Richard OK, here comes a big stone thrown into the millpond of life.
In an ideal world the crank needs enough cold float to stop it binding when hot, but just enough under running conditions to prevent it moving from side to side. Depending on source, anything from 2-5 thou cold is the figure to aim for.
Now if we consider the crank and sideways force, reaction against the oilpump worm and spindle gear is trying to push the crank towards the drive side roller bearing, which is designed to cater for this axial force. If the crank slops towards the timing side there is a nice flanged bush to catch it.
Here in the real world, my bike came with float of about 1/16" and ran perfectly fine. So in my experience, its not panic stations, just another minor irritant to keep in mind until something more critical comes along. Attending to other mechanical mishaps that need attention is a good opportunity to sort the float and clean the sludge trap in the crank, but I would be inclined to fit the new bush, get a runner, change the oil and treat the bike gently and get some use until the weather changes and you can budget and plan a major overhaul. This will not be cheap, and unless you can see any other real problem, use the bike as is for the time being.
The bad news expected was 16 thou lift on the timing bush. The good news is that you have found something that is definitely amiss.
Swarfy
Additional. Just viewed the Youtube viddys and well impressed with the machine. Even with that pesky crank float it runs fine and does not sound any different from the rest. Thanks to mugwump who set the way to solving the problem.