Hate the swingarm

[Truckedup]

 Hate it because it resists removal. The damn frame is just a touch too big to fit in my shop hydraulic press..I really can't see a way to use the oxy torch on it..Used a 4 lb?? hammer on an aluminum  block trying to drive it out...Used the Porta Power ram to force the frame gussets apart slightly....Drilled a small hole to spray in penetrating oil....New spindles are available for $50 , I don't want to make a mess cutting it......
  So...just cut it?

[chaterlea25]

Hi

  So...just cut it?

Yup 

John

[KiwiGF]

Hate it because it resists removal. The damn frame is just a touch too big to fit in my shop hydraulic press..I really can't see a way to use the oxy torch on it..Used a 4 lb?? hammer on an aluminum  block trying to drive it out...Used the Porta Power ram to force the frame gussets apart slightly....Drilled a small hole to spray in penetrating oil....New spindles are available for $50 , I don't want to make a mess cutting it......
  So...just cut it?

I distorted the frame gussets trying to force it out, its much safer to use a thin cutoff wheel, and then buy a new spindle.

Unfortunately its still a rotten job getting silent blocs out of the swing arm. There are plenty of threads on this, including from me.

Getting New silent blocs that last seems to be an issue at the moment, according to some recent threads.

[Joolstacho]

Best left well alone!

[Peter in Aus]

As KiwiGF says the only way (not the only way, but the easiest) is to use a thin blade cut off wheel and 4" angle grinder, blade will just fit between the frame and swinging arm with out damaging any thing, be carful when doing it as the blade can jam and fly to bits, so use all the safety gear.
Peter

[Jules]

"if it aint broke, dont fix it", applies well to the swinging arm, IMO.....

[Swarfcut]

  Trucky    I made a simple observation on the crude design of the swing arm a few weeks ago and felt severely reprimanded for offering a different opinion.
  When newly assembled the inner tubes of the silentbloc bushes are clamped between the frame cheeks,  which is a relatively small area to provide resistance to turning.  Over time as you have found the spindle and inners seize together and whether by design or accident the inners are now well retained along the length of the spindle and resistance to rotation is now transferred more and more from the small areas on the frame cheeks to the spindle retaining flange and bolt. This seizure is why the spindle won't come out, and if the bushes still offer reasonable  resistance to turning and spring back, experience is that they can be left alone.

   Cutting through the spindle is the least violent and damaging method of removal. Then there are various tricks on the forum to remove the bushes. Worth getting new ones before you start and checking the length of the inners. Some are made a bit too long. They must meet in the middle and protrude just enough to very closely match the inner cheek distance. Too big, the arm won't fit, too small will draw the frame  innwards.

   Opinions differ on the final tightening, so I will leave you to consider the options. The two "J's " Pete and the KiWi are all on the money here with some sound advice. Thanks fellas.

 Swarfy.

[Truckedup]

  Ok, thanks....I have some  a stack of thin cutoff blades...Also thinking of fabricating  a metal or Delrin bushing arrangement .....Or not....

[edboy]

if you have a workshop convert to needle rollers.
offhand i cant remember  the sizes but worth the work as the beeza handles better as well.
for a cross over shaft inner bearing sleeves fit on the hollow shaft but you have to make an inner spacer to keep everything in place
i convert all mine. face a grease nipple downwards for easy maintenance.

[Truckedup]

 I cut the spindle, no damage to frame or swingarm...The oxy acetylene torch made quick work of rubber bushings.   Now the bushing outer sleeve is stuck fast to the swingarm tube..I welded a bead around the inside of the tube so I can use a drift to knock it out from the other side....The 20 ton hydraulic press won't  move it.....Interesting.....

[RichardL]

Sawing a couple of slots along the length should allow you deform it inwards with a drift enough to degrade the strength of the corroded adhesion.

Richard L.

[berger]

just for laughs get a sense of humor if you haven't got one yet...…..   you've melted the outer bush sleeve to the swing arm tube

[Truckedup]

 Using the torch I carefully  sliced the two outer sleeves , a long drift and hammer, they are history . There's a spacer sleeve in the middle that won't  move, probably best to leave it there..
    I'm thinking of using Delrin for bushings. It's tuff stuff used for performance  auto suspension bushings and easy to machine. Need a long spacer tube and thrust washers limit side to side play...

[Peter in Aus]

If you are very good with a oxy cutting torch you can slice the bush with with the oxy, makes easy work of it, that how I do it, not saying that I'm good with the oxy but good enough.
Peter

[Kickaha]

if you have a workshop convert to needle rollers.
offhand i cant remember  the sizes but worth the work as the beeza handles better as well.
for a cross over shaft inner bearing sleeves fit on the hollow shaft but you have to make an inner spacer to keep everything in place
i convert all mine. face a grease nipple downwards for easy maintenance.

Do the needle rollers you use fit the original ID of the swingarm ?  I'm assuming they are caged ?  what are the inner bearing sleeves from that you you use ?