Author Topic: Dry or wet clutch?  (Read 1175 times)

Offline Jules

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  • 1956 A10 s/arm Golden Flash
Dry or wet clutch?
« on: 23.05. 2020 04:45 »
I've just been browsing clutch stuff and it prompted a question about whether the clutch is supposed to be wet (run in oil) or dry (no oil)?? Its just that one old post said "do not soak new cork plates in oil", hence it must be a dry clutch, but then if the chaincase is "filled" with oil and the chain thrashing around, it must get oil on the cork, so must be a wet clutch??  *conf*

Offline Joolstacho

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #1 on: 23.05. 2020 05:05 »
Mate it's supposed to have oil in the primary cases, but it's not 'drowning' in oil. You need to have the correct amount in there, -later models have a clever overflow drain tube.
The primary chain needs lubrication, and the clutch -(from my understanding), operates in an 'oil mist'. -The 6 spring clutch and the later Triumph type 4 spring clutch may be different, but whatever, just put in the amount of oil (without friction modifiers) specified in the manual into the PCC.
BUT if your bike has a belt drive, that's different.

Offline Tomcat

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #2 on: 23.05. 2020 07:34 »
IIRC it's 225 mils in the Swing Arm primary, but 190 is enough to lube the chain without lubing the clutch. MA rated oil only.
59 Super Rocket 

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #3 on: 23.05. 2020 08:03 »
    Jules, I gave a few thoughts on this very aspect on May 17. The clutch plates are assembled dry, and on plunger bikes the clutch is enclosed by a pressed steel cover and gasket. The later S/A clutches do not have this cover.

  In the old days, lined plates could have the lining material swapped for cork, which  survived and functioned well in oil.  As such the primary case oil level wasn't too critical. Modern linings need to operate dry, so oil level needs to be just enough to dip the chain, not soak the clutch linings. Use my trick to set the oil level.

 Swarfy.

Offline ellis

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #4 on: 23.05. 2020 12:48 »
I agree with Tomcat 225 mils is too much. I only put 180 mils in my A10 swing arm and that is enough to lubricate the chain without soaking the clutch plates, And been doing that for the last 10 years.

ELLIS

Offline AdrianJ

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #5 on: 23.05. 2020 13:03 »
I’ve often wondered whether the gasket and clutch cover on a plunger A10 actually work. Wonder if the clutch runs in oil or not😀
Adrian
'53 Plunger Flash and Steib S500, ‘66 LE Velocette, ‘53? Winged Wheel


Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #6 on: 23.05. 2020 13:33 »
 
  In the old days, lined plates could have the lining material swapped for cork, which  survived and functioned well in oil.

 Swarfy.

You can do that in modern days too.  I know because I did it, with cork mat and impact adhesive. Big improvement over whatever junk Surflex line their plates with.

There are also new cork lined plates on the market for the four spring clutch.

Offline Minto

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #7 on: 23.05. 2020 16:30 »
I’ve often wondered whether the gasket and clutch cover on a plunger A10 actually work. Wonder if the clutch runs in oil or not😀
Adrian

When I recently dismantled mine, the cover and gasket were working brilliantly at keeping oil in. Bloody clutch was totally soaked in oil.
52 A10 plunger
Aprilia RSVR

Offline Peter in Aus

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Re: Dry or wet clutch?
« Reply #8 on: 24.05. 2020 00:51 »
I’ve often wondered whether the gasket and clutch cover on a plunger A10 actually work. Wonder if the clutch runs in oil or not😀
Adrian

When I recently dismantled mine, the cover and gasket were working brilliantly at keeping oil in. Bloody clutch was totally soaked in oil.

I took the cover off mine, total wast of time, keeps more oil in than out *yeah*

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA