Author Topic: Fitting exhausts  (Read 549 times)

Offline dsj666

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Fitting exhausts
« on: 24.09. 2019 15:12 »
Bit of a basic question but I can't seem to find the answer!

I'm building up a 54 plunger A10 from boxes of bits and I'm not sure how the exhaust downpipes secure into the head ports.
(I don't currently have any parts for this area so can't get a feel for it or what I'm missing).

It seems the end of the pipe is plain as is the bore of the head port.
I know there are the finned clamps but how do they hold the pipe in place, they just seem to just clamp onto the outside of the pipe?

Am I missing a basic point?

Any pointers would be appreciated .

1954 A10 Plunger (in bits)

Offline JulianS

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #1 on: 24.09. 2019 15:22 »
The pipes are a push fit only.

Online Bsareg

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #2 on: 24.09. 2019 15:49 »
Finned clamps are only really decrotive  . Some say they stop the pipes blueing, others say they take heat out of the exhaust and throw it back into the head where its not wanted. They can look good though.......
C11,B40,B44 Victor,A10,RGS,M21,Rocket3,REBSA

Offline Simon59

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #3 on: 24.09. 2019 16:25 »
I have a 54 A10 plunger too, and I fitted my exhaust pipes about a month ago. You're right that they are just a push fit and that the fins simply clamp over the top of the pipes. I bought my down pipes and silencers from Armours by the way and IMHO they are a good fit at a good price.
Restored a 1954 plunger framed A10 Golden Flash - now finished!

Offline dsj666

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #4 on: 24.09. 2019 16:52 »
Ah that explains it!
I was expecting something more sophisticated than just push in!  *smil*
Other bikes I've owned have had some form of securing system.

I know what I need now. I'll take a look at Amours.

Thanks all for your feedback.

1954 A10 Plunger (in bits)

Online Greybeard

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #5 on: 24.09. 2019 17:35 »
Those repro finned clamps are not strong. Be careful to not tighten the nuts too much.

When I'm refitting my downpipes I make sure the exhaust valves are shut then scrape out the ports and blow the dust out with the airline. I clean the pipes with wire wool if necessary.
To seal the pipes when refitting, I use motor exhaust sealant paste, spread thinly on the pipe and in the port. I use a rubber hammer on the main curve to tap the pipes fully home. I found I had to pack the brackets that attached the downpipes to the engine mounting through bolt. The silencers fit just fine, although the downpipes I bought, from Fecked are long and the silencer deep-throats about five inches of pipe.
Greybeard (Neil)
1955 Golden Flash, sprung frame

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A Distinguished Gentleman Riding his 1955 Plunger Golden Flash

Offline BigJim

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #6 on: 24.09. 2019 23:04 »
You can't help yourself GB! Thanks for the advice and a smile.
Jamie,  Supporter of Distinguished Gentleman's Ride

Offline mikeb

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #7 on: 25.09. 2019 00:19 »
i do pretty much what GB does tho with less care and attention and use red (hi temp) rtv/silicon around the mating surfaces. works fine for sealing and i assume reduces vibration (of the pipes) a bit. just don't use too much rtv or you have red bits oozing out near the ports
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Online BSA_54A10

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Re: Fitting exhausts
« Reply #8 on: 25.09. 2019 10:48 »
I take the pip to my friendly exhaust man & get him to expand the end so it is slightly larger than the bore  .
Then run the bike for 5 minutes to heat & expand the head and slip the pipe in.
Yo have to work quick & I use a long pin to swing the mounting bracket around to the place where the stud would normally be.
This holds the pipe really tight with no leaks if the exhaust port is reasonably round.
Most a flogged out oval .
Bike Beesa