Author Topic: original oil gallery  (Read 700 times)

Offline kiwipom

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #15 on: 01.01. 2019 21:36 »
hi Worn, nice fix but if you have a duplicate spare key, throw it away!! cheers
A10.G.Flash(cafe racer)Honda 250 vtr. Yamaha Virago XV920.

War! what is it good for?Absolutely nothing, Edwin Star.
NewZealand

Offline worntorn

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #16 on: 01.01. 2019 23:04 »
Yes, I did that 4 years ago when I fitted the valve.
Or more truthfully, I taped the spare key to a hidden spot on the bike.
I'll only use it if out on tour and main key gets lost. Out on tour means oil is on.
I only shut it off if the bike is laid up.
I've thought it thru, it isn't going to get started without oil.

Glen

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #17 on: 02.01. 2019 00:36 »
Hi Glen, Did you make that ball valve setup out of a ordinary ball valve or did you buy it like that? seem a good idea to me as my A10 has electronic ignition so have to switch it on to make start. I can go a week without draining, but not two! My A7 can go months without having to drain it.
Cheers & happy new year to all,
Peter *beer*

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline worntorn

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #18 on: 02.01. 2019 01:02 »
Hi Peter

I made it up from an ordinary SS ball valve purchased on eBay for a few dollars.

Glen

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #19 on: 02.01. 2019 01:07 »
Thanks Glen I will give it a go.
Peter

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline worntorn

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #20 on: 02.01. 2019 01:20 »
1. Make small lip piece out of stainless for Tig welding to ball valve body. I used some light ss 90 degree angle stock for this. It had to be cut down on both legs.
2. Take ball valve apart to avoid damage to seals during welding.
3. Make aluminium fob piece with lip to match stainless piece . Also make a square hole in the fob so that it operates the ball valve shaft.
4. Everything has to line up so that when the fob has been used to turn off the valve, the lip on the fob slides under the lip on the ball valve ss angle  piece. Now the fob cannot be removed from the ball valve.
5. Securely attach the ignition key to the fob. I drilled a hole in the fob and attached the key with a 10/32 ss screw and self locking nut.
Tape on a second regular key somewhere hidden on the bike and dispose of any other spare ignition keys.

Glen

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #21 on: 02.01. 2019 05:57 »
Thanks again Glen, did you use a 1/4 or 3/8 valve?
cheers
Peter

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline worntorn

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #22 on: 02.01. 2019 17:38 »
I used a 3/8 ball valve. The oil hose on that bike is also 3/8 so when the ball valve is open there is no added restriction.
Bit of a push over the 3/8" barb fittings but it went and doesn't leak with just smooth chromed ferrules as clamps.

This is the valve. I found the 3/8" ss barbs for it locally.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Stainless-Steel-316-Mini-Ball-Valve-FxF-NPT-/121166954315

Glen

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #23 on: 02.01. 2019 23:33 »
Thanks Glen for the link but there shipping cost to Oz of over $50 USD is a bit over the fence I will try to find one locally.
Cheers
Peter

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline worntorn

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Re: original oil gallery
« Reply #24 on: 03.01. 2019 04:18 »
You would think $10 shipping would be enough on such a small part.
I just had 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves shipped from Oz to Canada for about $15 US.

Glen