BSA A7 pedal issues/queries

[RichardL]

I would go along with Swarfcut's suggestion being as you have the better(?) single sided hubs, along with the fork sliders and swinging arm to suit.  It looks like a minor frame/bush jobbie as per Julian S  2nd picture......Good luck.

I go along with modifying the frame to add the pedal boss as per Julian's 2nd picture, wherein the pivot position is a la '54-'55 swingarm frames. Your frame is a '57 (or thereabouts) that the PO decided should have half-width hubs. I can't see going with this part of Swarfy's  suggestion:

 A left hand cable set up using the S/A hollow spindle to mount the pedal would avoid the change in braking effort as the suspension moves up and down.

It seems just as much work without giving any form of originality, while introducing what some describe as the less definite feel of cable pull versus rod pull.  (Swarfy, apologies if I have misunderstood you and you feel obliged to shout "bollocks.")

Richard L.

[Greybeard]

...where is the Introduction/ Bio tab located?

Here:
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?board=13.0

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
Yes I agree modifying the frame to add the rod type pedal pivot is the way to go,
Check the swingarm pivots suit the smaller solid pin before doing anything
If the pin is the larger size for the crossover shaft, I would use that type of pedal and add a rod pull to it
The most difficult part of it is finding the "Touring " gold star pedal
They are scarce and sought after by ageing Goldie owners

John

[Swarfcut]

 Hi Richard....No offence taken, no worries.     

   As I see it, in the short term all options need to be kept open. Butchering the frame takes away the possible original unmolested status, as does adding a pedal pivot support plate. On the face of it swapping the solid S/A solid spindle for a hollow one (Assuming the OD is the same) would allow the use of the bore as a pedal pivot. Then modifying the brake pedal for rod or cable means the bike becomes useable with the option to change back to the original type of full width hubs as and when.  The long through shaft will give lots of support, compared to the Slack Alice sideways movement of the pedal, as found on a typical plunger frame. 

  At the end of the day it is the owner's choice, I just offered my suggestions in the light of my experiences.

  OK Matt, decision time.....(maybe)

  Swarfy

[muskrat]

G'day Matt.
I'd go along with Swarfy's method. You could use the original brake pedal 42-4347 and add the piece to take the rod or use the arm off the other side (A65 type 68-7020) and put on the pivot shaft outside the pedal to take the rod. The pivot shaft 42-4349 will need something fixed to it the other end.
Cheers

[kiwipom]

hi guys,bsargs650 says ( There is no back-stabbing here, it is done in the front ), love it great,cheers

[laneplodder]

Hi folks,

Many thanks for all your very sound advice on this subject..particular thanks to Swarfy, RichardL, chaterlea25, muskrat and scotty - too many to list! but thanks again to all..

Hope to be in touch when something is functioning well - with whatever setup it turns out to be! 

Matt

[kiwipom]

hi guys, Laneplodder i did the full width brake drums some time ago with the cast iron not ali ones. Bit of a mission but i like them, had to get crossover swing arm tube and spindle plus modify my swing arm by making an anchor for the brake plate to connect to instead of sourcing the correct swing arm. The crossover spindle has splined ends so a splined brake peddle and lever are needed, good luck if that is what you want to do but a bit of work involved, cheers