New member 1961 BSA A7SS Melksham UK

[Desburnett]

Its actually film two of three. If you go back to the link and search on Youtube for "Triumph Factory" you should see the other two.

Last day at work tomorrow then off for two weeks in France so putting the motor in the frame will be about three weeks off.

[Desburnett]

Back from holidays so now need to fit the motor.......Oh......Fitted wardrobes to complete first, there's another week end gone! 

[Desburnett]

Managed to replace the rear chain guard that I foolishly discarded in the late 60s. Cost more than the bike did back in 1967, come to think of it everything I have replaced cost more than the original price including the stainless fasteners!
Pics are of trial fitting which needed a little "adjustment" to line up fixing holes. Its the original stove enamel paint, seems a shame to strip it off and re paint.

[tombeau]

...How long before you remember why you "foolishly discarded it"?
Cheers,
Iain

[Desburnett]

Iain,
Yes, back in 69, thought I would change the look. Came by a set of chrome stanchions with headlight brackets and a chrome headlight shell, twin spedo and rev counter Spitfire style replaced the naff Nacelle.
Looked good then but now its got to go back to original. Planning to fit the motor this week end but I will need to enlist the assistance of some willing heavyweight to lift the motor in. I posted a link to a film where a guy in the Triumph factory is fitting complete engines, I recon its a spoof where there are no internals...or were they just more fit in those days?

Regards,

Des

[Desburnett]

Fitted the motor as planned. Its been 40 years since the motor was last in the frame so a bit of a milestone. Used some pipe lagging to protect the frame paintwork plus it comes in useful to put round the edges of the bike lift, saves cussing each time I walk into it. Got to fit the front engine plates and dynamo then can start to work on the drive side.

I have a question relating to the two fixings that hold the front section of the fully enclosed rear chain guard in position. The hole centres line up and are identical to the two holes in the inner primary chaincase and it looks as if the two bolts that locate the sliding plate in the inner chain case serve the same purpouse if they were longer. I can see the reference of the shorter bolts in the parts list but can not find a reference to any longer bolts. Any info greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Des

[rocket man]

hi Des shes looking good mate beautiful job

[trevinoz]

Des,
         You are correct in thinking that the sliding plate bolts secure the front guard.
The part number you want is 42-7520.
If you want to make them here are the dimensions.
Hex head - .600" AF x .090" thick.
Shoulder beneath head - 5/16"d x 3/32"
Shank - 1/4" x 1 11/16" with 5/8" 26 TPI thread.
I hope this helps.
Trev.

[Desburnett]

Hey Trev, that's brilliant, thanks. I thought I knew every nut and bolt on the old girl but having swapped out the fully enclosed unit for a single top guard 40 years ago I cant recall modifying the bolts.
Aim to do some more work on Sunday but there is eight hours of British Superbike, Moto Gp and F1 on the box so progress will be limited!
Thanks again.

Des

[Desburnett]

Update...

Managed an hour or so to fit the primary drive side. This unit has the four spring, five plate Triumph clutch. The corks had swolen in places so decided to fit replacements. I had to leave out the nearside footrest mounting spindle as it was bent. Made a new shaft / tube and had a stroke of luck. Question...what size and how many serrations on the end of the spindle. Measuring the OD it was a shade down on 0.750" and counting the serrations = 48. Bingo....same as Jaguar and Rover steering columns / pinions back in the 80s. A quick rummage through storage unit produced a control ring that I used to use to pass off new broaching tools with 3/4 x 48 serrations, offered it up to the footrest mount, fitted perfect. A new shaft was turned and 48 straight cut serrations milled into the end. The milling took with setting up around 1/2 hour but when I used to produce these serrations on steering colums they were cold rolled and took 3 seconds each. Its a bit tricky to remount the footrest mounting shaft in the space between frame tubes and primary drive but I did check that it will fit now I have mounted the drive side. A little bit of usless trivia.. As the footrests are mounted on serrations and are therefore "adjustable" each serration will alter the radial angle of the footrest by 7 degrees 30 Min.  Must get a life.....

[Desburnett]

Went to Shepton Mallet on the weekend and purchased final bits and bobs (mag pickups, leads, plugs, cables, fuel taps......) Soaked the new taps in fuel overnight, nice on off action when fitted to tank. Checked for leaks...all fine. 5.5 pints of oil into the oil tank, kicked engine over with plugs out to prime oil pump. Fitted new plugs, 1/2 choke, fuel on, retard ignition, tickle carb, she went on the first kick. I must admit that as the point of starting was nearing I was actually feeling nervous. Its 39 years since the motor was last run. Looking at the oil return pipe and feeling for pressure or returing oil I was relieved after what seemed a long minute return oil was being delivered to the tank. Stopped the motor as only straight pipes are fitted with no silencers, music to the ears. Still some way to go with tinware painting and electrics but a milestone achieved today.

[rocket man]

well done mate 

[muskrat]

Well done mate. It's a great feeling. Not long now till you ride off into the sunset.
Cheers

[Desburnett]

Updated update...

Went to Stafford show, thats two weekends in a row visiting bike shows so have a few jobs to do around the house to balance things up. Saw a Royal Enfield 150 Ensign same as my first bike but the £9 I let mine go for in 1967 has transformed over the years to £695. Came away with a new set of down pipes and silencers and more bits and bobs that I never knew I needed. Since starting the motor for the first time last week I have actually dismantled more bits than assembled. The Oil tank (thankfully still in primer) has a hairline crack at the seam weld next to the front frame bracket. It weeps a tiny amount of oil but needs fixing. The plan is to stop off the feed and return pipes, breather and to modify a spare filler cap by machining a hole to take a tyre valve. Inflate to 10 / 15 psi and immerse in a tank of water. If there are any leaks it will be obvious where they are. Another drawback is the paint I used on the carb drip tray is not petrol proof and has blemished. Its gloss black from Halfords sprayed over an undercoat. I have some clear spray laquer which I am testing out to see if that will do the trick. The dynamo is out at the moment to a place in Yate near Bristol. Sean the owner is very helpful and will be supplying a service exchange unit and a updated voltage control unit. One problem I noticed regarding the carb drip tray. It is fouling the manual advance cable cover on the magneto. I seem to remember a heat resistant spacer block between the carb and head but apart from not having one the studs dont appear long enough to accommodate anything more than the current gaskets, carb flange and drip tray. Despite making a new splined footrest mount for the left side, I found that the right side turns in its splines when mounted in the normal riding position. Will make a new shaft and cut splines later this week. Seem to have gone backwards over the last week.........

[chaz]

Hi Des

youve posted more on here than me.
Hopefully Shaw will have another A10 starting up soon and another close after.
both rescued form the great fire of '08....