Before splitting the cases, with just the crank assembly in the cases, see how much in and out movement "crank end float" you can detect, and mentally decide whether when running there was anything you thought was amiss. Also see how much up and down movement there is in the timing bush.
What I am trying to say is that in an ideal world the float and lift will be just a working clearance. Some play is expected, but unless you want a wallet busting experience and the engine is running fine, some wear may be considered acceptable. Hope for the best, but be prepared for the worst case. What you don't want is bits of mysterious metal particles embedded in greasy sludge in the crankcase nooks and crannies.
To split the cases, make sure all the fixing nuts are removed, the one inside the cases by the cam trough is often forgotten.
A little bit of heat from a hot air gun will soften the joint between the cases. From experience, lay the motor on its timing side, work on the joint with a craft knife, keeping movement matched each side. Keeping it equal all the way round is the secret.
Once you have a sign of movement, continue with only blunt instruments and avoid damage. Look for signs of previous abuse. Once the joint is apart, you can wiggle and lift away the drive side case, keeping it square. The drive side bearing simply slides apart.
All will be revealed, it really is far simpler than it sounds. Then turn the crank and timing case over, support firmly on the crank web and squarely lift away the timing case from the crank, trying to avoid gouging the timing bush with the relatively sharp outer edge of the crank journal. Wear on this bush can be roughly gauged by comparison of the unworn central portion where the crank oilway runs. In bad cases there is a definite step which can make removal of the timing case from the crank a bit of a juggle.
Swarfy.