To add to Billy's excellent summary, here are a couple of hints.
With the lower yoke pinch bolt removed, force the gap open with a wedge....usual tool is a flat blade screwdriver hammered in. Undo the top nut a few turns, 1-2 mm above the top yoke will be fine, then shield the chrome finish with something solid. Now support the top yoke with your third hand and smack down with the mallet onto your nut shield. This should free the top of the stanchion from the top yoke. Remove the top nut, the fork leg complete with spring will then pass down through the bottom yoke.
The oilseal holder then simply unscrews, (in the best Haynes tradition it can be a right pain) using your new tool, leaving the top bush exposed, retained by the pesky wire circlip. With this little devil removed, the fork leg, oilseal holder and bushes then draw out of the fork slider. You may find some shims under the circlip to take up any gap between circlip and bush.
Replace the leg, less slider and spring, back into the yokes, and tighten the lower pinchbolt. This will keep the leg still to enable the lower bush nut to be undone. Slide off the bushes, the circlip and the oilseal in its holder. With the leg then removed, check it's straight by rolling on a flat surface.
Reach for a well deserved beer.
That's the easy part. The second leg will be even easier.
Have a look in the frame and forks section of the Forum as there is a lot of experience noted regarding circlips, shims and the later collapsible spacers, which overcome the problems associated with the circlip and shim design.
Apologies for unintended humour, but laugh now 'cos putting it all back together can be a struggle. Beg or borrow a broom handle, all will be revealed in the next instalment. Billy's last words ring true.
Swarfy