Author Topic: A10 oil pump  (Read 1304 times)

Offline Tumbleweed

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A10 oil pump
« on: 18.07. 2018 18:46 »
hi everybody , the return oil into the oil tank just seems to return in a bubbly dribble although its continual , I removed the pump cleaned it up    striped and   re built it but I cannot get the drive worm to turn by hand unless I loosen off the four screws slightly is this normal ?   I looked at a video on utube  of a bsa return  oil flow but I cant see it properly          hope you can help              TW
Semper in excretia sumus solum profundum veriat.

Online JulianS

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #1 on: 18.07. 2018 19:00 »
Sounds like your pump has distorted. Common with the zinc alloy body.

Offline Tumbleweed

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #2 on: 18.07. 2018 20:40 »
I think you are probably right  I think I will get the electric drill and try and run it in so to speak        thanks   TW
Semper in excretia sumus solum profundum veriat.

Online muskrat

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #3 on: 18.07. 2018 20:49 »
G'day Tumbleweed.
Yes that happens  :(. Now that the gears are out of sinc (I mark them before removal so they go back tooth for tooth) you will need to loosen the screws and spin the drive then tighten the screws (criss cross) a little then spin the drive then tighten the screws a tad and spin again. May take quite a few goes and the odd tap with a hide mallet. Of corse you have oil in the pump whilst doing this.
You will know for next time to keep the gears EXACTLY as they come out but even then it's a job to get it spinning right.
Did you lap the end plate and extension housing to remove the wear marks?
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline Tumbleweed

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #4 on: 18.07. 2018 21:05 »
yes I did musky , I will do as you say perhaps a reshuffle of the gears will improve its performance .   Thanks  TW .  and I will know better next time.   does it run clockwise ?
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Online bsa-bill

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #5 on: 18.07. 2018 22:12 »
the return from the pump contains air due to the return side pumping at a greater rate then the feed side (bigger gears), so bubbles are normal and correct.
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline RichardL

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #6 on: 18.07. 2018 22:44 »
TW,

I suppose you watched the video by bsathatgoesvroom. 8.2K views and that would be the first time I'd heard that someone couldn't see the oil flow. No worries, I'll post another, but it will be next week.

Richard L.

Online mugwump

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #7 on: 18.07. 2018 23:11 »
I remember reading  ( I believe Draganfly motors) that a re-conditioned pump is difficult to turn by hand and not to be fooled in thinking there is something amiss. I have noticed that my Huntmaster always shows a steady stream on the return side to the tank, but on my Matchless the return is always spluttery. I believe the Matchy is bubbly because the flow and return hoses are 1/2" bore, whereas the H'master as with A10's its only 1/8". The larger bore hose will enhance the effect of the stronger return than the flow ( hence dry sump ) these pumps are designed to do. If the A10 return is not a steady flow then there may be an air leak in the system. Hope that makes sense!

60'Matchy G12
58 AJS 18s
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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #8 on: 19.07. 2018 02:19 »
G'day mugwump.
I beg to differ. The A10/Huntmaster pumps return at a greater volume than the feed. So after it has cleared any drain back or wet sump oil (it may take a few minutes) it will start to show bubbles in the return to the tank. If it's a continuous flow ALL the time the scavenge side of the pump needs attention and sooner or later you'll have a sump full.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline Billybream

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #9 on: 19.07. 2018 04:24 »
There,s a guy on Ebay who refurbs A10 pumps and or offers service exchange, he,s based in Hampshire.
I have no personal involvement but just thought might be an option to try and his feedback is good.
1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966, back on the road 2012 after being laid up for 29yrs.

Offline duTch

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #10 on: 19.07. 2018 07:44 »

 Tee-Dubbaya, what revs are you doing at that analysis ? As B-Bill says, that sounds normal at low revs (idle), but if at riding speed I'll tip my hat for trick riding to be able to even see the tank, let alone undo the cap and see inside..... *conf2*

 nb- aaahnaah...
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
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Online scotty

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #11 on: 19.07. 2018 09:00 »
I also had a refurb oil pump from Dfly fitted on my A
Worked well enough
Following year I fitted an SRM oil pump
What a visual difference in the return flow
If ya don’t mind splurging $$$$$$ it’s a good component to fit

S

Scotty

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Offline Tumbleweed

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #12 on: 19.07. 2018 09:09 »
Thanks everyone ,  very helpful.    TW
Semper in excretia sumus solum profundum veriat.

Online orabanda

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #13 on: 19.07. 2018 11:28 »
I have got a few A10's / A7's, and have spent thousands of dollars on the engine in each bike.
The cost of a new pump is relatively small compared to what has been spent on the rest of the engine.

Years ago I was able to find two new cast iron pumps; the other bikes have SRM pumps.

I have a collection of original mazak pumps that have been replaced, including one that suddenly failed; a major fatigue crack at the drive end of the housing.

We are lucky that a quality pump (SRM) is being manufactured; support them AND be confident your engine won't fail.

Richard

Online JulianS

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Re: A10 oil pump
« Reply #14 on: 19.07. 2018 12:24 »
If I bought a recon pump it would have to have a new body at least. The tightening over the years distorts the zinc alloy body including the shape of the oil chambers (you may notice that the screws which fix the body together are tight as the holes have been crush, expect the oil chambers to be similarly slightly crushed) and although you may be able to "run in" the high spots you cannot fill in the low spots, nor can you remove the wear in the spindle holes which is where you oil pressure goes and wet sumping comes.