Author Topic: oil Pump Condition  (Read 972 times)

Offline Spow11

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oil Pump Condition
« on: 31.03. 2019 22:18 »
Evening gents,
I've had the pump apart and cleaned up the end plates so I'm wondering are these parts serviceable?
From the image (attached) one can see the wear marks on the end plates and in the pump body gear housing there is a circumferential gouge.
The drive end plate has what looks like corrosion in the face.

Comments appreciated.   


Online Greybeard

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #1 on: 31.03. 2019 23:04 »
The only possibly useful comment I can make is that I stripped the pump on my bike, cleaned it up and reassembled it and found that it would no longer turn by hand. The gears need to go back exactly to their mates. I bought a new steel pump from John Phelan.

Online Slymo

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #2 on: 01.04. 2019 00:04 »
The two end plates can be resurfaced and the body where it bolts up against the engine can also be faced off. The steel back plate will probably require milling because anything less precise is likely to cause more problems than solutions. I completely agree that if you haven't kept the relationship of the cogs then you have a bit of work to do dis and reassembling to ensure the smooth action of the pump. Any tight spots are to be avoided. To be frank I'm not sure how much efficiency the pump would lose with those witness marks. The pitting perhaps more so but remember the pump provides more oil than the engine can use and a small drop in output is probably not the end of the world. A good flow back into the oil tank tells you that all is pretty ok imho.
NZ

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #3 on: 01.04. 2019 08:59 »
As pumps go, that one looks pretty good. I have almost convinced myself it is a cast iron body, (or maybe just a trick of the light) and the score is in the scavenge (larger) chamber. The wear marks on the end plate are relatively minor, but more importantly the sharp edges of the chamber  appear undamaged, which is good. If it was mine, I would use it without question. If you are not inclined to retain it, use it as a trade in with one of the established suppliers of new or recon pumps.

 Check all the gears have the same tooth profile. Several different types were used, they may have been mixed and matched in an earlier life.

 As mentioned, the gears like to be returned to their original positions if possible, but in all honesty I do not know anyone who actually ever achieved this. So the trick is to start with one gear, then add its chamber partner, moving this gear  tooth by tooth to achieve the most free rotation.
 Once happy with this, and all gears freely rotating, add the spindle housing and end plate, but tighten gently, also twisting the three parts, spindle housing, body and plate as the bolts are tightened, turning the drive spindle all the time, making sure free rotation is maintained as the parts settle and are finally tightened.  Sometimes the gears will turn easily but lock up when the drive spindle is added, this can usually be fixed by refitting the spindle but rotated by half a turn. There is more information elsewhere on the Forum

 Remember this forum is world wide, and you may want to consider another way of posting your pictures.

 Swarfy.

 

Offline bikerbob

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #4 on: 01.04. 2019 09:00 »
I have done 2 pumps on different bikes the reason why I took out the cog wear marks was because I was told that it would  help with wet sumping. In both cases is did nothing about the wet sumping that was noticeable and the same goes for any improvement in oil flow, it could have made an improvement but as I say nothing that could be noticed.

Online RDfella

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #5 on: 01.04. 2019 14:06 »
During my last foray into pump dismantling, I was getting tired of trying to thumb the pump around by its gear so, on about the fifth strip down I cut a slot in the end of the gear with a 1/16 disc in an angle grinder. The ensuing screwdriver slot makes it a lot easier when working on the pump to check its freeness and to prime it thoroughly.
'49 B31, '49 M21, '53 DOT, '58 Flash, '00 Firestorm, Weslake sprint bike.

Offline Spow11

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #6 on: 01.04. 2019 21:08 »
Good evening,
Thanks for all the replies. Tonight I was in the process of rebuilding the pump and noticed a hair line crack in the drive gear housing. So curiously pulled and twisted the housing until it broke in two.

I have images if anyone is interested. P.s. Swarfy with respect is there a recognised protocol for posting images?

So this puts in the market for a new oil pump. Apologies before asking this next question. SRM or Hepolite?

Thanks Steve 

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #7 on: 01.04. 2019 22:03 »
Steve. Welcome to the forum. As you scroll down from the main header, there is a section " Forum Info and Help". This is well worth reading, particularly about how to post your pictures, and the problems third party photo hosting can cause.

 Oil pump choices...rebuild your own or another used pump, exchange for a reconditioned one, Draganfly in Suffolk supposedly can supply some parts, reconditioned pumps or their own  Hawker brand (maybe). There is always your favourite online auction site.

 SRM are considered  the Gold Standard, indeed their price level would indicate the pumps are made of some precious metal and to a high standard.  Hepolite are a newcomer, not at all related to the old Hepworth and Grandage  brand of yesteryear, but priced slightly below the SRM pumps, for a pump with very little customer experience on this forum up to now.

 John Phelan, Sheffield Motorcycles, does pumps, but I have no idea what he has available at the moment.

 Swarfy

Offline Spow11

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #8 on: 01.04. 2019 22:39 »
Good evening Swarfy,

Offline Spow11

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #9 on: 01.04. 2019 22:40 »
I meant to say, is that better?  *smile*

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #10 on: 01.04. 2019 22:50 »
Steve...That's fine.

 Whoops, that housing looked OK earlier today.

 Never seen  that casting gone quite like that, they usually flake a bit first. Part number is 67 1388 if you go prospecting.

 Swarfy.

Online metalflake11

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #11 on: 01.04. 2019 23:42 »
Hello Spow, and welcome.

I have an S.R.M. Reconditioned pump I would part with for £30 plus postage. The cover plate has their stamp on it. It was done when they built my engine years ago, but I ended up buying one of their high flow pumps.

It's done a few thousand miles, but it pumps like a good 'un.

The only thing is, somebody has 'borrowed' the circlip from the top and you will have to use the one off yours.

Let me know!
England N.W
1960 A10
England

Offline Spow11

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #12 on: 02.04. 2019 12:07 »
Good afternoon Metalflake, I will take you up on the offer.

Thanks Steve

Online metalflake11

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #13 on: 02.04. 2019 22:38 »
OK Spow, now how do we do this?  *smile*

I presume there is a way to do it through Paypal or something?

Edit: If you PM me with your e-mail, I can send you a bill apparently. I'll parcel it up tomorrow and get an exact quote from the Post Office (tracked delivery for you.)
England N.W
1960 A10
England

Online Greybeard

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Re: oil Pump Condition
« Reply #14 on: 02.04. 2019 23:32 »
Or you can do a direct bank transfer