Any Other Three Bond 1184 Gasket Maker Users?

[Peter Gee]

This subject goes on forever, but I came to use 3 Bond 1184 on a 1966 Triumph TR6C rebuild that won the Africa International Concours overall in 2018 with only one very small weep on the entire bike ( this is pretty tough to achieve IMO) and now intend trying it on notorious things like my A7SS rocker boxes.

Having  observed with envy for decades the Japanese bikes oil-tightness, I've tried this Japanese product used by the top auto/motorbike manufacturers and it's brilliant, no wonder used by many OEMs. It's gooey, sticky,thready and tacky to apply, you have to work fast and get a even coating of about 0.5mm. The only thing I know that thins it, and I keep handy, is a thimble of Acrylic thinners to dip my finger in for smoothing out.

I always leave time for it to dry out a bit and use various torquing and mating methods which I won';t bore you with if not asked.

Anyone else tried this stuff? I have found it for most applications very superior to silicone and others for most applications.  But these need to be carefully chosen and applied. Nor is it very cheap and cheerful, but I think well worth the few quid for the numerous places it can be applied. For crankcase halves, barrel-to-block and others IMO it's tough to beat.

[ironhead]

This subject goes on forever, but I came to use 3 Bond 1184 on a 1966 Triumph TR6C rebuild that won the Africa International Concours overall in 2018 with only one very small weep on the entire bike ( this is pretty tough to achieve IMO) and now intend trying it on notorious things like my A7SS rocker boxes.

Having  observed with envy for decades the Japanese bikes oil-tightness, I've tried this Japanese product used by the top auto/motorbike manufacturers and it's brilliant, no wonder used by many OEMs. It's gooey, sticky,thready and tacky to apply, you have to work fast and get a even coating of about 0.5mm. The only thing I know that thins it, and I keep handy, is a thimble of Acrylic thinners to dip my finger in for smoothing out.

I always leave time for it to dry out a bit and use various torquing and mating methods which I won';t bore you with if not asked.

Anyone else tried this stuff? I have found it for most applications very superior to silicone and others for most applications.  But these need to be carefully chosen and applied. Nor is it very cheap and cheerful, but I think well worth the few quid for the numerous places it can be applied. For crankcase halves, barrel-to-block and others IMO it's tough to beat.

I've been using it for years, especially for metal to metal contact surfaces eg; crankcase halves. Won't find its way into oil systems like some silicones can do. A certain car company over here ( when we used to make them  ) sold it as a fuel tank sealer because its oil, petrol & gas resistant.

[Joolstacho]

I'd worry about putting it on at half a mm thickness though. I'd worry that over time, small fragments of the 3-bond that have been squeezed out inside the joint might break away and block something up.
Just a thin smear is enough (as long as the mating surfaces are okay), and I too let it go off for perhaps 10-20 minutes before finally torquing up.

[ironhead]

I'd worry about putting it on at half a mm thickness though. I'd worry that over time, small fragments of the 3-bond that have been squeezed out inside the joint might break away and block something up.
Just a thin smear is enough (as long as the mating surfaces are okay), and I too let it go off for perhaps 10-20 minutes before finally torquing up.

I agree .5mm is waay too much, but it wont break off like silicone does. I did an experiment a while back, laid out a thin strip on wood, after it set I peeled it off & tried to pull it apart, I stretched a long way before it broke.
As they say on the packet " latex based"

[olev]

Don't know about threebond 1184.
I've used the grey 1104 for years.
Good stuff.
cheers

[coater87]

 Three bond, yama bond, kawi bond, all the same thing- been around forever.

 If a goober does come off in the oil, the stuff just breaks up and disappears.

 Its a little pricey for some crowds, they seem to like bathroom caulk instead.

 If you need a 5mm layer, you have many more things to worry about than oil tightness. Like how to clean off the spatula when you are done.

 Lee

[TT John]

I tend to use Loctite 510 now on all joins that do not require a gasket, and even use on places with gaskets, it isn't silicon and stays soft until it's under pressure, only needs a small amount, but quite expensive for a tube, well worth it though.

Regards TTJohn

[duTch]

 I used 3-Bond when I rebuilt my Plungo 7 years ago, but it went off in the tube so bought another to seal my Gutzzi rear Main bearing and it did same...after a chat with my local Gutzzi guy, I couldn't remember what Loctite number he said but thought it had 5's in it so 596 sounded right for Saturday arvo....
     It seemed to worked ok and easier to use than 3Bond (*no * more rear Main beaing leakage now after 20 years of leaks), but the number he uses is Loctite 515 so now have some of that too...He reckons it doesn't go off in the tube- even leaving it open for extended time.... can't remember where I've used it though

NB ** there was another potential reason for the Main bearing leak, but no need for that here....

[Shark]

Loctite 518 here but at A$45 for a tube it is not cheap but it does not go "off" in the tube and less seems to be the go in it's application. Sticks to your fingers so use a brush or paddle pop stick.

[berger]

a BMW car mechanic gave me Loctite sl 5970 about 3 years ago one day I will find out if its good stuff or if its gone off and gets the bin treatment, I forgot all about it

[coater87]

 Is all this lock-tight stuff we are talking about red in color and about as thick as syrup?

 Lee

[duTch]

 

Is all this lock-tight stuff we are talking about red in color and about as thick as syrup?....

 Yep fairly much..blood Red.....the 596 is 'Gasket Maker' and the 515 is 'Flange Sealant'

[Stevefromleicester]

I discovered threebond a few years ago and wouldnt use anything else. Its not cheap but Ive never had a joint fail and always use it for crankcase halves.