Will not run

[Minto]

Hey Swarfy
I'm going to reset the timing tomorrow, and also reset the valve clearances. I did these according to the specs printed in the Haynes manual (as that's what I had in the garage) which states for GF 10 thou inlet and exhaust, on the BSA service sheets however it states inlet 10 thou and exhaust 16 thou, quite a difference.
Another difference is what it states for points gap, can't remember exactly which says what but they're different.

Edit: service sheet says 10 -12 thou, Haynes reckons 12 -15 thou.

I'm thinking I should at least get some noise out of it tomorrow. Hopefully!
Cheers
Jase

[groily]

I ran the smaller tappet clearance for 50K miles odd on mine, and it was fine. 16 is, to me, just extra noise.
Points should be 10-12 per Lucas. I always go a good 12, not less.
Neither of these things would account for any problems though, all well within the range for OK running.

[Minto]

Cheers Groily
Points gap is currently 12 thou.
I'll leave the tappets alone then.
Jase

[Swarfcut]

Don't forget the backlash in the timing gears. The old way was to  position the crank at the firing position, then turn  the cam wheel backwards, this puts the gear teeth under load as if being driven. Set the maggy with the points just breaking, then on with the drive, ATD wedged open at full advance. Cross fingers, check again.

Swarfy.

[Minto]

Reset the timing to 11/32 BEFORE TDC, also before I did this, prompted by a picture I took a month ago, I reset the points, as the heel didn't look like it was riding on the cam ring properly, it wasn't.

Anyway, she's a livin again.
Started second kick after a good tickling of the carb.
She's also no longer spitting back through the carb, and now revs quite crisply.
The only issue I'm having at the mo is the throttle is still sticking open, I'm assuming it's cable related cos if you rev it by lifting the slide with a finger it shuts off nicely again, so new cable time.
BTW, it sounds great, better than it used to for sure.
I'll put a link to a clip up tomorrow.
BIG THANKS to everyone.
Jase

[Greybeard]

Very good news 😁

[Swarfcut]

 Whatever carb you are running, clean the slide and carb body where the slide runs. Embedded grit will make the slide stick. Plunger frame is tight to the carb top, you need plain cable end (without adjusters) and a plain collar into the carb to keep the throttle cable run as straight as you can. Mid length or twist grip end adjuster type cables work best.

 Good to know it's a runner, good sparks at the right time and place are the single most important factor that separates elation from despair. Bergs would probably disagree, but I'm considering decorum on a worldwide website.....

Swarfy.

[Minto]

The slide and body are smooth enough, it's just that tight bend on the cable exiting the carb top. Already got a plain top hat at the carb end and adjuster 6" out of the throttle grip. I'll try some lube on it first and maybe try to knock up a bend to fit in the carb top.
It a funny thing, I was messing with it yesterday and it's all free and easy until you do that nipping up of the carb flange, then it goes sticky. Thought I'd sorted it yesterday but alas.
Jase

[Greybeard]

.. it's all free and easy until you do that nipping up of the carb flange, then it goes sticky. Thought I'd sorted it yesterday but alas.

Distortion of carb bodies due to overtightening is a thing.

[trevinoz]

Minto, those clearances depend on which camshaft you have.
The 0.016 is for the 334 cam.

[Minto]

.. it's all free and easy until you do that nipping up of the carb flange, then it goes sticky. Thought I'd sorted it yesterday but alas.

Distortion of carb bodies due to overtightening is a thing.

Cheers Neil
Don't think it's that, I can see the cable bending more and more as I do up the flange bolts as it's fouling the frame. If the body was distorted it would stick the same when lifted with a finger, but it returns nicely.

[Minto]

Minto, those clearances depend on which camshaft you have.
The 0.016 is for the 334 cam.

Cheers Trev, hadn't seen that info anywhere.

So is 10 thou in and ex correct for a 356 cam?

Cheers
Jase

[Peter in Aus]

Minto, those clearances depend on which camshaft you have.
The 0.016 is for the 334 cam.

And I did not know that, thanks Trev

[Joolstacho]

"

Minto, those clearances depend on which camshaft you have.
The 0.016 is for the 334 cam.

Cheers Trev, hadn't seen that info anywhere.

So is 10 thou in and ex correct for a 356 cam?

Cheers


Jase

Steel pushrods or Alloy? - different clearances required I believe.

[Minto]

The pushrods are steel, the cam is a 356. I'd never have considered any of this for just setting tappets.
Every day's a school day.
Jase