What have you done with your bike/s today?

[Worty]

Cheers RD, is it likely to have fallen into my gearbox?

[berger]

it should be the lever actuating arm fixed in the adjusting screw

[Greybeard]

it should be the lever actuating arm fixed in the adjusting screw

Yes but it seems adding a ball in the centre of the clutch pushrod is a thing.

[Worty]

My pushrod is in one piece, and the clutch operated fine.  Without checking the adjuster on the gearbox lever/actuator, I just wanted to know if it carried a ball bearing (which I suspected it did), and whether the bearing was captured or free floating.  If the latter, I would have expected the bearing to drop into the gearbox outer cover when the pushrod was removed and the gearbox tilted over.  It would seem, however, that the bearing is captured in the adjuster and won't fall out - will double check though.

Cheers all!

[berger]

worty it's not in your engine , those strays are out now

[Worty]

 

[muskrat]

G'day Worty.
The ball is captured in the screw part # 65-3403. It shouldn't fall out but if it did 
Cheers

[Worty]

Done nowt with the bike today after collecting motor from Bergs.  Was sitting in seeing if the steering lock would arrive early so I could fix before needing the car on Thursday.  Although expected Weds, it turned up at 2.30pm, so went out to take a look.  The whole lot went back a lot better than I thought, and was up and running by 3.45pm just as it was turning dark.  Had a yellow steering wheel light, but that went out very quickly.

Quick question:  Would the work I've done on the steering lock and not putting the steering wheel on exactly straight have any bearing on why it pulls to the left a bit.  I don't drive that car so much these days (mainly Sue), so have not noticed it before.  I'm suspecting alignment or tyre pressure, maybe a bit of suspension wear, but just wanted to check as it's the first time I've done this job.

I'm not making any comment that refers to the job above and the battle Bergs had with my motor

[RDfella]

Putting a steering wheel on cockeyed won't make a vehicle pull to one side. I realise moderns have electric PAS, but even they should not be affected by the wheel. I remember the days we'd go on road test and take the wheel off to re-align centrally while we were driving. Or the time I drove with mole grips replacing the steering wheel.... Lots of things we did back then wouldn't be tolerated today.
 

[Worty]

Cheers RD.  I thought it would be weird if that did happen, but with PAS and steering angle sensors, I did wonder a little.  Logically, there should be no influence on the steering itself as there is no correlation with steering wheel position and the way it drives.  I reckon I'll centre the wheel up as best I can then get the alignment checked, I'm sure it's that.

Having said all that, very pleased with self for stripping it all down and shoving it together so it works.  Always satisfying to complete a job that actually does, especially with modern motors.  Why the hell can't they stick to screwing things together instead of using plastic clips that are a b*****d to get to.

[RDfella]

My business started out 95% automotive (mainly rebuilding engines and mini gearboxes) but morphed into 95% marine engineering. Still did a few car repairs for my regular customers, but now retired - and wouldn't touch a modern car. Lift the bonnet these days and I can't even tell if it's petrol or diesel - just one plastic blob. And, as WL says, not only is everything plastic, but how the hell do you get it apart without breaking things? Those plastic clips are a real bugger, often getting destroyed on removal.

[Worty]

If you have an ide moment, RD, just look up on Youtube a steering lock replacement for Skoda Octavia Mk2 and see the faff.  Especially tricky is the PCB under the instrument cluster that everything plugs into.  For the front clip, you have to insert a 1.5mm piece of wire or similar, and move it to your left.  Granted, there's a small hold and channel to facilitate this, but no such luck on the rear one which requires a long handled mini hook to get behind it to release.  The ignition switch requires similar 'tools' pushed outwards and pulled out, and the barrel is turning the key to on to align hole with punch mark, insert 1.5mm wire and push down on the wire hard to release the catch.  Took a full day to get everything apart, and 75 minutes to put the whole lot back together!!!

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
Yesterday I was able (only just) to take the A7 for a decent ride after the motor rebuild. Considering she is now run in. Not a long ride, only about 100Km. Quite happy, no noises or oil leaks . I could hardly walk after but I loved every second.
A good mate (my best man) and his squeeze came for a few days so I thought it be a good idea to take them for a ride as backup. Me on the A7 them on my HD. Well the HD didn't want to play. Electrickal gremlin stopped that so they jumped on the Rhonda. Got to Hampton pub, bugga not open till 4pm. Rode to rydal pub, Bugga closed till January! OK home for coldies in the fridge.
Today I'll find the gremlin in the HD.
Cheers

[bikerbob]

Went out yesterday to start both bikes which are laid up for the winter A7 started and ran perfectly but the A65 started ok but I noticed it would not hold charge with headlight on I fitted new alternator and rotor about 3 years ago so suspected the regulator rectifier took it off tested it as per instructions on internet tested OK. Did a voltage test on the alternator on tickover only getting about 7 volts increse revs and can only get max 10 volts. The bike is converted to 12volts and has a single phase 12 volt alternator fitted, is there anthing else I should check before I purchase a new alterntor. It is going to have to wait until the new year before I strip the primary side down.

[muskrat]

G'day Bob.
I hate electrickals but to me it sounds like one of the windings in the stator has gone west.

I had a look at the HD. The problem was it started and ran fine but as soon as a pillion got on the starter motor engaged  , pillion off and all good. There is no wires under the pillion seat and the seat base is plastic. I put a sheet of rubber over the electricks and put seat back on with same results. Off with the seat and start the motor. Press down on all the bits but couldn't get it to happen. The only thing I could see was the earth lead (car thickness) was over the top of the starter relay (cheap plastic). Rerouted it, seat back on, all good  .

Today I have to look at the A7's electricks. On the ride the other day I noticed the amp gauge  was showing 8 amps at anything over 30mph in top  . If I ran the headlight it would drop to 0 but at 60mph would be back up to 4 amps. At idle with the light on it would read -4amps which I'd expect. Std E3L with DVR2 for 12v and Boyer ignition, small 4amp AGM battery. If I can't work it out I'll post in the right section.
Cheers, Merry Bah Humbug.