Author Topic: Tyres  (Read 4349 times)

Offline Worty

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Tyres
« on: 08.08. 2018 14:44 »
Yeah, me again.  Please direct me to any relevant threads on this.

I've got a 3.50 Mitas on the back, the last one did 3k miles and was generally fine.  However, on some road surfaces I get a bit of 'wander' and wondered if this was common.  Alignment is good (eyeballed), no uneven wear, wheel bearings and swing arm have no movement, chains and sprockets have no noticeable wear after 5k miles.  Corners pretty well considering the chain, gearbox, primary throw a bit of oil on it from time to time - I can get my shoe on the floor on some roundabouts/corners *eek*  (righthanders mainly as I don't trust the oil on the lefthanders and finding myself gliding toward the grille on a 44 tonner).

Should I fit a 4.00 x 19?  Is the 'wander' a problem? (isn't there all the time).  Is there a longer lasting, stickier tyre out there at a reasonable price?
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Offline LJ.

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #1 on: 08.08. 2018 14:51 »
Is front and rear wheels lined up? Is the rear wheel bearing retainer come undone? I had this problem that led to wandering.
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Offline Worty

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #2 on: 08.08. 2018 15:00 »
Cheers LJ.  Alignment is pretty good.  Would the bearing retainer create play in the wheel if it had come loose?  Can't detect any play in the wheel whilst in situ.
Current Bikes😎
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Offline LJ.

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #3 on: 08.08. 2018 15:08 »
Yes! I do remember that a loose retainer DID creat play and it did regularly come loose, Just cannot remember how I rectified the problem... probably I used a loctite on the thread. With bike on centre stand and back wheel off the ground you may feel play on the back wheel which feels like the bearing is shot...but in my case it was bearing retainer. I think I remember it is a common problem... probably discussed somewhere on forum in the past.
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Offline Worty

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #4 on: 08.08. 2018 15:23 »
Cheers mate.  No play in wheel which isn't buckled either?  Maybe I'm stuffing it into corners too quickly?
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Offline LJ.

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #5 on: 08.08. 2018 15:56 »
Personally I'd line up the wheels better than by eye.... http://laurence.swain.me.uk/lining-up-wheels.htm My Blue A10 corners and rides superbly, I use Dunlop TT100, tyre pressures are 30 and 35 psi. Have you got correct pressures? I'd think you probably have... Likely someone else will chip in soon with further ideas.
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Offline a101960

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #6 on: 08.08. 2018 16:10 »
And here is another alternative for wheel alignment. I made one of these (cheap to make) the lasers were £3 each in pound stretchers or somewhere like that. Works brilliantly. http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/wheelalignment.html

Offline LJ.

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #7 on: 08.08. 2018 16:26 »
Looks better than my one John, thanks for posting!

And here is another alternative for wheel alignment. I made one of these (cheap to make) the lasers were £3 each in pound stretchers or somewhere like that. Works brilliantly. http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/wheelalignment.html
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Offline Worty

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #8 on: 08.08. 2018 16:59 »
I'm happy with the alignment by eye, been doing it for years, but I do think there's a slight issue with the way the front wheel was laced up as it runs closer to the left hand fork than the right by a few mls.  Think I'll look at that first and see if it changes anything.  Don't get me wrong, I've ridden much worse and you adjust to the way each bike rides.  Generally, I fling it into corners quite confidently, it was just the odd twitch that made me think.

Cheers guys, your input is much appreciated. *smile*
Current Bikes😎
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'49 B31
'59 BMW R60
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MZ250

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #9 on: 08.08. 2018 20:39 »
Hi,
Quote
Is there a longer lasting, stickier tyre out there at a reasonable price?

One can only aim for two out of three of the above  *roll*

What you are more than likely feeling is the tyre going "off"
it happens with I suspect all tyres  *????* certainly with Avon and Metzeler
Mitas is a budget tyre, I do not have experience with them,
It's maybe a self confidence issue *????* but I will only use "Quality" brands

John
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Online Black Sheep

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #10 on: 08.08. 2018 21:52 »
I use Avon Speedmaster 3.25 on the front, SM Mk II 3.50 on the back. Handles beautifully.
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Offline duTch

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #11 on: 08.08. 2018 22:10 »

 I have to add air much every week to both bikes, on the Beeza it doesn't seem to matter much at town speed can be down to 15& 20 and still rides fine, but last week put them up to 32/35 and noticed a difference.....(from the usual ~28/~30)..

 However- the Gutzzly is far more sensitive, probably due to heavier, but feels road surface more as they wear, especially when the surface has been profiled for re-surfacing, and the over-painted lines at light-intersections...

 I also noticed a change in wear patterns from my daily riding in the country (up/down a windy range- edge wear front goes 'pointy'), to daily riding spending more time in town- more braking-front is flatter

 The head-stock bearings can also make a difference if too tight or loose....

 All in all, good pressure is one up on low pressure, and new tyres are up on that...

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Online morris

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #12 on: 08.08. 2018 22:24 »
I have Mitas on both (4.00 H-02 at the back and 3.25 H-01 upfront)
Find them very good but need to be kept well pressurized at 32-35 PSI.
If the pressure drops below 30 PSI they do have a tendency to "wander" slightly
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Offline Worty

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #13 on: 09.08. 2018 09:25 »
Very interesting comments, thanks.

I also find I have to add pressure every week - check them prior to every trip.  Maybe they could do with a few extra pounds (to match me, heh). *beer*  Currently run them on about 32 R and 30 F.  Headstock bearings are good, but I allow for a minute amount of play so's not to overtighten and cause more issues.  The Mitas I have is new, and better than the one I took off.  Before that it was a Chen Shin which was great until it wore, then it was horrible.  Rears seem to last me no more than 3000m, which seems common for the more 'spirited' rider.  However, the desire to not see the bike stuffed into a hedge does does reign me back in a bit.  Chen Shin on the front is brilliant.
Current Bikes😎
Kwaka W650
'61 Flash

Past Bikes👍
'49 B31
'59 BMW R60
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MZ250

Offline muskrat

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Re: Tyres
« Reply #14 on: 09.08. 2018 09:43 »
G'day wortluck.
Good handling is the sum of many factors, most of which have been mentioned. First I'd address the front wheel to be centered in the forks. Tyres with a continuous center groove will follow road irregularities.
I align by eye or use a stringline see here
 https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=8025.msg56428#msg56428
The tyres are what's holding your idiot off the ground. I love my skin so buy quality tyres. Avon AM26 Road Riders on both my BSA's 34psi front, 36psi rear.
Cheers
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