Just wondering??? (removal of the engine)

[Minto]

On removal of the engine from the frame, the book says to remove the clutch, cylinder head, dynamo etc. Was the removal of the clutch necessary or just to make the lump a bit lighter? Or am I missing something?
Am I ok to refit it before juggling it all back into the frame? Just the clutch, I'll leave the rest til it's in the frame.
Ta muchly
Jase

adm edti: edited title to reflect topic subject, > rules #5

[Swarfcut]

 The BSA Service Sheet 205 indicates the engine unit can be removed from the frame without removing major components, other than exhaust and carb.   Fine if you want a hernia and busted knuckles. To dismantle into manageable lumps makes more sense, juggling is bad for paintwork and your health.

 My take is that the clutch/mainshaft nut is easier to undo and tighten using the rear brake to hold the chain still, box in gear, easy to play with the nut.  Barrels are easier to replace with the motor held still, safely in the frame rather than balanced on two bricks and a tin can. Putting a plunger engine and box back takes some fine hand/eye coordination, and the lighter the unit is, the easier it will be. From experience check the gearbox lower mounts screw in nice and easy first, rather than when you're down in the dirt.

  Swarfy

[Minto]

Two bricks and a tin can? That's my custom made bespoke engine stand I'll have you know!
I've had a go at cleaning all the threads up while the lump's been on the bench. Pulled about 4 tubes worth of silicone goo out in total I reckon.
Thinking about it, there's no advantage to be gained from putting the clutch on first anyway, so looks like it's juggling time.
Cheers
Jase

[AdrianJ]

When I put the current engine and frame together, I crouched down clutching the stripped down engine in my arms. I realised I was about 6” too far away and sort of hopped forward, lost my balance and fell back with the engine on top of me. Fortunately no damage apart from some minor bruises and sprocket marks.  Next time I’ll get help. At least I self repair, the engine doesn’t. Personally wouldn’t try it with the full engine.
Adrian

[muskrat]

G'day Minto.
I learnt the hard way the first time 39 years ago. Only 21 and ten foot tall & bullet proof. Tried getting it out as a lump and dropped it on my foot, breaking a few bones but didn't damage the motor. I can heal but the motor costs $$$ to fix!
Since then everything that can come off "in the frame" does. The frame is the best "engine stand".
Cheers

[Minto]

Point well made guys. Clutch on after then.
Jase

[UKlittleguns]

Picture attached of my engine fitting/ removal tool.  If the picture appears will return with more info.

[ellis]

Hi  UKlittleguns

Is that colour an original BSA mist green ?.

ELLIS

[UKlittleguns]

Hi Everybody,

It worked!  Have tried for ages to post pictures, they're worth a thousand words.  Now have a solution that works (for me anyway)!  Sorry to be abrupt on the last post but didn't want to waste time if it didn't work.

The picture shows my engine lifting frame.  Two lengths of one inch angle iron to engage the fins and one inch box section for the lifting arms.  Welded together but one lifting arm is bolted for fitting and removal.  The job took a morning to make and proved well worth the effort.

Fit to engine with one arm through the frame.  Lift and slide sideways.  Suppose I'm lucky because I have two chain hoists on a beam in the garage.  Would work just as well with a couple of trolley jacks (or two big lads on each end)!  Allows a controlled fitting of the complete engine in the frame.  Had my engine in and out two or three times on my own to get everything right and the frame made it a breeze.

And just because I can, I'm posting the picture again!

Regards to all. 

 

[RDfella]

Don’t understand people struggling putting these engines in (that hoist is a neat idea though). It’s a question of balance – put the engine beside the bike, stand astride the frame and lift it in.
I remember (many years ago) going to collect a Vauxhall car engine. No-one around to give me a hand, so I lifted it up and put it in the boot. One of my customers still recalls me carrying a boat gearbox (over 100lbs) on my shoulder across a muddy harbour and up thirty feet of steps to my van. At over 70 now I can’t do that anymore. Really struggle with a hundredweight (45kg) these days (things I could easily lift years ago now seem glued to the floor) but I had no problem recently putting the vee twin engine (complete with gearbox, clutch etc) into my A10 frame. Just protected the frame tubes with central heating pipe insulation and lifted it in. After years of working on machinery I guess you develop a knack when working by yourself. Thinking ahead is important, especially to make sure you don’t get trapped when there’s no-one around to help.

[UKlittleguns]

Hi Ellis,

I can't really answer your question.  The colour was matched by my local spray shop to the original paint that could be found on unexposed bits of the old tinwork.  If it's known as 'mint green' then you've taught me something.  If it's important I could go back and ask if they have a RAL number for reference . 

[UKlittleguns]

Hi RD,

Glad you are still super fit.  Many of us aren't and it's not simply a matter of age.  Accurate control over the process is important particularly when you're on your own.  You can stop, have a look, adjust and progress in comfort.   By doing that you don't have to protect anything with central heating pipe insulation.  If that's needed the process isn't in full control.   

[Swarfcut]

    Not wishing to rain on the parade, lifting the engine on the barrel fins carries the risk of fin damage and also sudden failure, which could be a bit awkward with a dexterous digit underneath. However, it is a really novel way of doing it in one go, so is well worth note.  Maybe the rocker box bolts offer a better means of attachment. Both Ford and Vauxhall attached lifting eyes to relatively weak 8mm manifold  studs, so a twin cylinder alloy crankcase engine should present no problem. My preference would be a simple webbing sling.

 It amazes me that professional engine builders use engine stands that support  complete units on the flywheel bolts! So the strength of threads must be up to it.  Like RD, in earlier years I could just about manage a Cavalier, Astra or Ford Crossflow single handed, without the flywheel, and there is a knack. Fully dressed, it was a definite two man job, no point being a hero.

 In an idle moment I chanced upon

https://engineproblem.com.au/engine-problem/big-end/

  Reckon Musky wrote it, contains a lot of useful stuff often overlooked when building motors.

 Swarfy.

[ellis]

Hi  UKlittleguns

No it is called Mist Green as on my Sunbeam S7 Delux.

Cheers  ELLIS.

[muskrat]

G'day UK.
I did likewise when I had to rebuild a Kawasaki 1300 six cylinder. Out and In by myself 

G'day Swarfy. I can't take credit for that. Have bookmarked it for reading later.
Cheers