Oil filter question for RGS

[morris]

And just having another thought. Does it have the sump plate kit with magnetic plug fitted?
As often discussed on this forum, if the magnetic plug is to close to the oil pickup it may hold the ball valve shut

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
The first question to ask is
Are the pipes connected to the filter the right way round?

All these oil filters are designed to flow gallons of oil per minute 
The low comparitive flow from the BSA pump should not pose any restriction to one

I have fitted filters to lots of different bikes without having problems
On my SR I fitted a thread adaptor so common 20mm filters fit I have been using small Peugeot/ Citroen filters as the filter head is fitted in the tool box
17 years on and lots of miles and no issues

I think the problem with lillygunny's bike will be the cork washer on the breather being too loose a fit

John

[lillygunny]

Frank thinks it could be blow by from the rings not seating yet after the rebuild. So I will reconnect the return line to the tank, change to non detergent oil, put more miles on the engine, then try again.
On this forum I read that oil filters have a rubber flap to prevent oil draining backwards, but the flap also provides forward resistance and would raise back pressure. My filter is mounted vertically and will not empty when the engine is not running, so the rubber flap is not needed. Theoretically removing the flap should result in a low back pressure filter?? There are no oil leaks when the filter is bypassed so that is why this has been a mysterious problem.
Is changing the breather cork gasket a straight forward job?  The oil lines are connected properly with excellent oil return in the tank.
Yes it does have an SRM sump plate with a magnetic plug, facing forward, and an SRM pressure release valve.
Thanks.

[chaterlea25]

Hi lillygunny,
You can check the rotary breather (cork washer) by removing the outer timing cover
The outer end of the breather top hat sleeve can be checked for end play by gripping the end of it with pliers
It should have zero end play
My method of setting how tight it should be is to see if I can rotate the sleeve by finger pressure (it is not a tight fit on the driving peg and will rotate a little ). If I can move it by finger pressure it is not tight enough, but it should rotate easily when gripped by pliers
The inner cover has to be removed to change the cork though

John

[duTch]

 

musky I bought a champion cof103101s  off ebay for the very slow going new build , does anybody use these or know if they are ok to use they are for citroen  cars apparently

 bergs, as far as I know they were a standard fitment for Noturn Commies,  when I bought mine years ago....
 lilli, a Hiflofiltro HF147 search shows that is replacement for various Yammies, so maybe a different head than current discussion...?

Musky- RF153/KN153 ? or HF ?

 If you address Johns suggestion, and find you need thicker cork, and as around my woods no choice available, I cut gasket paper and packed behind the cork   
   

[muskrat]

G'day duTch.
Yes HF153, dyslexic keyboard.  Used on most Dupussies.
Cheers

[Swarfcut]

lillygunny, I thought this thread was familiar, and read through all your previous posts. This problem, or a variation of it first appeared way back in October/November 2018. This would really profanely upset me, as it looks to have already cost you a lot in time and cash.  The problem looks to have never been resolved.

 Is the oil definitely being pumped from the breather?

  As you have a roller conversion, JulianS suggested a failure of the seal on the end feed to the crank, and this would be easy to check. But it has all the symptoms of wet sumping on start up, despite you draining the  sump to start with.  If the breather is not set up properly, then by my reckoning it will not improve by much as the motor warms up, so why the symptoms only when cold? If you can live with this inconvenience by all means put on a few careful miles, trust Frank. No improvement means back to basics.

 So all in all a big puzzle, so do a few simple checks and start by bypassing the filter to eliminate that. There are lots of bikes running filters, you could just be unlucky that your set up has a fault, so take away that factor.  Then a good check of the scavenge side... sump ball valve,  a magnetic sump plug holding it shut? adequate lift available on the ball to allow good flow, pick up pipe integrity and oil tight connection on to the crankcase, pump gasket good, oil pipes clear with no kinks or restrictions.

  The filter should be fitted between the crankcase and the rocker feed take off. Putting the filter last in line puts a restriction in the tank return, just enough to send more oil back to the rockers, and results in a build up of oil in the sump.

 Worth also checking the PRV is working fine, ball and seat in good order, spring OK.

 Swarfy.

[lillygunny]

Swarfy, thanks a million for your analysis and suggestions. I will proceed and report the results, but it will take a bit of time!
Ron

[Swarfcut]

   Just a further thought, if the motor was rebuilt by someone else. The breather passage crosses from one crankcase half to the other, and this junction must be oil and airtight, otherwise oil can enter the breather passage from the area of the camshaft trough. A post from way back had a similar problem and mentioned the retaining nut was found to not be tight and a 2 thou gap found between the halves. Any chance your build has been compromised in a similar way, and any gap closes as the cases warm up?

 Swarfy.

[RoyC]

I use Citroen 2CV filters (ebay) on my toolbox mounted set up.

[coater87]

Over a 5 month winter lay up, my bike wet sumps about a pint.

 The funny thing is with the drain plug out i only get a couple of ounces. To get the rest i have to kick the bike over.

It acts like there is a vacuum inside the motor.

 If yours wet sumps, try that next time. Maybe there is more oil in the bottom than you know and its escaping at start up through the breather?

 Lee

[berger]

I am pretty sure I mentioned this LOTS more oil after kicking it bit some time ago, mine did the same as in threw extra out of the cases when I kicked it over , this was just out of the drain plug not with the sump plate off, bit of a vacuum me thinks, nothing to worry about--- not now anyway, it doesn't wet sump.

[RDfella]

Coater87 talks of vacuum. I think the problem is too fine a gauze in the sump, causing a vacuum effect.
Some time ago my GF was pouring oil out of the breather after start up. I had already drained the sump, so wondered what on earth was wrong. So I checked the sump again. Only a few drips, but a gusher when I kicked it over. So when I drained it originally, I had assumed that after the trickle died to a few drops that it was empty. It was not. What I’d drained was the oil below the gauze. It needed a little pressure to get the oil in the crankcase above the gauze to pass through the mesh.

[duTch]

 

It acts like there is a vacuum inside the motor.

 Maybe cracking a valve cover (exhaust be easiest) would let some air in but be a pain to do each time, so maybe a screw vent in the cover might work 

[lillygunny]

It does wet sump evan with an SRM oil pump, about 8 ounces a week. I did run the bike for about 50 miles after the rebuild without the oil filter hooked up per Frank's advice and it never had any leaks. I started to worry about using 20/50 detergent oil so I hooked up the filter and the problem began, but only with a cold engine. Frank said it needed more miles because of ring blow by so I will bypass the filter and toss the oil every 50 miles. From my own research I realized that Frank put the SRM sump plate on backwards-drain to the front-so I will reverse it Friday and hope part of the problem was that the magnet was holding down the ball, causing the sump to fill up with oil. Will report outcome. Thanks for all the help and I will go through all the recommendations if it still does it without the filter in line.
Thanks,
Ron