguments about me damaging them.

Now I wonder about the quality (or lack) of in on other parts supplied by Feked

See my previous comment about them

[Greybeard]

I just tested the hardness of the cheapo cam followers. My penknife blade scratches the unworn part. I also tried a scratch with a sharp centre punch which also marked the surface.

I've just got my new SRM followers and carried out the same tests. Neither tool was able to mark the surface!

[metalflake11]

You've two choices with those old/new followers now GB.

Send them back, or spread them on a nice piece of toast.

[a101960]

I trusted that the well-known supplier would not be willing to threaten their reputation by selling crap. Naive? Me?

Yes, it's an absolute minefield. So easy to get caught out when buying spare parts. I have seen it said many, many, times, that people are not prepared to pay the going rate for top quality stuff. Absolute rubbish it's all to do with profit margins. In my experience Just because you are paying top dollar it does not mean that you are going to get parts that are of a good standard. The trouble is so many parts are sourced from the likes of Wassell and MCA that many dealers are going to be selling you the same bits as everyone else. Unfortunately for us there is no ISO or BSI conformity standards for our old bike bits. You take a gamble every time you buy something. It's difficult to vote with your wallet and take your custom else where under those circumstances.

[Topdad]

Still the most satisfaction could be obtained by returning personally to the company and inserting them in a suitable orifice of the person who sold you the crap !

[RogerSB]

Early last year I bought a clutch pushrod from that company. I emailed them to tell them it was over 1/8" too short and in their reply was that they knew they were short but that's all they had in stock so there's no point in returning it for an exchange but I would have to return it for a refund. I did that and it took 3 weeks and a couple of emails to get them to refund me, probably because I insisted they also refund my postage for insisting I return their useless length of steel  .

I also noticed that they didn't remove the listing for those pushrods. I've not used them since.

[Greybeard]

I'm scratching my head here. I've got the head back on. I've been adjusting the tappets. All ok, except the timing side inlet. I've had to screw the adjuster screw down as far as it will go to get the required 8 Thou gap. Any ideas?