Problem fitting rear hub bearings

[Russ]

I'm having trouble fitting new bearings in my rear hub. Q.D crinkle hub on my 52 A10 Plunger. The new bearings are RLS 7 with 2 rubber seals.
I started by fitting bearing locking ring part # 67-6076 which goes in the brake drum side. I checked that it was seated all the way home. It is but I doubled checked anyway.
I then fitted the bearing and checked, and re-checked that it was home against the locking ring. It is. However, the bearing is sitting proud of the thread on the inside of the hub preventing the bearing locking ring, part #67-6076 from being fully screwed in. When the locking ring is fully in against the bearing it protrudes past the end of the hub by about 1 thread.
I then fitted Bearing distance tube part #67-6061 and then fitted the bearing on the other side. However, when the bearing is home against the distance tube it sits lower then the thread on the inside of the hub. This means that when the bearing locking ring on this side is fully screwed in it "bottoms out" before it comes in contact with the distance tube resulting in the tube having a small amount of sideways movement. Is this right or should the distance tube be captured between the bearings? Maybe what I have is normal but it doesn't seem right! Perhaps there is more than 1 locking ring and I have the wrong one. If it was thinner the bearing would sit further in the hub and allow the locking ring to seat home and eliminate the sideways movement of the distance tube. Both locking rings are the same part number and I have tried each one in both sides but it made no difference.
I have checked my service sheets, with no luck, and will go through my Haynes manual and Roy Bacon restoration book but as I know you all like a challenge I thought I would throw this out there for any help you can give.
Cheers Russ

[Greybeard]

I'm pretty sure I had the same problem when I did my bearings. I cannot remember what the issue was, sorry. I think someone else asked a similar question, not that long ago. Have you searched the forum?

[duTch]

 GB jumped in while I was tippy-typing

 Hiya Russ- doesn't sound right- maybe.....the bearings should be tight against the 'distance tube'/spacer... and the drive side is more important than the other which just sits where it ends up- the Swing-arm ones are ~similar but don't have a locking ring so can kinda 'float'....(until evrything is tightened)

there's a thrust  washer # 65-5884 goes in the left side behind the bearing but it'd only cause a problem if not there....maybe that's not home against the internal step....

 To be honest, I don't think it really matters how the retainer rings are (I have a feeling mine doesn't sit right either), so long as at least the drive side one holds the bearing tight, as ^^, and the 67-6060 chainwheel/sprocket stub spindle same, and the wheel is central in the frame...

 One thing that's really important is to ensure the scallops of the bearing spacer 67-6061 don't collide with the rivet heads 

[Russ]

Thanks G.B I will search the forum tomorrow. It's almost midnight here.
Thanks for your input Dutch. Yes the thrust washer is seated home and I don't have a problem with the rivet heads as mine are nice and flush.

[morris]

looks like there's a mistake.
Locking ring 67-6076 goes in the brake drum, not in the hub
In the hub, behind the bearing there's only spacer 65-5848, no lock ring
(image from Draganfly catalogue)

[Swarfcut]

Russ. Looks like you have three threaded locking rings. You only need two, and from your description the assembly of the parts is not in the correct order. The bearings and threaded locking rings are the same on both sides. The locking rings have left hand threads.

 Start by inserting the ring spacer 65-5884 into the splined end of the empty hub. This ring spacer is described as a hub bearing thrust washer. Its just like a piston ring with no gap! Drive this into the empty hub until it seats on the machined step. This locates the bearing outer race. Follow this with the bearing and add the threaded locking ring retainer. Tighten the retainer down to locate and clamp the bearing outer race against the ring.

 Turn the hub over and insert the tubular spacer, 67-6061 ("Distance tube and retainers"), followed by the other bearing and then its threaded retaining ring. Avoid overtightening this second ring, too tight puts a sideways load on the ball race, just nip it up snugly, use Loctite on these threads. The tubular spacer should end up lightly clamped between the bearing inner races. That's it.

 BSA Service Sheet 212C gives a cross section of the hub, but poor detail about re-assembly.

Plunger hub has two threaded retainers, one each side.  S/A has only one, on the splined end. Here the other bearing outer race "floats" in the hub tube, has no threaded locking ring but is retained by the design of the hub spindle sleeve, 67-6027.

 Bearings are the same for both hubs, but the tubular bearing spacer is different, so if you still have a problem could be you have a mix of mis-matched bits.

Swarfy

[duTch]

 Morris - Is a bit late here, but one of us is dyslexic ;
 
  67-6076/ 65-5885    is the locking ring                      67-6067/67-6034     goes in the chainwheel
  65-5884   is Thrush Washer   /  65-5848; can't see that one 

[morris]

 Morris - Is a bit late here, but one of us is dyslexic ;
 
  67-6076/ 65-5885    is the locking ring                      67-6067/67-6034     goes in the chainwheel
  65-5884   is Thrush Washer   /  65-5848; can't see that one 

Yeah sorry ... thick thumbs... thick brains... pick your choice.
65-5884 is the right number

[Russ]

Thanks guys for your information which was very helpful and has let to a successful outcome.
Cheers Russ