Author Topic: Rattle  (Read 5215 times)

Offline edboy

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #45 on: 11.09. 2018 22:45 »
sorry to hear your still having problems greybeard.  are you sure one of the chaincase bolts isnt too long and kissing the crank. it happens to me on virtually every one of my rebuilds.
more serious would be a small end bush extracting, a gudgeon pin rubbing the barrel or worse of all would be the roller bearing outer spinning .
i would remove spark plugs and drive chain and with mole grips spin the engine and listen for any contact or rubbing.

Offline Seabee

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #46 on: 11.09. 2018 23:24 »
GB,

I feel so bad for your troubles. You definitely get an "A" for tenacity! Many might have thrown in the towel after dealing with all of your problems with this engine.'
My problem is that the least little noise in one of my bikes always means to me that the crank is about to fall on the ground! Not saying that you don't have a problem that needs investigating, but sometimes we are more critical of our own machine noises than we would be of others.
My Super Rocket has had a noisy valve train ever since I rebuilt it. I have checked everything twice, including trying an iron head! It now has a couple of thousand miles on it with no appreciable wear (valve clearance stays the same) and the rockers are always coated in oil.
The Road Rocket is quiet as a mouse. No odd noises anywhere. I did screw up and install an oil pressure gauge on it. Pressure is great cold, underway hot, but hot idle, scary low! The bottom end had been rebuilt before I got it after kicking out both rods!!!!! *eek*
I love the SRM idea, but being a builder of automotive and diesel engines, it kills me to think of paying someone else more to build an A10 than it would cost me to build a V-8 hot rod gas engine!
Anyway, Godspeed..

Seabee
1961 Super Rocket
1957 Road Rocket
2009 Harley Electra Glide Classic
1993 Harley Springer Softtail
1970 Harley Sportster Chopper
1982 Yamaha XT550
2001 KTM EXC 400
1970 Honda CT70
Southern Illinois, USA

Online RichardL

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #47 on: 12.09. 2018 00:18 »
GB,

You may be so frustrated that you're sick of opinions by now. You know what they say, opinions ore like asses, everyone's got one.

Anyway, I've taken a new, quite long listen to your video, running it in a loop. I am now rather convinced that the noise is at the rocker box. If you watch and listen closely, you hear the noise with  great clarity when directly in line with the rocker box. When the camera rises above the bottom of the tank, the noise is attenuated. I believe this is due to being shadowed by the tank. When the camera moves downward from the rocker box the noise continues but with less definition than at the rocker box. I believe the similarity in loudness near the covers is due to reflection off the bottom of the tank. If the noise were coming from behind the timing or drive-side covers, there would not be such a distinct drop off due to rising above the bottom of the tank.

I'll send this now and may give another listen later with fresh ears.

Just trying to live up to my former user name.

Richard L. 

Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline RDfella

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #48 on: 12.09. 2018 12:25 »
I must admit the idea of a piston skirt hitting the crank is not one I would have thought of. But I think it's unlikely. Pistons don't expand uniformley -that's why they're made barrel-shaped so they're round when hot. The top of the piston will expand more than the skirt - that's upwards. The conrod will lengthen with heat too, counteracting any growth downwards of the skirt (because the alloy rod expands more with heat than the cast iron cylinder).
But I know how you feel, GB. Despite meticulous attention whilst rebuilding my GF, I had a pile of grief with it. Lots of odd things that never happened before with other bikes, which is why this forum is so useful.
There have been a number of suggestions as to what may be causing your noise, and clearly you're not going to be relaxed until you've found the culprit. If it were my bike, I'd run a piece of straight-grained wood over it as a stethoscope. Hopefully that will pinpoint the area, though it's not guaranteed. Engines can be funny things - I recall one car engine (can't remember exactly which one now) where a noise obviously from the flywheel area was actually coming from the front. Or a slight knocking noise from a 6cyl marine diesel engine which turned out to be the crank broken in two places.
Anyway, assuming the noise is not from the chaincase, it's tank off and check tappets. If OK, start disassembly, taking careful note for witness marks of anything untoward. You shouldn't have to go any further than lifting the barrels (leaving pistons inside) which would enable you to check camshaft and bottom of piston skirt.  There's a minefield of other stuff that could be a cause of noise, for example new pistons in old bores will cause the top ring to clatter or even break unless the bores are honed first, or the profile of new cam followers not being exactly right for the cam. The list is almost endless. If it's any consolation, my newly-rebuilt GF makes quite a few noises I didn't expect, but I'm not too concerned because after 50 plus years of rebuilding most types of engine I'm fairly confident I can tell the difference between something irritating and something that needs investigation before it gets serious.
'49 B31, '49 M21, '53 DOT, '58 Flash, '00 Firestorm, Weslake sprint bike.

Online Greybeard

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #49 on: 12.09. 2018 21:20 »
Thanks chaps. I'm not going to be able to work on the bike till next week. I'll report back when I can.

Online RichardL

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #50 on: 12.09. 2018 22:22 »
I'll be out fettling in your shed. Keep the tea warm.

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Online Greybeard

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #51 on: 13.09. 2018 10:40 »
I'll be out fettling in your shed. Keep the tea warm.

Richard L.
Got some nice coffee here. Come and get it!

Offline jachenbach

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #52 on: 13.09. 2018 14:03 »
Listening to the videos, to me it sounds like tapping is 1/2 time of revolutions. I'm betting it's in the valve train.

Online Greybeard

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #53 on: 18.09. 2018 11:19 »
Well, so much for BSA time. *sad2* My son's Ford has failed its annual safety test, (MOT) so to save him money I'm working on it! Yesterday I changed the front brake discs and pads. Pretty simple. Today I'm trying to figure out why there are no brake lights. I've just joined a Ford forum to ask for ideas.

Online duTch

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #54 on: 18.09. 2018 11:35 »
 Every day I see multiple cars with faulty brake lights (sometimes three or four in a line), and do my best to let them know (they usually first freak out)....I usually suggest the too obvious bulbs or fuses. I was told years ago to not bother with cheap bulbs, and seldom have problems since...otherwise bad earth, but I daresay you've already checked all that *dunno*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
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Online Greybeard

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #55 on: 18.09. 2018 12:34 »
Every day I see multiple cars with faulty brake lights (sometimes three or four in a line), and do my best to let them know...

Yes, I've often informed drivers that they have a brake light out. Usually, I get a thank you but sometimes just a blank look!

I'm not sure where to start on the car really. Auto's these days have strange wiring. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus

The high-level LED brake light does work. The car appears to have four stop/tail lights. The tail lights all work but none of the brake filaments work.

To be honest I've really got zero enthusiasm for this task! I'm hoping someone will pop up on the Ford forum and say "Oh, there's a multi-pin connector under the passenger seat. Just pull it apart and connect it up again"

Offline Topdad

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #56 on: 18.09. 2018 14:43 »
gb just a general idea but the last time I had a ford an escort I think ,quite some time ago, the brake lights knackered and it was the usual ford crap system of using a feed to multiple thin metal  strips in the light unit itself and then onto the other , they corrode and I simply bridged the breaks by soldering wires either side of the break . If you take the rear light unit out of the fitting you'll be able to leave the side lights on and can identify which wire should be bringing the stop light power, then just check if it as  power by asking Mrs GB to press the brake pedal if you find it's live  it's going to be easy ,if not I'd have to call the auto elecy cheers bob
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Online Greybeard

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #57 on: 18.09. 2018 15:35 »
TopDad,
I think I was just not with it earlier. After lunch I found out how to remove the rear light lenses and used my Multimeter to check for supply, just as you suggest. Although the car has big lamp clusters on both the body and the tailgate I discovered that only the body lenses have stop lamps, both bulbs were blown. New bulbs, problem sorted.

The lamps on the tailgate use double filament bulbs but only one filament is used, (as a tail light). This was contributing to my tiny mind being befuddled!

Offline Topdad

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #58 on: 18.09. 2018 16:36 »
On my toyota changing a bulb was a nightmare ,bloody cars !
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Online duTch

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Re: Rattle
« Reply #59 on: 18.09. 2018 19:24 »

 In addition to my previous comment, it's a bitch when a car comes to a lazy stop on a slight upgrade and no lights come on-as I probably do a lot. That can indicate they didn't use the brake, or no lights working  *conf* I tell 'em to check them anyway, have seen several where none work- at least if one out of three or four work I know there's a problem..... Those town 4 x 4's with the dummy lights had me stumped when only the bumper lights work *conf2*

 Good it's sorted, we can stop hijacking now
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia