Author Topic: Rear brake rod  (Read 711 times)

Offline Dave c

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Rear brake rod
« on: 30.05. 2019 15:08 »
i have a 52 plunger a7 and just brought a new stainless rear brake rod, when i unpacked it the rod was straight, i thought it should be cranked over near the front, con anyone tell me which is right please? also has anyone got a spare centre stand bolt and engine plate front spacer for same model please?

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #1 on: 30.05. 2019 15:52 »
 Dave The problem here is that your purchase is a one size fits all item, the length should be correct but the makers' can't be arsed to shape it so it is down to you. The rod runs in the narrow gap between the brake backplate and the spring covers. I have seen two different types of brake levers fitted , so may be a bit of a challenge depending which one you have.  Left straight it will rub on the covers. Where you bend it depends to a degree on the position of the brake light switch, you need to ensure that if you have a traditional type pull the spring switch, the pull can be in line with the switch, here again it depends on the position, size and orientation of the spring/rod clip. Try to arrange things so that there is the least offset on the rod. If you can, experiment  first with a piece if straight wire, say a welding rod.

 The fill piece for the front mount is a bit rare, so in the short term if you are stuck make your own from a piece of tube, or carve one from an aluminium block.

  Any stand pivots you come across will be either NOS and expensive, or well worn. Again make your own from short lengths of bar, a washer and split pin each side to retain them. At least it means the bike can be used until the proper bits turn up. Who knows, you may be lucky.

 Swarfy.

Offline Dave c

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #2 on: 01.06. 2019 07:34 »
thanks for your reply swarfy, i thought it should be cranked, i will cross supplier off my list! its really well made , but as you say they cant be bothered to make it correctly. i will have to try bending it myself, but being stainless will not be easy. i will try to make an engine plate spacer, aluminium would be easier and yes bolts would be ok on the main stand. will be using side stand mostly anyway, thanks again

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #3 on: 01.06. 2019 07:45 »
Dave, Bolts for the stand need to have no thread bearing on the pivot points, they will grind away at the stand and frame, increasing the slop  that is why I suggested a piece of round bar and simple split pin retainers. If you have access to bolts with a plain shank of the right diameter and length, that will be fine.
 
 Parts diagrams show the rod to be bent, plenty of images  around to compare what it is supposed to look like.

 Swarfy.

Online Greybeard

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #4 on: 01.06. 2019 08:43 »
When I'm dressed I will take and post photos of the brake rod on my '55 Plungie.
Greybeard (Neil)
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A Distinguished Gentleman Riding his 1955 Plunger Golden Flash

Offline duTch

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #5 on: 01.06. 2019 09:31 »

 
Quote
When I'm dressed I will take and post photos of the brake rod on my '55 Plungie.

 Good idea- wouldn't want to se pics of the wrong rod...... *eek*

 Dave; Looking at mine, I can't see a slight crank should be a major exercise...run a straight edge through the tyre edge and measure the offset at each lever, a 1/4" rod shouldn't need Mr Atlas- just some moral fortitude *beer*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline RDfella

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #6 on: 01.06. 2019 10:02 »
Peple not used to working with stainless often think it is some sort of wonder metal. Strength-wise it's roughly the same as mild steel and 1/4 bar should be able to be bent easily between two hands. A vice would allow more accuracy / sharper radius but is not necessary.
'49 B31, '49 M21, '53 DOT, '58 Flash, '62 Flash special, '00 Firestorm, Weslake sprint bike.

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #7 on: 01.06. 2019 13:18 »
RD Good recommendation to use a (smooth) jaw vice to achieve a nicely controlled bend. Like you say, it has an aura of being different, and difficult to work, but actually in practice not so if a sensible approach is used.

Dave. Do not trust a side stand, that's just for when you're bostin' for a p*** and need the hedge quick.  Brake Rod... Your supplier is buying in product as and where he can get a keen wholesale price. This  mediocre offering will be distributed throughout the entire supply chain, so would have been the same from whatever source.  A more expensive product from a specialist would work straight from the pack, it is the last 5% of perfection that adds to the cost. The calibre of a supplier is how good they are when things go wrong. We curse them when stuff doesn't fit but they are only victims of market forces and if you are not happy, tell them so, otherwise they will continue to peddle the same rubbish.

duTch. There is some filth on this forum.

Swarfy.

 

Online Greybeard

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #8 on: 01.06. 2019 14:42 »
Quote
When I'm dressed I will take and post photos of the brake rod on my '55 Plungie.
Good idea- wouldn't want to se pics of the wrong rod...... *eek*
My personal Plunger dates to February 1950
Greybeard (Neil)
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A Distinguished Gentleman Riding his 1955 Plunger Golden Flash

Online Greybeard

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #9 on: 01.06. 2019 20:25 »
Here are some images of the brake rod on my bike. The offset is about 1/4" or 6mm
Greybeard (Neil)
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A Distinguished Gentleman Riding his 1955 Plunger Golden Flash

Offline Dave c

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Re: Rear brake rod
« Reply #10 on: 02.06. 2019 20:54 »
thanks for all replies, pics etc. managed to fit it today, all working well. started making the engine plate spacer and should finish it tomorrow, i didnt think they would be so hard to find, also getting the stand bolt machined to size so thats another couple of bits off the list, cheers fellas