Author Topic: Clutch Disassembly  (Read 3473 times)

Offline Daniel Toro (DT)

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Re: Clutch Disassembly
« Reply #15 on: 20.08. 2009 18:08 »
Well, the leak seems to be trough the cranckshaft.
It means I need dissasembly all the engine and I really don´t do this now.

Another problem, when I put the new clutch, nothing happens when press the clutch control.
Soon I realized the problem was at the CLUTCH PUSH ROD (67-3183).
My push rod have 12cm, anybody know the real size of this piece?

Another problem, I think I know why my bike used to have 2 friction plates and not 5.
Look the pictures, I put the Thick steel plate, 5 friciton and 5 steel. The last one almost doesn´t fit
and there´s no way to put the clutch spring plate...

Maybe the clutch centre and chainwheel is from another model or brand...


-= DT - Loco =-
 -= SombreroS - SP =-
1950 BSA Golden Flash A10 Plunger 650cc

Offline a10gf

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Re: Clutch Disassembly
« Reply #16 on: 20.08. 2009 20:18 »
Unless very different for '50, According to my meager knowledge it should have the domed outer cover with the bolts on the edge of the basket. See
Your basket is simply not deep enough to accommodate all plates. You may try your luck by fitting whatever there is place for, and see if it works ok.

The push rod should protrude from the gearshaft, and move further out when clutch handle is operated. If not, it's too short for some reason, or set screw adjustment at the gearbox clutchlever is way off or even missing ?

Seem to remember a small roller steel ball in conjunction with the pushrod, may remember my plunger having a 2 part pushrod with a ball in the middle. But long time ago since I've done any clutch work, someone else may have better answers.


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Offline beezalex

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Re: Clutch Disassembly
« Reply #17 on: 20.08. 2009 21:26 »
e is right, That pressure plate is from a later swingarm 6-spring clutch.  That basket isn't right either...not sure what it is.

Too many BSA's

Offline Brian

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Re: Clutch Disassembly
« Reply #18 on: 20.08. 2009 23:58 »
Right, here we go.

Here is a photo of a plunger clutch layed out. There should be one thick steel plate and four thin steels and five friction. The pressure plate is the correct one and goes against the last friction.

The thick steel is the first one to go in the basket, then a friction and a thin steel and so on. The pressure plate on the plunger models is also the last steel plate, it goes against a friction plate, not a steel.

Your basket is the correct one,these are the only ones to have a twin row chain, but at some stage in its life someone has machined off the flange that has the studs to hold the cover on. This should not be a problem, it will work ok as a wet clutch.

One thing to watch is the quality of the friction plates, sometimes the cheaper ones are thicker than the originals and can cause problems, I only use Surflex plates.

With the early plunger models without a seal the engine oil can get into the primary as you have found. This is not a problem but if your bike has sat for some time and has wet sumped then you need to check the level in the primary as well. Also only use a motorcycle specific oil that is suitable for wet clutches as a lot of car type oils have friction modifiers in them and they can cause problems with the clutch. Normally this would not be a problem but you will have a wet clutch.

Good luck.