Tyres

[Worty]

Cheers musky, didn't get the 'holding your idiot off the ground' bit though - is this a typo??

I use eye and string technique.  Had it double checked once and it was spot on - didn't want to get too fussy.  I've looked into the AM26s and, whilst they look and handle well, just seem a bit out of character for the bike.  Don't get me wrong, I'm prepared to accept that if you go for cheaper, more traditional, tyres then the handling could be compromised a little, and I'd make adjustments for that.

Since getting back on the road, I want to try different combos to see what the best set up is.  I definitely wouldn't go for Chen Shins on the back again as I think it's an awful tyre (the one on front is excellent though).  Mitas have been ok, but would probably go for something else next time just to try it out.  I reckon when I've found the best set up, I'll stick with what works.

Now to sort that front wheel issue.

[duTch]

 I meant to say earlier that I reckon it's an important starting point to ensure the rear axle and G'box mainshaft are parallel, not just for wheel alignment/tracking, but also for chain/sprocket life.

 I think I've figured an easy way to do this with our Plunger models, but S/A owners will need to do their own research...

[LJ.]

Cheers musky, didn't get the 'holding your idiot off the ground' bit though - is this a typo??

I doubt it's a typo... I'm guessing it's Musky's Aussie humour... We are the idiots riding old bikes! 

[RogerSB]

Dunlop K70s front and rear on my GF.
I always carry a pillion so front 18 psi and rear 26 psi.
I also use the string method but find it difficult with the mainstand always in the way.

[Worty]

Heh, guess you're right LJ, wasn't sure if it was a typo or humour or whether he was referring to bike, rider or both. C'mon Musky, wot's yer point.

Incidentally, I've just measured between rim and forks and the front wheel does seem to be central-ish (about 5cm from rim to centre of lower slider).  What seems to have thrown me is that I've discovered the front mudguard is a bit twisted and the upper mudguard bracket on the left hand side is bent out to compensate, thus giving the impression the wheel was running closer to the left hand side.  Maybe that should have occurred to me earlier but, hey, who's perfect ......... eh ...........Musky?

[Worty]

Jeez RogerSB, those pressures seem low for solo riding let alone with pillion - I stand to be corrected.

[berger]

French made TT100s on my beast and there lovely for chucking her into  corners and powering out , on the odd occasion the GF is on the back she will shout for me to go back and do it again, no fear that women,i get more scared than her when she wants a repeat performance

[LJ.]

Berger... In the pub or out? we need to know, but TT100s I agree are brilliant for chucking bike around corners.

Where 'GF' is mentioned I DO have to re read if it's Girl Friend or Golden Flash! hahaha. Repeat performance! you should be so lucky. 

18psi is low for a solo rider let alone two up, and we wonder about bike wandering. 

[RogerSB]

Jeez RogerSB, those pressures seem low for solo riding let alone with pillion - I stand to be corrected.

The important thing is that the Dunlop K70 is still manufactured to 1960s specification but with modern materials. It's designed for classic motorcycles.
K70 front is 57P (max load 230kg/36st), rear is 54P (max load 212kg/33st), both tyres rated for 93mph max speed.
BSA A7 & A10 instruction book and others state pressures of 18 psi for front and 21 psi for rear for GF but rear can be increase to 28 psi when carrying a pillion.

I've never noticed anything amis - but then I keep my speed to under 60 mph these days, not only in consideration of my own age but also of my Golden Flash's 58 years.

(Edit): I did read somewhere that for every 100kg in weight over 160kg (which is the load the manufacturer's work to) increase the pressures by 2 psi).

[berger]

LJ I am just off for my medication now plenty black and tan, yes girl friend, mines a shooting star engine and yes repeat performance of that kind not happened for a while

[lawnmowerman]

I read in one of the other forums (or is it Fora) which I post on that the rubber used in modern tyres is a lot softer than older tyres of the same type and manufacturer. Somebody contacted a tyre manufacturer and was informed that the minimum in a bike modern rear tyre should be 33psi and 25psi in the front.

Jim

[RogerSB]

Now I'm worried  .

I've been setting my tyre pressures as per the instruction books of the time (i.e. 1960s).  I've just emailed Dunlop to ask the question, giving them tyre spec., weight of bike, rider, and pillion, so hopefully I'll get some useful info back.

[RogerSB]

Wow! quick reply from Dunlop  .

Edit: I've now also attached my email to Dunlop (which I didn't before) to emphasize my question was about Dunlop Gold Seal K70 tyres and not other tyres.

[muskrat]

G'day fellas.
Re "idiot" off the ground. I'm sure I wrote idiot meaning bum/buttocks/ass. Must be like when you type japanese it turns to Japanese!
I always go for V rated tyres. From the Avon web page.
Ideal for mid-range bikes
    Large contact patch for excellent grip at all lean angles  That's me
    149mph/240kmh speed rating across the range             That's me
    Central tread grooves to resist 'white-lining'
    Comprehensive range of sizes - from modern to more traditional
    Performance upgrade for classic and vintage motorcycles
Cheers
edit see what I mean I did type J a p and a r s e

[lawnmowerman]

Wow! quick reply from Dunlop  .

Thanks Roger
Must have been a different manufacturer (Avon?)
I had better deflate my Dunlop tyres on all my bikes. I wondered why my fillings were falling out - thought it was the potholes

Jim