Author Topic: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)  (Read 623 times)

Online berger

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #15 on: 26.04. 2021 00:13 »
yes a good ball seat should be enough , I left mine for 5 months oil level still the same.

Online groily

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #16 on: 26.04. 2021 07:15 »
Yup again. Replaced mine when engine opened up for other reasons and no problem since  (only bike Ii've had here with gear oil pump without a tap and mag cut-out in fact).
Bill

Online Swarfcut

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #17 on: 26.04. 2021 09:17 »
    The other way for oil to reach the sump is a weep from the oil pump. The  drive spindle has no seal, later A65 pumps have an O ring here. Wear on the spindle housing, where the spindle runs, offers a pathway. Loose and weeping backplates, poor gaskets and mating faces plus porous castings all contribute. An expensive new pump would be expected to fix these shortcomings, but it is a pricey way to go.

  The oil pump cavity fills, oil vents to the sump through the timing bush clearance and the keyhole in the crankcase.  But a poorly performing ball valve is by far the number one suspect, cheap but awkward to replace on a standard engine. An in line tap is a simple cure, but carries the risk we all know....

  Another aspect is that on long term storage with a wet sump the crank will be bathed in oil and the bores will get a good wetting from oil spun from the flywheel. A drain plug sump plate offers a quick method of clearing the sump, but for some reason is not universally popular.

 Swarfy.

Offline RoyC

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #18 on: 26.04. 2021 09:26 »
yes a good ball seat should be enough , I left mine for 5 months oil level still the same.

I used to have no trouble when the original BSA ball was fitted but it was rusty looking so I changed it for a SRM one because it was chrome. IDIOT   *problem*
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Online Greybeard

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #19 on: 26.04. 2021 09:49 »
Am I wrong in believing the only way for the oil is through the ball\spring valve, so (teoretically...) a well seated ball with a good spring and the problem should (nearly) be a non issue .
That is my understanding.
Greybeard (Neil)
1955 Golden Flash, sprung frame
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A Distinguished Gentleman Riding his 1955 Plunger Golden Flash

Online KiwiGF

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #20 on: 26.04. 2021 12:10 »
Am I wrong in believing the only way for the oil is through the ball\spring valve, so (teoretically...) a well seated ball with a good spring and the problem should (nearly) be a non issue .
That is my understanding.

But see the prior post on that, because the ball/spring is AFTER the pump in the supply side isn’t it? So the pump itself is a source of leaks of oil to the sump?
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
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Offline fido

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #21 on: 26.04. 2021 16:41 »
   
  Another aspect is that on long term storage with a wet sump the crank will be bathed in oil and the bores will get a good wetting from oil spun from the flywheel. A drain plug sump plate offers a quick method of clearing the sump, but for some reason is not universally popular.

 Swarfy.

Yes, my A7 had been fitted with such a drain plug by the previous owner but I've not had a problem with wet sumping anyway.

Offline bikerboy

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Re: What have I done ? (starting up with full sump)
« Reply #22 on: 03.05. 2021 19:47 »
I drilled a hole in the sump and welded a 3/8 nut inside it. Then a short 3/8 bolt and a copper washer means I can drain the sump very easily. It beat spending £40 on a sump with a drain on it